It is a little known fact that mice carry the same amount of disease as rats. Their presence in one’s dwellings shouldn’t be looked upon through Beatrix Potter-tinted glasses as in reality they are nothing more than a total menace – leaving droppings, chewing through seemingly impenetrable materials, sleeping in the most intrusive of places and keeping one awake scurrying around in the small hours.
 
From personal experience there are roughly six levels of mice removal and I have outlined and rated them below:
 
1) Humane Traps

For the squeamish amongst you can first attempt the humane method of trap where the mouse is trapped through a one-way gate to get to the bait. These traps are rarely successful, prove unsightly and require constant checking. And in the event you do catch a mouse realising it outside in all likelihood he is bound to return to the warmth and safely of your home.
 
One word of warning. It is quite possible to forget this trap and find months later a mouse left in the trap who has starved to death thus turning a humane trap into the very opposite or what was originally intended.
 
On the positive side this trap is safe for children, cats and dogs.
 
Mouse kill rating – 1/5

 
Weblink: http://www.ppcsupplies.co.uk/PS012
 
2) Poison containers

The next stage is more effective than the humane method however aside from checking to see if the poisoned bait has been nibbled at it is very hard to tell whether you have actually poisoned any mice. This is until you discover weeks later a revolting smell emanating from under your refrigerator! The poison takes a few hours to kill the mouse so for the squeamish not an ideal demise for the mouse.
 
The poison method is best-used alongside others rather than the only line of attack. Make sure you buy poison containers that are in child, cat and dog-protected containers.
 
Mouse kill rating 2/5
 
Weblink: http://www.pestfree.co.uk/rentokil-mouse-killer-box.htm
 
3) Traditional wire and wood block snap traps

These traps are effective and inexpensive. Bait with chunky peanut butter rather than cheese. Not only is this spread more attractive to mice it also adheres better to the trap plate making it harder and longer for the mouse to remove – therefore a successful kill is more likely. These traps kill the mouse almost instantly.
 
On the negative side one is required to dispose of the dead mouse which can prove to be something of a disgusting, albeit satisfying, experience. Remember to wear disposable gloves to avoid germs. You will then need to clean the trap with warm water and reset the mechanism. In addition these traps are not good if you have children, cats and dogs around. If you do make sure you set them in very inaccessible places.
 
Mouse kill rating: 4/5
 
Weblink: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/96033/Cleaning/Pest-Control/Little-Nipper-Mouse-Trap-Pack-of-4?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Cleaning-_-Little%20Nipper%20Mouse%20Trap%20Pack%20of%204
 
4) Buy a cat!

Cats are expert highly trained mice killing machines which is the very reason cats became domesticated in the first place. Ancient Egyptians befriended cats so their corn grain stores weren’t eaten by rats and mice. This proves the reason that they worshiped the cat.
 
Of course not all cats are fantastic hunters so I recommend you stick to the wilder more hardy farm cat breeds such as Maine Coons or Norwegian Forest cats and steer clear of the more precious pampered show cats who are more than likely going to expect you to catch the mouse for them!
 
Both male and female cats prove to be equally good hunters.
 
Mouse kill rating: 2-5/5
 
Weblink: http://www.battersea.org.uk/cats/index.html
 
5) Call in the professionals

In the last resort call in the man in the van. He will not only lay a variety of the traps using industrial poisons such as Phostoxin but will also locate your home’s trouble spots and proof them from future infestation.
 
This will be expensive but should give you and your family peace of mind.
 
Mouse kill rating: 5/5
 
Weblink: http://www.rentokil.co.uk/
 
Best of luck!
 
Note: At all costs avoid plug in sonic mouse repellers as these waste electricity, are expensive and have a limited range when the soundwaves are often scuppered by thick walls. Also avoid mouse glue, this product sticks the mouse to where the glue is laid and the mouse starves to death stuck to it. Often the mouse is forced to try and chew its own legs off to try and escape. So though effective it is certainly cruel and unsafe for children, cats and dogs.
 
 

  • Julie

    i have caught 6 mice in 5 day’s. in humane traps. how many more am i likely to find ?

  • Jo Cody

    I live in a park home (glorified caravan!) so have had more problems than most, especially as I have a river at the end of my garden. “Tales of the Riverbank” it is NOT!. All main cables had to be replaced (rats) and now I’ve been fighting mice for 3 or 4 months. As advised, I blocked holes with wire wool. I put down poison. I laid traps. (I disagree that they are humane – I caught one but when I picked up the trap it opened its eyes – horrific for both of us!!Trap hadn’t caught it straight on.). Will continue in my battle. Council useless. Jo Cody

  • nina

    We had no luck with the humane traps and in the end had to admit defeat we bought some snap traps and caught 6 mice from the same place under the sink.

    we got them from http://www.pestek.co.uk/t-rex-mouse-traps-twin-pack~254 here.

  • Ralph

    I had readl trouble with mice recently. I resorted to all sorts that just wouldn’t work. I tried some mouse traps and it worked perfectly!