Wet walnuts are now in season, and this recipe makes the most of them. It’s a south-west French dish normally served with fois gras, which I personally avoid. So I substitute smoked duck and add a slice of walnut bread.

Starter for two
150g fine green beans,
topped and tailed
Large handful wet walnuts,
broken up
Walnut oil
Lemon juice
Pepper
Salt
200g smoked duck breast
Walnut bread

Boil the beans for about six minutes until cooked but crisp. Immediately rinse them in cold water to keep them green. When they’re still warm, pour over a dressing of walnut oil and lemon (two parts oil, one lemon juice), seasoned with pepper and minimum salt. When cold, serve with the walnuts scattered on top beside the smoked duck, accompanied by the walnut bread.