The spirited wildness of the North Yorkshire coast exerts a powerful romantic pull. Towering dunes and vertiginous cliffs come down from the land to clean, sandy beaches where the land meets the chilly, churning North Sea. The towns along this stretch — among them Whitby, Saltburn and Robin Hood’s Bay — blend the charm of fading Victoriana with the kitsch appeal of a British seaside holiday. You feel, looking across the waves to Denmark and Norway, as if you’re on the edge of the world. To stand on this coast is to sense, for a moment, what it must have been like for Dark Age Britons when Vikings made ground here a millennium and a half ago. It’s not hard to see why Bram Stoker set Dracula at Whitby.

All of which makes Saltmoore a rather curious hotel indeed, for this is a seaside hotel where you could quite happily spend a few days without ever recalling that it’s in the same postcode as the fine beach at Sandsend, a couple of miles north of Whitby. Located a few hundred yards off the main coast road, Saltmoore is tucked away amid 85 acres of hills and woodland, a hidden retreat from the world where only the occasional waft of sea spray on the breeze reminds you of where in the world you are. This is a world of plush rooms, a sensational spa and garden, and excellent dining. It’s like a miniature Yorkshire version of Shangri-La, where the reality of the world seems to disappear from your mind.

The rooms

There’s been a country house hotel on this spot for many years — it used to be called Raithwaite Hall — but the place was completely re-done before opening in Autumn 2024 as Saltmoore, with 43 charmingly decorated rooms in the original period house, and a further 29 in a newly-built annexe dubbed ‘The Beach House’.

We stayed in the latter — despite its name, there are views only of the car park in one direction, and woodland in the other — in a generously-proportioned room called the Beach House Suite. It was perfectly big enough for a family of four, with a vast bed plus a sofa-bed and a Z-bed for the kids, plus a free-standing bath in the bay window and a en-suite bathroom. The pictures here speak for themselves: it’s a beautiful space, even if the relaxing blue paint of the wood-pannelled walls is as close as you’ll get to seeing the sea.

Up in the main hotel, the rooms are even more eyecatching: the Nest Suite, with its impossibly shiny bathtub, is nominally the best room in the house, but the Orchard Suite’s terrace with outdoor bathtub is also the sort of room where you’d happily disappear for days without feeling the need to surface.

Eating and drinking

Saltmoore currently has a brasserie in the main house and a (superb) pizzeria in the Beach House, with food under the eye of executive chef Adam Maddock, who’s been poached from the Fife Arms, and oversees everything from the Yorkshire breakfast and the chic bar to the picnic baskets that you can take down to the beach.

A fine dining restaurant will be opening in the coming months, but there’s no need to put off a visit on account of the food: The Brasserie earned a special mention in the Michelin Guide a couple of months ago, with the ‘wonderfully pure Whitby crab’ earning special praise.

How they’ll keep you busy

If you’ve read this far, you’ve probably noticed that this isn’t a place where you’ll feel like you need to do any more than just relax — and to help you do so, the Sanctuary Spa is delightful, with a decently-sized indoor pool with sauna, Jacuzzi, steam room and views out of glass walls of the gardens and woodland around. It’s worth bearing in mind, both for those who have children and those who don’t, that barring a couple of hours a day this is a child-free space.

Should you be feeling more energetic, we’ll remind you (and you may need reminding) that the sea really is just a ten-minute walk down the long hotel driveway. Surfing lessons, horse riding, cycling and even a coastal running club can all be arranged by the Saltmoore team.

What else to do while you’re there

Whitby, a couple of miles to the south of the hotel, has one of the most dramatic and beautiful abbeys in the world, a towering Gothic run atop a hill with views of the town, the harbour and out to sea. Saltburn-by-Sea, a quarter of an hour or so drive to the north, is also worth a visit, if only to ride the glorious Victorian funicular railway that plies the route between the beach and the town.

And of course, from Whitby you have the entire North Yorks Moors National Park to enjoy, whether you do so on foot, by car, or riding the gorgeous steam railway. And while it’s a longer drive, the magnificent Castle Howard is absolutely one of the finest houses in the country, and an absolute must.

Who is it for

Couples — of all ages — looking for a luxurious escape where you can do as much, or as little as you like. While children are catered for, will enjoy the sandy beaches, and were doted on by staff, we’d say that adults will enjoy Saltmoore’s vibe more.

What gives it the ‘wow’ factor

Easy: the Sanctuary Spa’s pool.

The one thing we’d change

Have we mentioned the lack of sea views yet? Okay, so it’s not something that can be changed, but it’s a compromise you’ll need to be happy with.

Insider tip

One of the stations on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, Goathland, might look familiar: it’s world famous for playing the role of Hogsmead Station in the Harry Potter films.

Rooms start from £320 a night, or £650 for two people staying two nights with £50 each towards dinner. Visit the Saltmoore website for more information and to book.

The definition of gallivant is ‘go around from one place to another in the pursuit of pleasure or entertainment’. An ironic name, then, for this hotel in Rye, where pleasure and entertainment can be found, very easily, by simply staying put.

Named Small Hotel of the Year in the 2024 VisitEngland Awards and the proud recipient of a Michelin Key, The Gallivant has recently had a revamp. Namely its restaurant, Harry’s, named after the hotel’s owner, Harry Cragoe.

‘It’s almost become a restaurant with rooms,’ said Lindsay Austin, The Galliant’s head of happiness (which is how she introduced herself to us when we arrived on a sunny afternoon in August). ‘I have never met anyone that found it cheesy,’ she added, firmly, when I asked about her official job title. Lindsay looks after everyone at the hotel — guests and staff — and she will cater to every request. ‘We did go out and buy a frisbee for a guest’s dog, once,’ she offered, as an example. ‘Happiness: tick.’

The rooms

Named after the BBC’s Shipping Forecast (an idea of the owner’s), each room is an individual and thoughtfully crafted. Ours, Cromarty, was decorated in shades of teal and dark blue and came with a luxurious bath tub which was separated from the rest of the room only by a sliding door, to be utilised accordingly based on how amorously your overnight partner and you are getting on at any given time. It also featured an enormous bookcase built into the wall around the bed’s headboard. A title named The Cinnamon Bun Bookstore, a picture book that followed the history of surfing and Ovid’s Erotic Poems stood on our shelves. Something for every reader.

Eating and drinking

Although I am always a bit suspicious of restaurants named after men, Harry’s was the standout of our visit; light and airy, but still small and intimate. Vintage swimsuits were framed on the walls and among the bikinis and budgie smugglers were a dozen or so hanging plants.

Matthew Harris, the executive chef, previously of Bibendum, said the plan to relaunch was ‘to make it stand out from being a hotel restaurant’. He has always worked with primarily French and British cuisine, and Harry’s is no different. His key ingredients? ‘Lots of local produce — everything's very seasonal and fresh,’ he said. The menu itself is ‘ever evolving’, based on the the produce available at the time. ‘There can be dishes that are on there for a few weeks, and then there are dishes that are on there for a few days. It depends on what's good at the time and what the fishermen are catching.’

The catch of the day is always the most popular with diners, he said, and so, after a delicious starter of freedived grilled scallops with fennel purée, tomato, saffron and broad beans, along came an enormous piece of skate — so big was the catch, the waiter told me, that each wing had to be chopped into three. It was divine, with capers, lemon, slices of some sort of citrus fruit that I guessed to be pomelo and, à la the French, enough butter to pull an elephant through a drainpipe.

My dinner partner feasted on cured trout with pickled cucumber, beetroot, dill and mustard sauce to start (I snuck a bite, it was exceptional) and royal bream with chorizo, clams, sea aster and aioli for his main (in the name of thorough journalism, I also tried this. It was mouthwateringly good). Seafood is really where Harry’s excels. So much so that it didn’t bother us when our wine arrived after our starters. Too full for pudding, we managed to squeeze in some boozy chocolate truffles and Somerset cider brandy for pudding, before heading back to our room, utterly satisfied.

The best dinner we’ve ever had was followed, the next morning, by an outstanding breakfast spread which included local cheeses, charcuterie, smoked salmon, yogurt and fresh fruit and vegetables. A home-made ‘pick-me-up’ shot made with orange, turmeric and ginger was a lovely addition. There was also a Bloody Mary ‘recovery station’ for those who had gone too hard at the hotel bar the night before.

How they’ll keep you busy

When not gorging on the delicious local fare provided by Harry’s or relaxing in the free standing bathtub in your room, you can take a yoga class, hosted at the hotel when the weather is bad, and on the beach when the sun shines. There is also an option for ‘drinks in the dunes’, where you can order anything from the cocktail menu to take with you and a picnic blanket to the sandy beach a five minute walk away. Afterwards consider lurking thirstily in the communal space at around 5pm, as The Gallivant hosts an ‘English wine at 5’ event each day. Wood panelled floors, low lighting and cosy chairs and sofas make it a welcome spot for some sipping. Plenty of hounds are scattered around too, including in The Snug, a specific ‘no dog’ zone, where a giant schnauzer was lounging contentedly. A grand piano with a song book of The Beach Boys Greatest Hits was also a nice touch.

What else to do while you’re there

Rye itself is a brilliant day out. I recommend visiting the 12th century Church of Saint Mary — make sure to climb up its narrow bell tower to marvel at the views at the top — The George in Rye, for one of the best cocktails around, and Marino’s Fish bar for afters, to satisfy your fish-and-chips cravings.

Who is it for?

People who love good food, the coast and getting away from it all.

What gives it the wow factor

Harry’s.

The one thing we’d change

Although we loved the ‘drinks in the dunes’ experience, despite the inevitable English rain that accompanied it, we were disappointed when — after watching an almost acrobatic feat performed by one of the cocktail bartenders — we were handed canned Negronis for our coastal stroll. It didn’t make them any less delicious, however and I’d definitely return to The Gallivant, if only to sample their Sunday Roast — the first time the restaurant has ever offered one — launching in the middle of September. My mouth is beginning to water just thinking about it.

Rooms at The Gallivant start at £165 a night on a room only basis based on two sharing. Visit their website for more information and to book

Fowlescombe Farm — hidden as it is in a secluded valley — offers a complete retreat from everyday life. The only noise is birdsong and the distant bleating of sheep. The site dates back to 1537; the regenerative farm rife with history — not least the ivy-covered ruins of the former manor house, rumoured to be the inspiration for The Hound of the Baskervilles.

Caitlin Owens (whose family took over the farm in 2019 and who previously worked for the Four Seasons group) and Paul Glade (a creative director with a background in architecture) lead a team that very much feels like a family — albeit one that will cook for you and fill your glass up at any time of day or night. As part of this home-from-home hospitality, guests are encouraged to engage with daily life on the farm; collecting eggs in the morning, gathering wild garlic for dinner, and scratching Basil the dog’s ears as you enjoy an afternoon cocktail and slice of cake al fresco.

A stay at Fowlescombe is about the whole experience; all food and most activities are included in your room rate. Prior to your visit, someone from the team contacts you in order to craft a bespoke itinerary that can include baking bread, feeding the animals, taking part in a preserving session or learning how to flower press. There’s also paddleboarding and foraging and beach swims.

When you arrive, there are homemade scones before a tour with farm manager, Rosie, to see the English longhorn cattle, friendly Boer goats and Manx Loaghtan sheep. You’ll also get the chance to learn about Fowlescombe’s slow and sustainable approach — to both farming and soil management.

Meals are served inside The Refectory — a converted shed that’s now dominated by a vast communal table and open kitchen. Conversing with the chefs, selecting your own ingredients and having a go at cooking your own meal is all encouraged. Breakfast is a hearty affair — pastries, toast and homemade preserves followed by wholesome hot options. An all-day menu consisting of soup, sandwiches and no-waste croquettes can be packed up for a picnic or snaffled late at night in the comfort of your own suite. In the evenings, guests gather to indulge in a seasonal set menu that showcases Fowlescombe’s own meat and garden-grown veggies.

