This is a recipe any man can do?even teenage boys. It takes no skill whatsoever. The secret is to buy the best kippers possible?L. Robson & Sons at Craster in Northumberland (by mail order on 01665 576223, at Waitrose or sample for breakfast on GNER trains) and Fortune’s in Whitby (22, Henrietta Street, mail order on occasion, 01947 601659).

Pick one or two good meaty kippers per person for breakfast. Sink them into a large jug and pour on boiling water until they swell and get hot (about five minutes). Take out carefully, so they don’t fall apart, and put on a warmed plate. Add a knob of butter and eat with a squeeze of lemon and plenty of hot toast and butter.