As we’re celebrating British Food Fortnight (September 20– October 5), I give you the only good kipper recipe. Kippers whether from Craster, Whitby or Loch Fyne are unique to Britain.

Anyone can cook them, just make sure yours are the best available.

Use one large, smoky, tarry fish per person. Put up to two kippers flat in a large frying pan and pour boiling water over them to cover them. Leave them for five minutes so that they heat through. Serve them with a pat of butter on the top and toast on the side.

Perfect for traditional breakfast eaters. Personally, I like my kippers on the bone because they’re meatier and smokier than pre-packed fillets. Boning is easy with practice.