Make sure you tour the gardens where there’s everything from the expected (broad beans, rainbow chard) to the more unusual (kiwi fruit, chickpeas). Head gardener Shelley and her team have created prosperous polytunnels, greenhouses chock full of seedlings and beds boasting both perennial and annual produce. Large containers flush with herbs are cleverly positioned beside the kitchen, for chefs or guests to gather. A giant greenhouse (the only purpose-built building on site) plays host to yoga and flower arranging classes, evening drinks by the roaring fire, and a multitude of edible plants.

Fowlescombe intentionally refers to the farm as a ‘retreat’ rather than a traditional ‘hotel’. The idea is that guests switch off from reality during their stay, enjoy the secluded location, and experience something new. The ten unique suites scattered across the farmyard buildings are designed to allow guests to simply choose long lie-in’s and breakfast in bed if they so wish. Refined and elegant, yet cosy, they feature warm wooden furniture and stone hand-carved from the farm’s on-site quarry, all with comfy places to sit and most with huge bathtubs. Amenities include Pelegrims’ antioxidant bathing salts. And there are a few hard-to-miss architectural features, such as the vast picture window framing the view in the Valley suite and the giant, skewiff solid oak door in Long Barn.

Fowlescombe may be a fledgling addition to the UK hospitality scene, but its unique offering, picturesque location and sustainable ethos are sure to see it soar.

Room from £410 a night on a full board basis. The price includes breakfast, lunch, supper and a daily schedule of on-site activities

In today’s world, most new hotels blaze bright and are then relegated to the shadows — proving to be a flash in the plan — because, ever fickle, we turn our attention to the next new opening, and the next one, and so on… It therefore takes something — or someone — extra special to hold out attention and make a permanent mark. Enter stage right, Passalacqua, which opened in June 2022 and won Best Hotel in The World in September 2023.

I first visited four months after its opening date and was instantly struck by the sense of wholeness and permanence that typically only oozes from the grandest of Grande Dames and then some. ‘This is a hotel that Como’s seasoned summer crowds flock to,’ I wrote back then. ‘The ones who have already ticked off the Lake’s myriad Grande Dame properties and now want something a bit more personal, a bit more fun — without having to sacrifice on style or service.’

It obviously helped that the building — a creamy shuttered building, built for Count Andrea Lucini Passalacqua — has stood in place, overlooking the western shores of Lake Como in the shadow of the ever-so-slightly-skew 11th century Church of Sant’Agata since the late 18th century. But the interior refurbishment — overseen by owner Valentina de Santis (her family also owns the nearby Grand Hotel Tremezzo) in place of a headline-making interior designer who would’ve likely wanted to put their own specific stamp on it all — was gargantuan.

One space was left untouched and only unveiled until last year. The spa. Built into a series of tunnels that snake their way underneath the gardens, from the main house to the pontoon that hovers atop onyx water. The tunnels were likely constructed for the transportation of foodstuffs and other household goods that had floated over from Como city (better that than navigate the narrow and winding roads), but it is more fun to imagine, say multiple members of staff, that star-crossed lovers, looking for somewhere private, embraced in their subterranean depths.

When I first started writing about travel — my first, forgettable piece was probably some eight years ago — the majority of hotel spas used Elemis products. Occasionally, very occasionally, an obscure Swiss medical brand managed to slip into the treatment rooms. And then something happened. It became cool — and press release worthy — to partner with a skin- and body-care brand that customers likely saw on the shelves of their local Space NK or even already used at home: Barbara Sturm, Tata Harper, Natura Bissé, Guerlain… Better yet was partnering with a rarely- or never-used brand.

Passalacqua went one-step further and plumped for Seed to Skin — an utterly unique range of products manufactured about 250 miles south, inside another whimsically romantic hotel called Borgo Santo Pietro. The Tuscan hotel’s skincare laboratory, in spitting distance of the expansive kitchen garden and candy-coloured chicken coops, is a sort of gleaming, modern-day witch’s potion-brewing station. Bottles of goodness — and they really are good; slather on the Miracle Midnight oil and then come back to me — emerge in pleasingly-hefty green glass bottles with brushed silver stoppers. The logo, three conjoined pilgrim’s staffs, is a sort of homage to the site’s history as a lazzaretto, or healing stopover, for pilgrim’s journeying on the 2,000km (about 1,242 miles) Via Francigena between Canterbury and Rome.

In 2001, Claus Thottrup Claus and Jeanette Thottrup purchased Borgo Santo Pietro, planning to live in it full time. When this proved impossible, they set about creating a village-style hotel, starting with only a few rooms. The rest followed piece by piece. Around the same time, the couple discovered that they couldn’t conceive a much-longed for child. Living mostly in London at the time, they discussed giving up their Danish passports and applying for English citizenship in order to adopt, before deciding to work with a herbalist and acupuncturist, adopt alkaline diets and subject themselves to a myriad other tests. ‘I was 39 when I got pregnant,’ says Jeanette, ‘and the funny thing was, they [the doctors] said: “Oh, you know, now your eggs look like they did when you were 23".' (When their son was born, Claus built his wife the pond in Pietro’s gardens.) Intrigued, she took a course in natural medicine, ‘and that was sort of the start of the idea of Seed to Skin.’

‘I didn't even have skincare in mind at that time,’ she continues, ‘but what I was really fascinated about was the soil health… the integrity of the soil.’ The state of Earth’s soil — which contains more than half of all animals and is integral to our survival — was not a widely-discussed topic in the early 2000s, so Jeanette was, in many ways, ahead of the curve. Nowadays, more of us understand the consequences of not looking after what we have — both on food quality and security. ‘Intensive agriculture, with its tillage and use of artificial fertilisers and chemicals, which deplete rather than feed the soil, have left the UN declaring one-third of the globe’s soils to be degraded,’ wrote Sarah Langford in the June 12, 2024, issue of Country Life. ‘In a world that grows 95% of its food in soil, this degradation undermines our very existence.’

The Seed to Skin products are not designed to be consumed — although I’d put money on the fact that they’re likely of better quality than some of the ultra-processed food currently available on supermarket shelves — but they are made with an abundance of herbs and applied to delicate, porous skin. ‘It became sort of clear to me that we needed something just different,’ says Jeanette, ‘so we produce everything on the estate, about 300-acres-worth, and we have our own herb processing plant.’ Handily, the soil around Pietro is very mineral rich — something that’s evident in Seed to Skin’s regular toxicity reports that are conducted on every raw ingredient that they use. The quality is maintained with the help of 300 sheep and a lot of mushroom manure. ‘You need your soil to be certain parts bacteria and certain part funghi in order to be great soil,’ explains Jeanette. ‘If you have bad soil, you get bad products.’ Unsurprisingly, Seed to Skin is certified organic and it employs plenty of biodynamic farming principles (a holistic agricultural approach that takes into account the celestial cycles, as seen from Earth).

The range, which is stocked in Liberty London, is also available at Grand Hotel Son Net, an equally elegant property on the island of Mallorca, Spain. And an enhanced, larger-scale spa is planned for Borgo Santo Pietro — likely opening next year (2026). Back underground at Passalacqua, the airy, wicker-panelled treatment rooms are beautifully juxtaposed by a Scandinavian-inspired, vaulted rock-hwen steam, sauna and cold shower area. At the end of a 50metre tunnel, illuminated by lattice-cut lanterns, there’s an indoor pool, cleverly engineered to fit inside a green glass-house that looks out over terraced gardens. On sun-less days, the gentle, rhythmic pattering of rain on the glass roof, it is one of the most peaceful places on Earth.

Rooms at Passalacqua start from €1,210 (about £1,030)

The Royal Scotsman, A Belmond Train, and Dior have announced a travelling wellness retreat, hosted by two of the French maison’s ‘wellness experts’, Bryony Deery and Rose Ferguson.

The exclusive four-day, three-night trip — which departs Edinburgh’s Waverley Station and traces a path up Scotland’s eastern coastline — includes movement and breathwork classes, spa treatments and healthy menus specially curated for the experience.

Although there’s ample opportunity to marvel at giant, cauldron-like lochs and ancient woodland from the train’s observation carriage, guests will be encouraged to actually immerse themselves in the landscape — by participating in activities such as wild swimming and forest bathing in an area of the country once described as ‘one of the glories of wild Scotland’, by Sir David Attenborough. There will also be the chance to observe seals on a scenic boat ride.

Day one of the holistic adventure comprises a wholesome afternoon tea, one of Dior’s signature treatments, pre-dinner drinks and a healthy feast planned out by Ferguson. On day two, there’s the option to head out on a private hike; on day three, sit down to a locally-foraged lunch.

The news follows hot on the heels — or tracks — of the launch of the Royal Scotsman's Dior spa.

The Royal Scotsman x Dior Highland Retreat costs from £14,000 per person which includes excursions, meals and alcoholic beverages. Click here to see the full itinerary and to book.

One of the joys of going away for a weekend in the country is that familiar moment as you get closer and closer to your destination of not having the slightest clue where you are.

No, it’s not that I love the mild stress of worrying that the SatNav is playing up — and in the past I’ve ended up stuck in fields in Northumberland, and sandwiched between tractors on country lanes in Devon. Instead it’s that sequence of thoughts (‘Can this be right?’, ‘Have we gone too far?’, ‘Is that even a road?’) which builds up the tension, all of which dissipates with a magnificent rush of relief when you arrive somewhere really, truly splendid.

I don’t think I’ve ever experienced that feeling more acutely than I did when we found Falcon Farmhouse, hopped out of the car, and walked around the back to the pool, set in an incredible hillside spot overlooking a gorgeous Staffordshire valley.

Really, truly splendid indeed. I’m not sure what I could write at this point that would tell you more than these pictures; the only thing I can think of is that as well as this glorious view, there are a couple of fields right next door, one with some chatty sheep, and one with some very friendly horses who love to come up and say hello.

As nice as the pool and patio are, they’re not much good for activities such as sleeping and eating, but the rest of the Falcon Farmhouse has that covered. It sleeps up to eight people (six adults and two kids) in what are effectively three-and-a-half bedrooms: two upstairs, one downstairs with an adjoining kids’ room with bunks. It’s the ideal set-up for keeping the little ones close but not too close at night.

While you could easily come here for a romantic break, this really does feel like a place to come with kids, or more likely as a multi-generational break. There are a couple of sitting rooms — more snugs than big living areas — and a well-equipped kitchen with a huge table for dinners. It’s a converted barn rather than a huge country house, but it’s simple and cosy.

Simple and cosy, that is, until you find the home cinema that’s tucked away from the main building in the huge pool house. It’s so good — so good — that you could quite always try to recoup some of the hefty room rate (which tops £1,500 a night in high season) by screening films and selling tickets. Proper cinema-style banked seating, a whopping sound system and a screen measured in yards rather than inches are the order of the day.

Never have episodes of Bluey looked so good. The farmhouse itself is lovely, but it’s the pool and cinema that really takes the Falcon Farmhouse up a notch, and turns a nice break into something very memorable.

Falcon Farmhouse rates run from £700 a night to £1,550 a night, depending on season. See more at thetawny.co.uk/stay/falcon-farmhouse.

Eating and drinking

The Falcon is a self-catering farmhouse, and you could do everything for yourself. But it’s a place with a few tricks up its sleeve: while it has the feel of a remote country retreat, it’s technically part of The Tawny, one of the best-known country hotels in this neck of the woods. It's tucked away, discreet and charming, and the sort of place where you’re very likely to see Premier League footballers and TV actresses pootling round on bicycles with their kids in tow. As such has some very fine eating and drinking options — in particular the Plumicorn restaurant, whose menu mixes ambitious fine dining with crowd-pleasing classics. It’s too far to walk, but The Tawny will happily pick you up in a Land Rover, and drive you back to Falcon Farmhouse afterwards.

If you'd rather eat in the farmhouse but not worry about spending hours in the kitchen, the hotel kitchen have a series of different hampers that they’ll prepare, from lasagnes and cinema snacks to a pre-prepped Sunday roast with all the trimmings.

Even better, though, is the other option: one of The Tawny’s chefs will come out to the Farmhouse, together with a waitperson, to look after you for the evening, preparing a banquet. Everything from seven-course tasting menu to locally-sourced feasts and barbecues are options. It's not cheap (expect to pay £50 a head) but it's pretty special. We had the barbecue, which turned out to be a sensational spread prepared by the Plumicorn’s head chef Andrew Watts.

How else they’ll keep you busy

The Falcon Farmhouse itself is ringed by farmland rather than open country for walking or running, but The Tawny sits on a beautifully-landscaped 70 acre estate, and backs on to the Consall Valley Nature Reserve.

There’s a folly trail that you can enjoy whether walking, running or on two wheels (it’s free to borrow a bicycle), while there’s also a large outdoor pool and a games room. You can also book spa treatments which take place in a thatched cottage on the estate.

What else to do while you’re there

Stoke-on-Trent’s heritage as one of England’s most important industrial towns hasn’t made it a place of great beauty, but there’s plenty to do. The city itself is the site of Emma Bridgewater’s factory, and it has the obligatory tea room, factory shop and ‘paint your own teapot’ experience. Denby's factory and the World of Wedgewood are also not far away if you really want to dive in to why this part of the world is referred to as The Potteries.

Poole’s Cavern (once explored by Mary, Queen of Scots, and on the tourist trail ever since then) and the telescope at Jodrell Bank are also within reach, and the Churney Vallet steam railway has a station within a couple of minutes of Falcon Farmhouse.

All that said… if you’re here with children of any age, don’t try to resist the siren call of Alton Towers, a short drive across Staffordshire. For decades it’s been one of Britain’s great theme parks, and it’s mix of white-knuckle rides and genuinely beautiful gardens, set against the fine architecture of the original Towers themselves. We loved it every bit as much as that home cinema.

Step back 2,500 years and the dominant civilisation on earth was Sparta on the Laconia plain beneath the great Taygetus mountain range. The military-based society never lost a land battle until its ultimate defeat by Thebes at Leuctra and remains famous for its austerity and spartan lifestyle. There is little to see of Ancient Greece in modern-day Sparta—the stonework was recycled into a later part of this area’s extraordinary story.

The Spartan society didn’t feel the need to build walls around the city, but the way of life did give us the laconic phrase. When Alexander the Great’s father, Philip II, had conquered much of southern Greece, his attention turned to attacking Sparta, sending the message: ‘If I invade Laconia, I shall turn you out’, to which the Spartans replied with a single word: ‘If.’

I have visited Greece on many occasions to stay on the islands that dot the Aegean Sea, but I found the mainland, and the Peloponnese in particular, is less visited, much to my joy. It has a truly authentic feel to it: lives are still lived around the rhythms of Nature, olives, wine and figs. There are still echoes of the Bronze Age (what is believed to be the city of Menelaus and his wife, Helen, is being carefully excavated close to Sparta) and much more of the Byzantium Empire, to where the local Spartan stone was recycled.

We were staying at Euphoria, which is best described as a superb spa and accompanying hotel carefully built to echo the ancient glories around it. The space sits beneath the edge of the pine-clad mountain and above the delightful town of Mystras; Sparta just down the road.

Incredibly, it is next to the L -shaped Palace of Mystras, a World Heritage Site with its surrounding village set beneath a Frankish castle. Imagine a hotel being built beside Stonehenge.

The Euphoria spa (main image and above) is world class. It is the brainchild of Marina Efraimoglou, the first woman to run a major bank in Greece, who, having beaten cancer on two occasions, was inspired by her final treatment to found a retreat that combined scientific innovation and healing modalities, where people could live a more holistic life.

The spectacular architecture of the site includes a sphere pool reminiscent of Hagia Sophia church and a salt room, as well as the latest technology, including a human regenerator that did for me exactly what it says on the tin. For 40 minutes, I lay on a special bed with my wrists and ankles attached to the machine. For a while, it felt as if nothing was happening, but then parts of my body began to gently fizz. It was like lying on a cloud of bubbles, the ones that appear when a can of Coca-Cola is first poured out. The science is that it harnesses the power of cold atmospheric plasma to promote wellness.

Mystras, the ‘wonder of the Morea’, was built as an amphitheatre around the Frank fortress (the Franks at one time fought for the Romans, which is how we get the word ‘franchise’), erected in 1249 by the Prince of Achaia, William of Villehardouin. Reconquered by the Byzantines, then occupied by the Turks and the Venetians, the city was abandoned in 1832, leaving only the breathtaking medieval ruins, in which you can see everything from extraordinary art in the churches and loos in the ruined houses to fauna, including wild asparagus and giant fennel.

The latter is used for walking sticks and offered the means for Prometheus to steal the gods’ fire and the Venetians to take the silk worm from the Chinese, by hiding the bounty inside the hollow stems.

There is a lot on offer besides the excellent treatments and I particularly enjoyed wandering around the village, where persimmons, figs and lemons grew in every garden, before stopping for a glass of thick yellow wine at the wonderful Mystras Inn, a tavern for the ages. To be laconic: go.

Rooms from £281 a night, including breakfast; a two-day Euphoria Escape for couples costs from £599. Visit www.euphoriaretreat.com for more information and to book.

It’s a sign of the times (and the great wellness revolution) that today, nightclubs are no longer the place to be seen. Instead, securing spots at spas gives the most kudos to the in-crowd, who have replaced cool bars with cold plunge pools. And SHA, the most famous of these destinations, is more in demand than 5 Hertford Street on a Saturday night.

‘Wellness’ has rightly gotten a bad name for itself, promoting over consumption by marketing endless products to people, chiefly on social media, that they don’t need and cannot afford. The promised results, too, leave plenty to be decided, but what about the things that actually do help, and the professionals who do make a difference. Disclaimer: I’m a former journalist and all of my old colleagues working in the beauty space agree on one thing. SHA is the ‘place to go’, perfectly balancing science and some slightly more off-beat techniques…

SHA was founded ten years ago after its founder Alfredo Bataller Parietti recovered from colon cancer by following a diet that centred on vegetables and omitted red meat, alcohol and caffeine. 

Now, people travel from all over the world to SHA to treat everything from serious illness, to weight loss to addiction — or just to have a detox from everyday life. With more than 70,000 guests and counting, they must be doing something right.

I’m a healthy person (I think?): I try to eat a balanced diet and take regular exercise, but with a nine month old baby and a business to run, even the most serene of people could be forgiven for feeling a little out of sorts. I decided I needed a reboot. A time out. I decided to go for the Rebalance program. Four days of treatments and tests designed to leave me feeling more balanced? Sign me up.

The hotel itself sits below the mountains of the Sierra Helada National Park and overlooks the bay of Altea. There are views of the Mediterranean, mountain air, and a minimal Modernist design – you’re feeling zen already just reading this, aren’t you?

Despite the fact that there are 93 suites and 11 residences, save for mealtimes, you can often feel like you are the only one there. Everything is contemporary and clean which all adds to the clinic feel — hushed tones and staff in white coats are de-rigueur. Picture the clinic in James Bond’s Spectre in which Dr Swann appears, but picture it in the Spanish Hills. That’s SHA. If you were to critique the rooms you might call them clinical, but with a deliciously comfortable bed, walk-in wardrobe and sea views, it's hard to complain.

The morning of my arrival, I was invited to the Medical Clinic — a spacious, efficiently run floor with a rabbit-warren of testing and treatment rooms — for examinations including blood tests, a weigh-in and more, to test things like BMI, blood pressure and bone density; then asked to do a series of computer games to test cognitive function. 

These days, we are all constantly pushed to monitor everything. Our sleep; our blood sugar levels; our scale health. There are Whoops and Oura rings and Apple watches — no wonder we’re all anxious. And how accurate are these things anyway? It was a relief to be surrounded by proper medical monitoring processes, like an MOT on crack. Think actual doctors, taking accurate medical readings on world class machinery, churning out clear and helpful reporting.

After a consultation with a doctor, I was given a thorough 'suggested' schedule for each day ('suggested', as some treatments and activities are at additional cost, so can be taken out to fit a budget), supplements to take, and a meal plan. This is all tailored to you and your needs. 

For my rebalancing program I was focused on a more broad end-point, essentially lowering stress levels and balancing emotions, and that meant a mixture of physical exercise and slightly more woo-woo treatments.

Private yoga, private pilates and private personal training in the gym, alongside the nutritional detox, all provided the perfect foundations for a refresh, while the four to five treatments you have a day take more of a medical approach. There is an overarching theme of responsibility. Self Ownership. Whether you are on a physical recovery journey or a burnt-out CEO, SHA can only lead you to the proverbial water, they can’t make you drink.

A typical day might start with a hike, and a miso soup breakfast, which is important to kick start your digestion. A trip back to the Medical Clinic usually follows breakfast, for a transcranial stimulation, detoxifying body wrap or salt scrub, reflexology, cryotherapy or ice bath.

Ozone therapy is particularly popular, due to its energising properties: literally removing some blood, pumping it with oxygen and syphoning it back into you. No day is the same, such is the breadth of offerings. 

While I am a confirmed acupuncture obsessive, I can be a little sceptical around other wellness practices. However, my favourite part of the trip was the Integrated Bioenergy Assessment — essentially an energy balance test. A Dr Rubio attached an electric wire with a little magnet on the end to my wrist so that they could ‘interpret my electromagnetic field’ (I refer back to my scepticism). 

However, the results shared feel so impressively personal and accurate that I find it hard to remain a disbeliever. I was struggling with post-pregnancy hormone imbalance (tears, a lot of them) which was causing heart and gall bladder (a key stress indicator) imbalances. It all showed up on a chart, sort of like a heart monitor. The treatment is based on the Ancient Chinese principle that different organs have different physical and emotional functions. The results are then sent to your acupuncture therapist who, that afternoon, will work on the areas in need. 

The food — and I’m going to surprise you here — is amazingly good. Truly delicious. With three levels of calories to choose from I chose the heaviest one (I was not there to lose weight; one thing at a time guys) and no one was as shocked as me that macrobiotic food (essentially a diet of wholegrains, vegetables and beans) can be so delicious and filling. 

Did I fancy a wine in the evening? Yes. And could I have killed for a coffee in the morning? Sure, but really, once you lean in, I found myself quite content with the cleanse when the options in front of me were as good as Pad Thai and delicious, creamy rice pudding. (Sugar and dairy free!)

With any detox, your body will react along the way: the lack of sugar, alcohol, wheat, and dairy can be a shock to the system. Headaches and initial lethargy is common, however, there is also an abundance of downtime to rest, read, sunbathe, sleep and allow your body to reset and recuperate. Because that’s ultimately what you’re there for; a luxury holiday with a specific purpose.

‘Why are you here?’ Is a question you get asked a lot at SHA. It’s what I was wondering myself as I slyly looked round the dining room. Why are they all here? Looking for everlasting life? One of SHA’s key principles is how to live better, longer. Dan Buettner, the American explorer and writer identified four ‘secrets’ to living longer: Outlook (faith, purpose), Eat Wisely (plant based, moderation), Connect (Family first, partnership) and Move Naturally (Walking, engaging with the outside). Seems simple right? Perhaps. But for most of us, a little reminder of this can go a long way.

And that’s the best thing about SHA: it can be as woo-woo and earnest or brain-numbing and luxurious as you wish. Nothing is rammed down your throat, but the option to drink the Kool Aid (or in this case, miso soup) is there if you so wish. 

I’d say you’d be silly not to give into some of the woo-woo-ness, because you could well be missing out on something quite magical, but want to skip the breathwork and simply indulge in the healthy food and five star surroundings for the entirety of your visit? Be their guest. 

A four-day Rebalance and Energise Programme starts from €2,300 a person. Visit www.shawellness.com/en/ for more information and to book.

Pip Durell is the founder of WNU.

There’s a touch of Father Christmas about the team at greenhouse manufacturer Alitex. They can make your every wish come true — as long as it has to do with garden buildings.

‘We can build anything,’ says brand director Nelly Hall. ‘The majority of our greenhouses are bespoke to meet your every requirement, whether it’s a lean-to, a hexagon, internal partitions where you can grow vegetables, or a place to escape and soak up the views.’

As an example, she mentions a lean-to greenhouse the company built for a keen horticulturalist and professional florist.

She wanted it all, explains Mrs Hall: a simple Victorian design made of aluminium (for ease of maintenance) and powder-coated in a colour that would be sympathetic to its setting; an extended double lobby to take in the garden views, but also enjoy a festive atmosphere at Christmas; a warmer, partitioned area in which seeds could germinate and tender plants grow sheltered; a reservoir to store rainwater; and a wood burner with its chimney, to mention only a few criteria.

It may sound like a tall order, but Alitex pulled it off brilliantly — so well, in fact, that the greenhouse was on show at the Chelsea Flower Show in 2019. A similar Alitex project also turned heads at this year’s Chelsea: a traditional greenhouse in elegant wood sage colour, complete with space for citrusfruit trees and a sophisticated dining area in collaboration with THE PIG hotels.

The company can draw on decades of expertise, having been founded more than 70 years ago, but it doesn’t merely rest on its laurels. It keeps investing in new ideas, materials and — perhaps most importantly — people: all members of staff share a genuine passion for horticulture. This not only allows Alitex to understand the needs of every client and build the perfect greenhouse for them, but also to advise them on crucial matters, such as the best positioning to make the most of sunshine and ensure appropriate ventilation.

It’s also the reason Alitex is trusted by some of the world’s greatest gardens, whether the National Trust, RHS Wisley or Kew Gardens, for which the company built a new glasshouse in 2017. Alitex supports its customers every step of the way, including offering a planning-permission application service if required.

Perfection, however, can’t be rushed, which is why now — even though it’s cold and dark outside and the garden is bare — is the right time to start thinking about your new greenhouse. This will give customers enough time to consider what they really want, discuss it with Alitex, refine their vision and ensure their new, beautiful, bespoke building is ready for the growing season. With Christmas coming, why not give yourself a present you can enjoy for years to come?

For further information, please visit www.alitex.co.uk, telephone 01730 826900 or request an Alitex brochure.

There are good moments in life and there are great moments in life. An example of a good moment might be when you have that first beer on a Friday after work, or when you finally get around to defrosting the freezer, or when your cat falls asleep on your lap. A great moment might be the birth of your first child, or getting married, or sitting in a surreal landscape, enjoying a glass of whisky watching a volcano erupt while the Northern Lights dance overhead. I’ve done one of these things, and I’ve never been married and don’t have kids.

If you tell people that you are going, or have been, to Iceland, one of the first questions you get asked is did you go, or are you going, to the Blue Lagoon. The turquoise geothermal spa, a short 20-minute drive from Keflavík International Airport, has long been one of the country’s most visited attractions. Bask in the warm waters, let the silica restore your skin and absolve you of your sins. Buy a nice face-cream on the way out.

What people won’t ask you, because they have not tasted pure ecstasy and have not felt true inner peace, is have you visited The Retreat? I have tasted ecstasy and felt peace. You should too.

Ecstasy and peace comes wrapped in a grey concrete box in the middle of a lava field. There are no trees, there are few vistas, and only the occasional mountain. Steam rises from a nearby power plant, the industrial buildings and towers which suit a landscape that feels extra-terrestrial. Elon Musk wants to put people on Mars, which is stupid for many reasons. You need not bother getting in a starship built by Silicon Valley’s Willy Wonka: another world is right here, in Iceland.

In the middle of this jagged landscape, a world of endless blue slowly reveals itself, lightly masked by wisps of vapour rising towards the sky. On the edge of it all is The Retreat, a Modernist/Brutalist construction that somehow both imposes itself on the landscape and feels a part of it. You’ll only find it if you know it’s there, but once you know it’s there, it grabs your attention.

The blue waters surround it on all sides, the building seemingly growing out of this new earth, much like the volcanoes that surround it on the Reykjanes Peninsula. It is the only hotel I have been to that has an active volcanic steam vent (known as a fumarole) by reception. It is quite the entrance.

Inside, the property is a mix of that Brutalist feel with elegant luxury. Large windows and double-height spaces create a cavern of light, almost cathedral-like, in which to appreciate this lunar landscape. Someone thought it would be a good idea to create a five-star luxury hotel and make it seem like it was carved out of the earth. I think it was a pretty good idea, too.

But The Retreat is not just a hotel. It is also a spa and the two are interminably linked. That much is apparent almost immediately upon entry, where you will see other guests padding around in bathrobes, having just spent the day relaxing and floating around The Retreat Lagoon, the hotel’s private slice of silica-rich water. Once you’ve dropped off your bags in your room, that’s exactly where you should head.

The waterways almost remind me of a lazy river; you start off near the hotel and slowly move your way across the lagoon that winds through the lava fields, until you are almost totally alone, with no reference point to where you might be, apart from the rocks, the water and the steam. It is heaven. Every once in a while, a staff member might bob past, offering some silica to put on your face, which you can then wash off in the water. You will come out looking and feeling younger. It is magic.

But there is more. Throughout the spa at The Retreat, there are saunas, there are rooms for quiet reflection, there are plunge pools, and a steam cave. But it’s all leading up to the grand finale — The Ritual. It is here that you will experience the trinity of what The Lagoon at the Retreat has to offer, a self-applied and guided treatment combining silica, algae and minerals.

Once that’s all done, and you really shouldn’t rush, it’s time to enjoy the hotel itself. Eat a nice lunch at the Spa Restaurant in your robe and relax after a hard day’s self care. Or head back to your room, and enjoy the astoundingly well designed spaces that you will spend the night in. Gaze out on the moss-covered lava fields from your balcony, or even from your bathtub. Stock up on more skincare that’s provided in your room, or enjoy the free minibar. Or just have a nap in the supremely comfortable bed. 

From there, dinner is served in either the cavernous Lava Restaurant, where you’ll find Icelandic culinary classics cooked to perfection, with a sumptuous view over the Blue Lagoon itself or, if you’re feeling adventurous, try the seven-course set menu at Moss, the in-house Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Agnar 'Aggi' Sverrisson, with food focused around some of Iceland’s most prolific produce — lamb, rutabaga, Skyr yoghurt and Atlantic fish.

Then, it’s time to head to the library to relax, take in a board game, have a nightcap, read a book and unwind. And if you tell the staff that you would like to see the Northern Lights, they will make sure to keep an eye out for you (and even call you if you’re asleep). 

After a day and a night at The Retreat, you will feel like you’ve been anywhere else other than planet earth. But the good news is that it’s a minimum two-night stay, meaning that the next morning, after breakfast, you get to do it all again. Lots of hotels promise to take you somewhere else, but The Retreat executes that idea with aplomb. You won’t have seen, and you won’t have been, anywhere like it.

A Moss Junior Suite / Lava View Junior Suite starts from 230,000 ISK (about £1,270 per night). The minimum stay is two nights.

À la carte breakfast, Blue Lagoon Skin Care amenities, in-room minibar with soft drinks, beer and wine, Wi-Fi, access to the fitness centre, daily morning yoga, guided group hikes, afternoon coffee and Icelandic pastries are all included, as is access to the Retreat Spa and Blue Lagoon Ritual, the Retreat Lagoon and the Blue Lagoon.

The scent of late summer clings to Coworth Park, a wall of lavender flanking the path to the rose garden, where a few delicate blooms defy the mid-October morning frost. The leaves of the giant oaks that pepper the lakeside meadow remain stubbornly green and there’s not a hint of yellow in the avenues of lime trees that lead back to the hotel, even as the azaleas blush red and the spiky shells of chestnut trees begin to split, fat with shiny fruit. I wouldn’t put it past the Dorchester Collection, whose Berkshire outpost this is, to have negotiated with Zeus, Skadi, or whichever god commands the weather in other pantheons to keep the colours of summer going until the grounds become ablaze with autumn’s glory. 

If the devil’s in the detail, Coworth Park ought to be Lucifer’s very home, because everything is just so. Except that, of course, it’s the opposite — this place is very, very close to heaven. It’s not only the genteel architecture of the building — which once hosted Edward VII and was later home to the 17th Earl of Derby for 50 years — or the 240 acres of wildflower meadows, polo grounds and manicured parkland, where water jets gurgle in tiny garden pools fringed by tall grasses, swaying vervain and the bright orange lanterns of physalis.

In the lobby, a naked tree, frozen in a perennial bronze winter, guards a triumph of Guernsey lilies, chrysanthemums and berries that sprout from a bed of lumpy gourds. The fire roars within the broken-pottery surround of the drawing-room fireplace, as the pianist tinkles the ivories. An elliptic staircase spirals up to the bedrooms like a work of mathematical art; and, dear to the heart of this coffee snob, a proper espresso machine takes pride of place on one of our suite’s side tables. 

The rooms 

I had to touch the four-poster in our bedroom — the Stanley Suite in Mansion House, the main hotel building — to check whether they were made of metal, so detailed was the carving that made them look like tree branches. At the foot of the bed, a side table hides a retractable television, so that the lazy can watch rugby while lying down (any resemblance to real persons here is, obviously, purely coincidental), but there is a second television in the sitting room for those who would rather watch something else, or, even better, curl up on the sofa and read a book with a glass of champagne in hand. 

The bed faces the windows soaking up magical views of the darkening sky at night and the frost-carpeted gardens in the morning. The room’s pièce de résistance, however, must be the copper tub in the bathroom, gleaming against the marble floors. 

Should this not be your cup of tea (or espresso demitasse), there are plenty of other bedroom options to pick from, too, whether inside the main hotel building or in the Stables or Gardeners cottages; and if nothing short of a home to call your own will do, there’s a choice of the North Lodge and the enchanting, timber-framed Dower House.

Eating and drinking 

For serious eating, head to Adam Smith’s Michelin-starred Woven, where the food looks as glamorous as the dining room (and the diners). We, however, stepped into the fairy-tale building that is The Barn — it’s framed by dozens of hanging lights and you almost expect a pixie to zigzag around your feet as you approach it — and dined in the conservatory, a warm blanket on our legs.

The game consommé, cascading over meat, peas, plump dumpling and diced root vegetables, was surprisingly delicate. Ever one for strong, intense flavours, I’d have preferred it to be bolder, more gamey, but it was a perfect palette-prepper for the beef fillet, which was a marvel, salt-aged in Yorkshire and served with a minimalist arrangement of braised onions and a side of chunky chips (or, in my case, fries).

The Barn is a place where rare means rare: slicing through the crisp browning revealed red, juicy meat — and not that depressing, pallid shade of overcooked pink that dashes any hope of succulence. But it’s perhaps the wine list that really won me over. Not only are there four Pinot Noirs on the list — that most temperamental of grapes, beloved of film geeks ever since Sideways — but there’s a good range of interesting wines by the glass.

The selection is far more imaginative than the obligatory Pinot Grigio and Merlot (although they are both there for those seeking the reassurance of the familiar), so you can easily try something different with every course (and yes, there’s even a Pinot Noir available by the glass)

How they’ll keep you busy 

The spa, the spa, nothing but the spa. Not that there isn’t plenty more to do, of course. It’s just that, why would you want to do it, when you can spend a day in a hushed, neroli-scented cocoon of thick white robes and soothing massages? In one hour, the soft-spoken Elena almost worked a miracle and — with some help from a lush, fragrant oil made by ishga to a Coworth Park recipe — undid a lifetime of sitting hunched over a laptop typing furiously with two fingers, before giving me a few suggestions to prevent the disaster reoccurring in the future.

And that’s only the start because, after the treatment, you can sink into the enveloping armchairs and sofas of the relaxation room, herbal tea in hand, and contemplate the panorama. Or, even better, head outside, sit on the carved bench and look across the sunken pool (and the swan fastidiously grooming its feathers), through the rugged rusty-brown of one of Carol Peace’s corten sculptures to the field beyond, as the birds flit and sing around you.

What else to do while you’re there 

Walk from sculpture to sculpture and see how Nature has made itself at home there — the little bird feather perched on the lip of the bird bath sculpture, or the gossamer threads of a spider web stretching from a tiny bronze couple to the corten ‘bench’ on which they are seated. Go riding or pretend to — horses are everywhere at Coworth, from the real ones in the stables to the chocolate heads in the bedrooms and Johannes Nielsen’s almost abstract bronzes in the lobby, all long necks and spindly legs.

Play polo (see above), or take a walk down the Wiggly Path to the lake and watch the swans glide, serene and ever so slightly haughty, paying no notice to the excitable raft of ducks swimming around them. If you can bear to tear yourself out of the hotel, the splendours of the Savill Garden and Windsor Great Park are around the corner.

Who is it for? 

Anyone that needs to relax and escape the world for a couple of days. 

What gives it the ‘wow’ factor? 

It’s hard to choose from the exquisite art (not only the sculptures, but the miniature works along the corridors and the pressed botanicals framed in the rooms), the glorious grounds and the perfect interiors — a manual on how to ‘do’ modern in a period house. But perhaps what really gives Coworth Park the edge is its people, present but never overbearing, always discreet and attentive, whether it’s keeping the fire going in the drawing room (above) or noticing you have drunk (well, inhaled) your cappuccino at breakfast and offering to bring a second one. 

The one thing we’d change 

The selection of complimentary magazines in my bedroom had a glaring omission — there was no copy of Country Life. Add one and Coworth Park could truly be heaven on earth.

Rooms at Coworth Park start at £545 a night. Visit www.dorchestercollection.com/ascot/coworth-park or call 01344 876600 for more information.

If Italy is the Garden of Europe, then Tuscany is undoubtedly the garden of Italy. Bounded by the ranges of the Apennines on one side and the sea on the other, this bountiful province is famed for its abundance of beautiful cities, medieval and Renaissance buildings, exquisite formal gardens, and its unrivalled collections of masterpieces by the Italian greats: Botticelli, Donatello, Michelangelo, Fran Angelico, Lippi and Masaccio. 

The British have a tendency to flock to the Continent during the summer months, which seems perverse, when, thanks to global warming, their own country offers similar climes to that of the Mediterranean at high season. Italy has much to offer in early spring and autumn, when days, albeit shorter, can offer balmy conditions and abiding sunshine as well as the opportunity to explore the local municipalities without battling the maddening crowds in the blazing heat. Solitude-seeking travellers can rejoice. 

Rising majestically above the valleys and low-slung hills of the chic and discreet Maremma region sits Castello di Vicarello, a medieval stronghold dating from 1112, originally built by the House of Aldobrandeschi, looking out to the Tyrrhenian Sea.

This Tuscan heartland offers much to delight those prepared to deviate from the more familiar paths of the Grand Tour, with flourishing Etruscan and Roman civilisations once residing here: a perfect rural microcosm of woodlands, fertile plains and natural thermal springs. 

The beauty of this region is also undiminished by winter’s breath and the low-season also allows for the quiet exploration of the local hilltop towns: Montalcino, Montepulciano (above), Castiglione della Pescaia and of course, the wonderfully romantic Gothic city of Siena.

As the centuries passed, Castello di Vicarello descended from its zenith and by the 1970s it was a dilapidated ruin. In 1979, Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti bought the castle and, over the next 25 years, began the laborious process of restoring it to its former glory. Sensitively updated to retain as much of the original masonry as possible, the castle’s medieval stonework is today complemented by glass and ironwork, forged by the local blacksmith. 

In true Tuscan style, the surrounding landscape and gardens also developed into a natural extension of the castle itself — guided by the great designer Giuppi Pietromarchi — 40 hectares of enchanting gardens, organic vineyards, olive groves and farmland.

Now under the supervision of the next generation — the omne trium perfectum of brothers Neri, Brando and Corso — family-run Castello di Vicarello offers a private piece of paradise within a boutique hotel milieu. Nine elegantly-styled suites curate antique furniture and marble bathrooms alongside the family’s extensive art collection, punctuated with furnishings from Mrs Baccheschi Berti’s experiences in Bali and Malaysia, as well as pieces by international and local artists such as Livio Marzot.

Well-thumbed copies of vintage Elle Deco and Art Forum dress coffee tables, alongside door-stop reference books on cultural heavyweights including Helmut Newton and Corbusier: a luxurious sanctuary for any traveller with an interest in exceptional artistic execution, whether it be from the Renaissance or the present day.

The Spa Suite, popular with honeymooners and the most modern offering on the estate, looks out from its 753sqft terrace to the Mediterranean coastline, and enjoys an alfresco jacuzzi converted from a 250hl oak wine barrel. For those that prefer panoramic views and a roaring winter fire inside the castle walls, Suite Torre is a splendid choice. 

Early autumn is also an ideal time to explore Tuscany’s wine regions, with September and October inked into the oenologist’s diary for the vendemmia. The Castello di Vicarello estate produces four regal red wines (with a white in the pipeline) produced from organic grapes grown and harvested from their vineyards, and offers wine tasting experiences to guests, greedily accompanied by delicious cold cuts and local cheeses. 

The milder climes of the low-season also invite walkers to explore the vineyards and surrounding landscape. If you’re lucky, paw patrol — the castle’s canine matriarch Uva (Italian for grape), descended from a Maremma sheepdog — might join you on ambulations, gently herding you around the carpets of golden chanterelle mushrooms thriving in the estate's shadier spots.

As one would expect from any elite Italian residence, food is a divine experience (Mrs Baccheschi Berti is also the author of the definitive guide to Tuscan cooking, My Tuscan Kitchen: Seasonal Recipes from the Castello di Vicarello, published by Rizzoli). The estate’s kitchen garden supplies the table, cultivating over 50 varieties of vegetables and 30 aromatic herbs.

The olive groves produce oil so aromatic and robust it could be served as a stand-alone aperitif and fresh eggs are provided by the estate’s happy hens. An enlightening cooking lesson helmed by Head Chef, Massimiliano Volonterio revealed that Italian cooking really is all about simplicity, quality ingredients and seasonal flavours, assuming it is of course, executed with a glass of wine in hand and plenty of passione. 

Rooms during the low season from €690. The hotel is open March 20 – November 24. Visit www.castellodivicarello.com for more information and to book

Although I have been fortunate to go racing at the Cheltenham Festival several times, I had never — to my shame — ventured into or stayed in the town centre itself. And what a mistake that was. For, as soon as I got the chance to visit, it was easy to see why so many since 1788 — when King George III came to drink the waters — have been drawn to this Regency gem in the middle of the Cotswolds.

Perched, as its name suggests, at the top of the Promenade (so called because that’s where the town’s smartest Georgian residents used to ‘promenade’ up and down the pavement), No. 131 is in a plum spot overlooking the Imperial Gardens.

As the hotel is an amalgamation of three graceful white townhouses that have been reimagined by Julian Dunkerton, co-founder of Superdry clothing and his wife, Jade Holland Cooper, owner of her own eponymous fashion label, it’s perhaps no surprise that No. 131’s interior is more stylish, contemporary and edgy than it’s classic façade suggests. Think dark walls, modern statement artwork and a decadent gold leaf ceiling in the lavish Japanese restaurant that feels as if it could be in Paris, France.

Since the pandemic, No. 131 has benefited from the ingenious ‘tenting’ of its ample wrap-around terrace, which has transformed the previously open-air drinking and dining area into a partly alfresco bar and an enclosed brasserie restaurant.

The rooms 

The hotel’s 36 (‘cosy’, ‘very good’, ‘excellent’ and ‘outstanding’) rooms all feature Egyptian bed linen and Bramley and Acqua Di Parma products, with either roll top baths or walk-in showers. Most — and my family room on the top floor of The King’s House was no exception — have wood panelling, tweed headboards and generous bathrooms.

In fact, as well as a separate twin bedded room, mine had a roll top bath discreetly tucked to the side of the bed, plus a vast Crittal-screened shower with two shower heads in which six of us could have easily showered in comfort. There was also a double marble-topped sink and handy bags of the toiletries we so often forget, such as toothpaste, razors and cotton wool pads. Due to the buzzing town-centre location — and the pumping tunes emanating from Gin & Juice — I wasn’t sure I’d sleep well; but, fortunately, room No 36 was blissfully quiet.

Eating and drinking

The hotel’s lively 131 Terrace Restaurant envelops the front side of the property and is cleverly segregated from the rest of the broad pavement, so you won’t be disturbed by passers by while you are dining. Open all day and most of the night, it serves brasserie-style breakfast, lunch and dinner. Expect classic menu choices, from eggs’ Benedict and kedgeree to Cornish lemon sole on the bone and charcoal-grilled dry-aged ribeye steaks with fries and cherry vine tomatoes.

However, for a special occasion or an intimate date night, the in-house sushi and Asian restaurant, Yoku (which translates as ‘a desire to do things exceptionally well’), will delight all your senses. Sat in a quiet corner, looking out of the floor-to-ceiling sash windows onto the bustling Promenade beyond, I indulged in the eight-course tasting menu that began with a tuna tartare salad, followed by the chef’s selection of assorted sashimi — with wasabi, shoyu and pickled ginger — served on top of a giant clam shell, which was an absolute show-stopper in terms of looks and taste, thanks in no small part to the plumes of dry ice billowing from beneath it.

The seared Wagyu beef nigiri was velvety soft and the flavour of the black miso cod, with fried rice and green chilli, made it one of the most delectable dishes I’ve ever eaten. I also enjoyed learning about the range of sake on the drinks’ menu that were not, as I had previously thought, terrifyingly strong, and was chuffed that I managed to master the chopsticks without dropping too many delicious morsels.

How they’ll keep you busy

As it’s right on the edge of the town’s Montpellier district — with its many boutiques, jewellers and gift shops and a short walk from the sophisticated High Street, where you’ll find Whistles, Hobbs and the White Company — No.131 would be a great base for a shopping trip. If you book far enough in advance, it’s obviously also ideal for the Cheltenham Festival of National Hunt racing in mid-March and the town’s June food-and-drink festival, as well as October’s Literature Festival. 

What else to do while you’re there

Bike hire and picnic hampers can be arranged for those wanting to reconnoitre the coveted Cotswolds countryside, along with horse-riding, fishing on the River Coln (above) or clay-pigeon shooting lessons with the Olympic trainer and game shot, Ian Coley.

Who is it for?

All ages, but the Mediterranean/Ibiza style-vibe of the outdoor bar and dining spaces, as well as the Gin & Juice bar, featuring DJ sets and a choice of 400-plus types of gin, beneath the hotel, make it more suited to a younger audience.

What gives it the ‘wow’ factor?

Apart from the appeal of the considerately refurbished rooms and the grandeur of the buildings’ period details — the curved wooden bannister leading up the stairs to my room in The King’s House is a thing of beauty — the seductive opulence of the hotel’s sleek Bar Tokyo and Japanese restaurant, Yoku, is a tour de force.

With deep black walls, cherry red accents and a curvaceous bar, not to mention the waiting staff’s expert knowledge of each exquisitely presented and flavoursome dish (there’s nothing that Malaney, the exceptional Restaurant Manager, does not know) all served under glistening chandeliers, this is fine Asian dining at its theatrical best.

The one thing we’d change 

Although my family room in The King’s House was utterly spoiling, especially for a solo traveller, I would have loved to have been able to open a window. I expect they were sealed shut for health and safety reasons, but I cannot be alone in preferring some fresh (as opposed to air-conditioned) air, particularly overnight.

Rooms at No.131 from £135 a night, including breakfast. Call 01242 822939 or book direct at www.no131.com

We do country house hotel spas and wellness spaces very well here in the UK; yoga breaks, bootcamps and wellness weekends are ten a penny (though the standards vary wildly), but for more comprehensive and in-depth personalised programmes and half a chance of getting long-term results, there has to date been very little on offer.

A newcomer though, on the glorious outskirts of Bath, looks set to provide the answers. It's called Combe Grove and days at this retreat revolve around a packed schedule.

The morning might begin mindfully with a 7am walk through the grounds or meditation session, but the pace soon picks up, with full-pelt heath audits (insulin resistance tests, heart health monitoring, cholesterol level checks, muscle- and fat-mass reports), one-to-one consultations with the nutritionist, and holistic therapies including acupuncture, reflexology (which was some of the best I've ever had) and structural integration (a revelation for poor posture culprits).

You might want to pause for breath because there's even more: including, a roster of fascinating workshops with specialist on-site medic Dr Campbell Murdoch, movement specialists and sleep experts, an indoor and outdoor pool, Pilates classes, tennis courts and 70 acres of ancient woodland and meadows that beg to be explored via marked out running trails.

This is somewhere that is taking wellness and more accurately, good longterm health, very seriously indeed.

Combe Grove arrived on the scene with little fanfare earlier in the year — a passion project and charitable trust from philanthropist Helen Aylward-Smith. The initial goal is to tackle Type 2 Diabetes, which is done as part of the seven-day Metabolic Health plan. There is also a menopause-focused week and on the horizon, a gut health one too, displaying a much-needed awareness of the critically under-served medical issues of our time.

If that all sounds terribly severe, remember that this is a retreat, with a group of guests all in it together. There is camaraderie and community spirit, especially when it comes to waiting until 11am for breakfast (time-restricted eating — concertina-ing all meals into an eight-hour window — is an important part of the process.) Lots of the produce comes straight from the industrious kitchen garden, but there is meat on the menu because protein plays a huge part. Expect lots of nuts, seeds, beans and pulses too. It’s delicious and filling. Think feta tarts, oak-smoked mackerel, cheddar, leek and mint frittatas. You're not going to get any sugar though — which means potatoes rarely feature and alcohol is off the menu.

Relearning the important pillars of diet and debunking the myths on what good metabolic health looks like is key here. It’s not rocket science, and the process of being reminded is incredibly compelling. Also compelling is that view, which draws your eyesight down the valley, towards the ancient centre of wellness and hot springs that is Bath.

Two-time Chelsea gold medalist Amanda Randall Cox was brought in to bring the gardens to life. A rewilding programme is already underway, designed to complement Combe's existing ancient and indigenous tree groves and clusters of rare bee orchids — and provide even more habitats for the 17 endangered species of bats already in residence. Soon, there will also be a herbarium and a fernery on site too.

This deep reverence for the land is fundamental to the ethos of the place. Guests experience that first-hand during evening badger watching trips into the forest, the guide so in tune that he knows just when the animals will come out of their set to sniff around and play. Moments like this are grounding and eye-opening, reinforcing the idea of the importance of nature.

Fundamentally, a stay at Combe Grove is about gently, but firmly shifting your mindset, building new habits, being open to making some radical changes and sticking with the progress as part of a year long support programme which is provided after you leave. Some guests arrive feeling incredibly stressed; some want to lose weight; some are very specifically trying to reverse the first signs of Type 2 Diabetes. And they are met with a transformational and educational experience — one that feels incredibly relevant and essential right now.

Everyone will take away something different. Lifestyle tweaks are a given. Such as never eating supper really late again or staying away from processed food and changing how and where you do your food shop. Perhaps you will feel empowered to reverse and revise your metabolic health. One thing is for sure, you’ll leave enlightened and likely lighter too.

Combe Grove prices from £2,600 for the all-inclusive Metabolic Health Retreat and year-long support programme, and from £2,900 for specialist versions. Visit www.combegrove.com or telephone 01225 595 744 for more help and to book.

After the colourful bustle of central Rajasthan, Amanbagh is an island of calm and peace enveloped within the wall of an old palace — each room (there are 37 in total, including 15 Pool Pavilions) a separate Mughal-style temple of relaxation set amongst wide sweeping lawns and flowering bougainvillea.

The sense of antiquity is reinforced by the view of ancient forts and temples along the valley and the Aravalli Range — a mountain range in north-western India, said to be the world’s oldest geological feature. 

Early morning yoga is complemented by afternoon rooftop meditation. We are exhorted to ‘look after your emotions; no-one else will’ as we stare into the flickering flames of a specially prepared fire into which we throw petals and spices. Our sense of wellbeing is further enhanced by a long Ayurvedic massage treatment after consultation with the physician.

Relaxation continues in the garden where there's a 100ft sea-green swimming pool and separate wading pool. It's open all year round — and the water kept cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The sun loungers that surround it and shaded by eucalyptus trees. For extra privacy, plump for Pool Pavilion 20 which has its own marble pool and river reviews.

Running a bath — all of the rooms have one (above) and they're so gargantuan that they can take a good half-hour to — is another chance to reflect on the rich variety of wildlife we have seen on our early morning naturalist-guided walk: including starlings looking like Essex boys with slicked back hair, and a pied kingfisher swerving to avoid a cuckoo. The rickety looking wooden platforms dotted around the fields are a reminder of the need to protect your crops at night from marauding boar, leopards or deer. 

While you're there

• There's an extensive cocktail list but try the Tajmopolitan in the magnificent bar. It's a twist on the Cosmopolitan, but using the ubiquitous fresh pomegranate juice as a superior alternative to cranberry. Dangerously moreish
• Keep your room door shut and monkey stick ready to hand. The cheeky creatures have a strange predilection for shampoo and anything shiny and interesting left by your private pool
• Be sure to go on a late afternoon drive of the local villages for the ‘cow dust tour’. Bucolic scenes of women in bright saris working in the fields, boys tending goats and the occasional Brahmin cow wandering about form the timeless backdrop to rural life
• A visit to the local temple, Barakhambi, gives a fascinating insight into Hindu chants and devotional practices. A daily enthusiastic ringing of the bell at high decibel precedes various offerings to the local gods. Some young men had their new car blessed by the priest when we went
• I much enjoyed riding a Marwari horse around the surrounding area. His inward turning ears, looking for all the world like a pair of Chinese slippers, are mesmerising

Best time to go

In March or April, when it's warm, but you won't have to deal with the oppressive heat or monsoon rains. This is all the best time of year for tiger spotting and combining a stay here with one of the safari camps comes highly recommended.

How to do it 

Scott Dunn offers a visit to Amanbagh, Alwar as part of a nine-night trip to India, with prices starting from £7,100 per person based on two adults sharing. The price includes two nights at The Oberoi New Delhi, on a bed-and-breakfast basis, four nights at SUJÁN Sher Bagh, Ranthambhore, on a full-board basis, three nights at Amanbagh, Alwar, on a full-board basis, and one night at The Oberoi, Gurgaon, on a bed-and-breakfast basis, return flights from the UK, six game drives at SUJÁN Sher Bagh and private transfers. Call 020 8682 5060 or visit www.scottdunn.com for more information.

Credit: Anjali Singh

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Follow the long driveway through 300 acres of serene, rolling countryside and past the 18-hole championship golf course, and The Grove’s red brick façade comes into spectacular and serene view. Today, with the house sitting amid a sea of immaculate gardens, you’d never guess the ups and downs that this place has seen; nor, especially, how 25 years ago it was in a terrible state.

There has been a grand house here since the reign of Elizabeth I, but it was in the 18^th and 19^th centuries that it enjoyed its peak, when it was owned by the Earls of Clarendon, aka the Villiers family. The mansion they built here was renowned for its magnificent parties attracting the cream of British society — including Queen Victoria herself. So powerful were the family in the early 19^th century that it’s said they successfully insisted upon the building of the Watford Tunnels for the first London to Birmingham railways. Less than a century later, they were forced to sell up due to estate taxes, and The Grove became, at various times, everything from a girl’s boarding school to a wartime base to a British Rail training facility. It was bought — well, rescued really — by the Ralph Trustees in 1996, when a seven-year effort began which turned it in to the beautiful and well-established hotel, golf course and spa that it is today.

The Rooms

After a refurbishment led by award-winning designer Martin Hulbert, the mansion rooms and suites are modern, clean and stylish: deeply inspired by nature, they use muted colours and ornamental accents from the outside. Our spacious room overlooked the golf course and lush gardens, with a view that could be enjoyed from every corner of the room, even from the four-poster bed and free-standing bath. The bathroom was stocked with products from Bamford, a lovely sustainable and organic skincare brand, which are also used in the hotel’s spa.

Eating and drinking

You won’t go hungry at The Grove, with its three main restaurants: The Glasshouse, The Stables and Madhu’s, the latter being an Indian banquet served in a room at the heart of the mansion.

The Stables serves traditional food prepared using ingredients grown on-site in the kitchen garden located within the hotel grounds. A starter of caramelised goat’s cheese, for example, was served up with gorgeous home-grown tomatoes and accompanied by a cocktail named ‘The Queen’s Choice’, in honour of former visitor Queen Victoria. I could as easily have tried ‘The Secret Garden’ cocktail inside, made with herbs and fruit from the same kitchen garden.

If you fancy an all-you-can-eat buffet with a selection of international foods, then The Glasshouse is the place to go. It’s also where we enjoyed a wide range of options for breakfast; I happily filled my plate up with a full English breakfast, followed by fruit, savouries and yogurt.

You can also visit the Potting Shed in the walled garden, which hosts a variety of pop-ups — and in a lovely touch, the mansion rooms come with a complimentary ice cream menu from Hackney Gelato.

How they’ll keep you busy

The immaculately-kept championship golf course is what made The Grove famous — it hosted Tiger Woods at his peak in 2006 when a World Golf Championships event was played here — but there is plenty for those who don’t want to spend time on the links. If you’re into cycling, running or simply just up for a walk, there are three trails around the estate, the longest of which is a four mile trail; there’s also a shorter wildlife trail that’s great for kids as it loops around a nature reserve. Beyond that you can try tennis, archery, axe-throwing and laser clay shooting, and more activities are laid on during the school holidays.

If you’d rather kick back and relax, there’s a real treat in the form of 'Ralph's Beach', the man-made beach and pool within the walled garden.

The Sequoia Spa also has a swimming pool —indoor this time — as well as Jacuzzi and steam room in addition to a menu of treatments. I booked in for a ‘B Vibrant Ritual’, which involves massage and sound therapy to rebalance your energy — a little different to the norm, and definitely one I would recommend.

What else to do while you’re there

If the gardens at the Grove aren’t enough, just a mile from the hotel is Cheslyn House, where there are more beautifully designed gardens and woodland to explore. If you’re a Harry Potter fan, the Warner Bros Studio in Leavesden, ten minutes away by car, is a must.

Who is it for?

The Grove caters to all. The mansion room we stayed in was designed for couples, but there are rooms available for families and even your four-legged friends. There are plenty of activities to keep children entertained and walks for dogs, and couples can enjoy the cosiness of the hotels facilities.

What gives it the ‘wow’ factor?

The tranquil 300 acres of countryside and the endless offerings from the hotel itself are at the core of the appeal, and some will enjoy looking out for famous guests (the England football team usually stay here while preparing for home matches at Wembley). But for something truly different you can try a nine-course tasting menu served in a hot air balloon; sadly, you don't get to dine in the air, instead eating while safely on the hotel grounds.

A one-night stay in a newly launched Mansion room will start from £580 with suites starting from £890. See www.thegrove.co.uk for more details.

When visiting a country house hotel, you expect elegant buildings, comfortable rooms, delightful gardens and perhaps the odd fountain. What you don't expect is for the grounds of an 18th century building to host the latest sporting craze — yet at Down Hall, near Bishop's Stortford in Essex, that is exactly what is on offer: the game of padel.

For those yet to be acquainted with the sport, it's a hybrid of tennis, short-tennis and squash — and perhaps a bit of Swingball thrown in, given that you use a shortened, plastic bat instead of a strung racquet. It's been hailed as 'the fastest-growing sport in the world', with A-list fans including supermodels, politicians (including Emmanuel Macron) and sports stars; David Beckham and Lionel Messi are both said to be mad keen, as are half the drivers on the F1 grid. Even tennis royalty seem to love it: Serena Williams, Roger Federer and Andy Murray all play, with the latter actually having invested in the sport, and the LTA have officially brought it under their umbrella in the UK.

Clearly, it would be madness to book a weekend away just to play padel, a sort of cut-down version of tennis with elements of squash thrown in. Yet you wouldn't be human if you weren't at least curious to try your hand at the sport — and it's a real hoot. It's far easier to pick up than regular tennis (based on the exploits of two middle-aged people and a kids of 9 and 11) and a lot more forgiving, since walls at the back of the court bounce the ball happily back into play.

It's the sort of joyous game that makes you laugh rather than getting you frustrated, which fits in perfectly with the relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere at the rest of Down Hall.

This glorious house was built in the 1720s, initially being commissioned by the poet and diplomat Matthew Prior, but being finished after his death by his friend and benefactor Edward Harley, the 2nd Earl of Oxford, whose marriage to the fabulously wealthy heiress Henrietta Cavendish-Holles (daughter of the Duke of Newcastle) gave him the funds to see James Gibb's Palladian-influence design, and Charles Bridgeman's landscape, brought to life.

By the 1930s the hall had become Downham School, attended by the legendary Pamela Harriman — the beloved daughter-in-law of Winston Churchill — and Francs Kydd, mother of the late Diana, Princess of Wales.

Down Hall became a hotel in 1986, and since then the owners have made significant efforts to retain the underlying grandeur of this classic 18th century building, while also bringing in modern touches. The Garden Room restaurant is the best example of that, with bold colours and patterned walls beneath an ornate plaster ceiling.

Food-wise, a started of pan-seared scallops was excellent, steaks were sound, but the star of the show were the truly inspired desserts — not least, during our visit, a delightfully-made spiced pumpkin mousse.

Rooms vary hugely, from wonderfully evocative suites in the original building to more modest places to sleep as you'd expect of any large hotel. Most, though, even in the newer sections have plenty of character with high ceilings, vast windows and lovely views, while bathrooms are spacious and well-designed.

The hotel reception and restaurant are located off to the side so as not to disturb the original flow of the building. Thanks to that the main hallway — now called the lounge — still has an old country house feel, spacious and grand. You can sit here and enjoy afternoon tea, or head through the french doors to the covered terrace and the grounds beyond.

And what grounds they are. There are huge swathes of lawn, gazebo, a giant chess set, woodland, children's play area, ponds and even a vegetable garden — as well as the sporting facilities, which include gym, children's football pitch and tennis courts, as well as the aforementioned padel court. The only thing missing is a pool; frankly, though, you'll probably be too busy having fun to notice.

Rooms at Down Hall start at £159.50 for a classic double, or £182.50 including breakfast. See downhall.co.uk for more information.

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I am sitting cross-legged in the forest, mildly intoxicated by its clean, green scent. The rhythmic crash of waves drifts up from below and I swear I can see them breaking on the shore, on the back of my closed eyelids. ‘Let go of your thoughts,’ encourages our yoga teacher, entirely needlessly — mine have already been drowned out by Nature and the all-encompassing warmth of the Greek sun as it sets pinkly on the horizon.

‘Reconnect, recharge, rejuvenate’ implores the website for family-owned, adults-only retreat F Zeen on the island of Kefalonia (no excited shrieking piercing the calm here — it’s almost as though the child-catcher has been around before our arrival, even if you venture past the private stretch of beach). Sprawling over the hillside leading down to the Ionian Sea, the warm stone and clever landscaping — with little koi ponds and natural-looking planting that is clearly highly thought-out — of the 63 rooms, pools, spa areas, yoga decks, outdoor gym, tennis courts, golf simulator and restaurants blend into the surroundings rather than intruding on them and really do amount to a ‘retreat’ rather than a hotel. 

Yes, there are large boards listing the many activities available each day (hikes, mindfulness and snorkelling; circuit training and body sculpt for the truly dedicated), but it’s more than that. The moment you pass through the gates, the rest of the world seems to melt away, to be worried about on another day, by another you. When the taxi driver tells you you’re staying at ‘the best place’ (in Lourdas? The whole island?), you suspect you’re in for a treat. At F Zeen, you certainly are.

While you're there

• Check the film schedule for the outdoor cinema and book a beanbag chair beneath the stars, complete with white sand, headphones and snacks
• Keep an eye on the daily specials at the two restaurants, Gaia and Selini — the moussaka is like nothing available on UK shores
• Grab a paddleboard and head left along the coast, where you will find tiny secluded beaches along the way (and possibly the odd nude sunbather, our waiter warns)
• Try a tea, juice or smoothie from the wellness-drinks menu: the Bee is a blend of almond milk, banana, bee pollen, honey, tahini, cinnamon and Greek yoghurt that tastes too delicious to actually be good for you — but it is!
• Walk up the hill into the heart of the old village of Lourdas and celebrate making it up there with a cold beer at Cafe Platanos, which offers one of the best views down to the sea

Did you know?

Kefalonia is the setting for Louis de Bernières Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, inspired by the Italian occupation of the island during the Second World War. You can visit locations used for the film adaptation, but there is also a war memorial and museum dedicated to the soldiers of the Acqui Division massacred by the Nazis at Argostoli, less than half an hour’s drive from F Zeen.

Rooms from €300 (about £265) a night (00 30 26710 31423)

Retreat east and you will find true soul, all thanks to the love and care that Dominic Richards has lavished on a once derelict dairy farm in Suffolk over the past 18 years.

Having trained at the former Prince of Wales’ Institute of Architecture—where he was inspired by the now King’s ethos that ‘seeing is believing’—Mr Richards was determined to bring the 16th century farmhouse, crumbling outbuildings and land back to life in an authentic, holistic and sustainable way, using traditional building methods. 

The house was freed of its ‘suffocating cloak of concrete’ and the rotten elements of the oak frame repaired, before timber lathes, wood wool and lime render were added. Then every slate, brick, pantile and flint wall was taken down, cleaned, catalogued and reused to create this rural idyll, which embodies eco-friendly opulence.

Today, Retreat East is set amongst 35 acres. The eclectic accommodation includes rooms in The Farmhouse (which can sleep up to eight in total) and a cluster of free standing barns (each one can sleep up to four in total)—comfortable spaces that benefit from high-end kitchens, plump sofas and vast beds. 

The Retreat’s new buildings have also come under equal consideration. Hewn from green oak frames and clad in local larch, they’re powered by renewable electricity, soon to be boosted by a solar field that will make the entire venture carbon neutral.

Guests are encouraged to explore the impressive kitchen garden, the beehives, bug hotels and wildflower meadows that attest to Mr Richards’ commitment to a better future with the environment at its heart. And for more traditional relaxation techniques, there’s a bijou spa, which has an outdoor tub, sauna and steam room (it’s possible to book it all out as a whole). 

At the centre of this haven stands The Great Barn—a triple-height open space with exposed beams and a towering brick fireplace—where we dined, before settling in for a drink at the tasteful bar, with a pool table and games room. 

Beyond all this is a terrace flanked by vines—ideal for savouring the new head chef Adam Spicer’s seasonal menu (when we visited it featured a fresh fig and shallot tarte tatin). The service is, unsurprisingly, faultless and no request, however fussy or unusual, is too much.

From £255 a night

When I first became Editor of Country Life back in 2006, I was deeply thrilled to have been offered the job I most coveted in publishing. Country Life had been a triumphant success for more than a century and was one of the most recognisable publications in Britain. It had always been the most eclectic of magazines and, remarkably, was — and still is — the only perfect-bound title produced weekly in the country. What I didn’t know about was its history and, in particular, the man who founded it, Edward Hudson.

His picture hung above the desk in my office, staring down with a tired expression at my labours, but, as time went by, I found that I wanted to find out more about him, the man whose vision had provided me with my dream job.

Lindisfarne Castle stands at the end of Holy Island on the north-east coast of Northumberland. In 1901, Hudson bought the castle on proceeds from the swift success of Country Life, which he had launched four years before, on January 8, 1897. The island is of enormous importance as a centre of early English Christianity, cut off by tides from the mainland twice a day and was the scene of the first Viking raid on Britain in 793. Is there anywhere else in which so much of our history has taken place in such a small place, outside of London?

When I visited Lindisfarne to find out more about Hudson, I was struck by the ethereal light across the mudflats; the seals’ mournful singing and the broken monastery destroyed by the Scandinavian invaders. It is a mysterious place of beauty, piety and sadness. In the distance, past the little fishing boats, stands the castle, which you approach on foot. Hudson commissioned his protégé, Edwin Lutyens, to remodel the rooms, which have a troglodyte simplicity, as, outside, Gertrude Jekyll made a small garden a short distance from the castle.

This was where the great man greeted his guests in evening dress, waving a glass of Champagne as they arrived from the nearby station on the mainland. There, he built a nine-hole golf course in the dunes and spent his summers, notably with his grand amour, the Portuguese cellist Guilhermina Suggia, who performed small concerts in the castle and to whom he was briefly engaged.

However, Lindisfarne Castle is a refuge of exclusion, rather than inclusion; Hudson, like me, was a shy man. It was ultimately somewhere to be with close friends, to think, escape and allow the waves and the wonder of the place to combine.

Where to stay near Lindisfarne

For many living in southern England, their thoughts turn to the West Country for a summer break, but Northumberland offers everything to be as glorious as Cornwall. The beaches are as good as any in Britain and, although the sea is often cold, the county more than makes up for that with its splendid castles (there are more than 70), including Alnwick, Bamburgh and Chillingham.

We stayed at East House, one of more than 100 holiday cottages in Northumberland selected and offered by Crabtree and Crabtree. There is a beautiful home — from romantic getaways to great houses with 20 beds — to suit the most discerning of tastes.

East House is an imposing Grade II-listed Georgian manor, surrounded by a pretty, well-tended garden only a short walk from Cheswick sands, one of the quietest beaches in Northumberland, which, out of season, means that you will be alone on the sand. In even better news, the house accepts dogs, so it would make the perfect place to host a family celebration.

There are plenty of excellent restaurants and pubs nearby, a welcome reward after a day in the freshest of air under astonishingly big skies. This was the third Crabtree and Crabtree I have stayed in, including The Boathouse at Norham for fishing on the River Tweed. I can’t imagine going back there without trying out another.

Seven nights at East House (sleeps up to 12 guests) from £1,950 — 01573 2267111; www.crabtreeandcrabtree.com

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The Swan, a white-washed 17th-century coaching inn, occupies an idyllic position along the River Leven, framed by the Lakeland Fells.

The Holte Spa is a really special addition to this already charming hotel. The spa team have meticulously researched and selected three brands to partner with: GROUND Wellbeing (I found my inner zen with their Ground Restorative Ritual), sustainable skincare brand Comfort Zone and OTO (try the CBD-infused massage). 

Inside the purpose-built thermal suite there’s a steam room, experience showers and a sauna. Comfy lounge beds surround a naturally filtered pool. The windows face out onto the spa garden. Guests can expect to embark on tailored thermal journey, but desperate to avoid the ice cold bucket shower and get outside, I skipped around the garden like an excited child at a water park in search of the outdoor hydrotherapy pool.

As well as the spa, there are 30 new Splendid spa bedrooms and the SOUL cafe. The latter is stylish and bright. On day one I went for a colourful and nutritious salad. On day two I opted for a gold-dusted millionaire shortbread. Well, the soul wants what it wants.

The Splendid bedrooms were designed by Fiona Parke: prints by artist-in-residence Olivia Axson hang on the walls and Pooky lamps dot the tables. There are colourful touches—a patterned green wallpaper in one bedroom, a blue coral headboard in another, a glossy, freestanding copper bath in another—but the overall feeling is one of pure relaxation and stillness. Chalky greys and shades of navy dominate. In-room amenities are from Bath House, a Cumbrian brand, and there's plenty of The Lakes Gin in the mini bar.

The main hotel still looks fabulous six years on from its substantial refurbishment (the hotel was seriously affected in the 2015 December floods)—think bold floral- and bird-patterned wallpapers. In the warmer months, nab a table on the riverbank-terrace and watch the comings and goings in the nearby marina.

While you're there

• Newby Bridge Halt station is a five minute stroll from the hotel. Hop aboard a train on the Lakeside and Haverthwaite steam railways, to the southern tip of Lake Windermere where you'll find an aquarium
• A short ferry-ride from Lakeside will deposit you in the Fell-Foot National Trust Park which offers excellent views of the Lake and plenty of walking trails
• Alternatively, carry on your journey aboard the Windermere Steamer to Bowness (and the World of Beatrix Potter Attraction) or Ambleside

Splendid rooms (river or garden facing) from £200 per night, including two hours access to Holte Spa 

Visit Visit Lake District for more information 

Coquillade was a wine-making village, tended to by monks, for many centuries before its sprawling buildings united to became a single luxury hotel — and the rolling vineyards still define its soul. From midsummer onwards, bunches of grapes stud the breakfast buffet (although you might be somewhat distracted by the patisserie selection, the brainchild of local and legendary baker Paul Appy) and there’s a bountiful wine list, plenty sourced from the surrounding Luberon valley. 

There are 11 grape varieties that grow on the neatly pruned vines surrounding the hotel. I stole a few on an evening stroll, some grenache, the most widely-planted red grape, others viognier, caladoc and syrah.

There’s plenty to see and do beyond wine. In fact, Coquillade offers all the normal attractions of the South of France, all in one place. 

A staggering €70million has been lavished on the site since 2008 and a suite of refurbished restaurants are currently enjoying the first full, Covid-free season. There’s something for everyone, from fine dining and Italian classics, to Provencal cooking and surprisingly delicious Thai-style snacks, available at one of the bars.

At brand new Bar Lalique, the Champagne cocktails are a favourite of barman Daniele. Best served in front the fire, as temperatures begin to dip. 

The unexpected highlight was the world-class cycling centre and an afternoon spent cycling around nearby villages, like Roussillon. (Though I probably should’ve guessed that it might be good when I saw a number of lycra-clad enthusiasts and Tour de France hopefuls checking in next to me.) 

Thankfully, you don’t need to be at the top of your cycling game to make the most of it. Simply mention the word ‘e-bike’ and the endlessly accommodating head of concierge Antonie will summon one up out of nowhere. No sweaty hill climbs required.

Best time to go

Autumn, when La Coquillade’s grape harvest is in full swing, and a gorgeous warm light floods the region. Cool, crisp mornings and plenty of sunshine also make October a popular month with cyclists.

While you’re there: 

• Join a ‘wine break’, in partnership with nearby winery Aureto. Think wines, cheeses, pâtés and local honey
• A day trip to Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque is a must — especially in May when the lavender is in full bloom
• Spend a lazy morning in the spa, alternating between the myriad swimming pools, hammams, rain showers and icy baths. Don’t miss the steaming outdoor jacuzzi next to the vineyard

From €750 (about £640) a night, including a welcome gift, a selection of the minibar, breakfast, access to the spa and fitness classes, and access to the Aureto Winery

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In autumn and winter, the Cornish seaside village of St Mawes is a sleepy sort of a place. Fishing boats bob empty in the harbour, the cries of seagulls carry on the crisp breeze and, more often than not, a wild crimson sunset marks the day’s end – a gift of the colder seasons. With the flocks of summering families having long since flown, visitors will find in their stead empty lanes and deserted stone beaches; an atmosphere-laden revelation for those who have only known these parts at their sun-soaked, holidaymaker-filled peak.

It’s at this time of year that The Idle Rocks, the village’s 18-room boutique hotel, also sees a change of personality. In the sitting room, a wide sofa and bulbous armchairs swallow guests, a roaring open fire the perfect companion for a sluggish afternoon with a book or newspaper. On the terrace, blankets are handed out to fend off the biting sea air, for those who wish to put their feet up and enjoy a hot drink, watching as waves clobber the surrounding harbour walls.

Opened in 2013 by Karen Richards and her husband David (a former chairman of Aston Martin, who made his name in motorsports), The Idle Rocks is billed as a home-from-home and is now available on an exclusive-use basis for travelling families, groups of friends and memorable occasions.

For those who wise to escape to the Cornish coast en masse then, it is a retreat light on formality and heavy on comfort, featuring distinctly personal Richards trimmings: framed family photographs, favoured novels and curated collections of objects that speak to travels had and memories made. Commissioned works by local artist David Pearce dress most walls (joyfully colourful abstractions of seaside scenes), while shamelessly riotous prints adorn upholstery. In short, the property has style, but one that lends itself to a snug, private getaway, with room for up to 36 adults and 5 children.

Naturally, taking the whole joint doesn’t mean being left to fend for oneself and guests enjoy all of the neat luxuries of a regular stay, including a full staff and the culinary expertise of Executive Chef Dorian Janmaat, formerly of Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. He has a particular knack for crafting creative, playful menus using terrific local and seasonal produce, and one of the joys of exclusive-use is the freedom to work with him directly on the curation of bespoke lunches and suppers.

As for what to do, well the region is a prize. England’s only tea plantation, Tregothnan, is a short drive away in The Idle Rocks’ Defender, which seats seven and is at the disposal of guests for the duration of their stay. It’s possible to tour the hillside estate and even have a go at plucking a few leaves for a DIY brew. For something a note stronger, head to nearby English winery Trevibban, for a glimpse of the vineyards and a flight through its award-winning bottles.

Then there are traditional country pursuits, of course, and The Idle Rocks makes for a fantastic base for groups during pheasant season, with its own boot room and the use of that sturdy Landy. It also has a bijou spa and, at sibling property, The St Mawes Hotel, the Hidden Cinema accommodates 25 and can be booked exclusively for relaxed evening screenings with ice cream and popcorn.

Autumn and winter in Cornwall then: officially the off-season and yet, when it comes to St Mawes and a private sojourn at the Idle Rocks, it may even leave summer in the water.

Stay at The Idle Rocks on an exclusive-use basis with 18 rooms charged at seasonal rates, plus a £5,000 exclusive-use fee and a minimum food & beverage spend of £5,000 per day. To book visit idlerocks.com. Head to visitcornwall.com for more information on the county and activities.

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Divine inspiration has never been lacking at Runcton Manor, a fine country house predominantly Regency in style, but with 17th-century origins, before which a small monastery is believed to have existed on the site. The Manor is currently on the market through Jackson-Stops for offers over £4 million. 

Its present owners who, in the mid 1990s, bought the Grade II-listed house set in almost six acres of lawn, gardens, river, orchard and woodland, three miles south-east of Chichester, have established the manor in recent years as a yoga and spiritual retreat where people have come to unwind and connect with nature.

Runcton Manor and its grounds, shielded by light woodland from the no-through village road, dominate the southern part of the conservation area around the pretty village of Runcton, which, despite its proximity to Chichester, has retained its peaceful rural character.

In the 1970s, the manor was owned by a local architect who built himself a contemporary house on the opposite side of the clear stream that traverses the grounds and passes under a pretty flint bridge over which a long driveway leads to the west front of the house.

To the north east, a courtyard of stables and outbuildings provides garaging and storage, beyond which a pathway leads to a productive kitchen garden.

Nearby, a heated swimming pool is concealed by high brick and stone walls and surrounded by stone-flagged surrounds planted with sedums, euphorbias and yuccas.

For sale through Mark Astley of Jackson-Stops in Chichester for ‘offers over £4m’, Runcton Manor offers 7,156sq ft of living space on three floors, currently arranged in an adaptable, multi-generational layout, with four/five reception rooms, two kitchen/breakfast rooms and domestic offices on the ground floor.

Above, there are four/five bedrooms and three bathrooms on the first floor; and three further bedrooms, a wet room and a sitting room on the second floor.

More accommodation is available in the stable annexe, where there is planning consent for further residential conversion.

Runcton Manor is currently on the market via Jackson-Stops for offers over £4 million — see more pictures, or enquire with the agent for further details. 

Runcton: What you need to know

Location: Runcton is a village located 3 miles south of Chichester. The nearest train station is within Chichester, offering main line services.

Atmosphere: This pretty village has excellent access to the coast and has its own primary school, church, village shop, pub and excellent farm shop with an adjoining cafe.

Things to do: Nearby Chichester offers more in terms of shopping facilities, as well as a sports centre, tennis club, plus the award-winning Pallant House Gallery and Chichester Festival Theatre. There are also numerous sailing clubs within the area, plus beautiful sandy beaches at West and East Wittering.

Schools: The village primary school is North Mundham Primary School, with Kingsham Primary School and Chichester Free School also within the area and all rated 'good' by Ofsted. For secondary, Chichester High School and Meoncross School are good options.

See more property for sale in the area.

Credit: Strutt and Parker

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A day in the spa can seem like a long time, when one considers that there’s usually a sauna, a steam room, a pool, maybe a hot tub outside and not much else to do except sleep uncomfortably on a sun lounger, breathing in chlorine fumes. There are only a finite number of ways you can combine and repeat these amenities before, pruney and a little dehydrated, you pull your wet hair up into a bun and drive home.

If you’ve started to become a little disillusioned with the ceremony, there’s one place in the UK sure to restore your faith and send you running back into the fold. That place is Aqua Sana, Wiltshire.

Buried in Longleat Forest, Aqua Sana couldn’t make more of its beautiful environment if it tried. Full of open ceilings and large glass windows (you’ll see deers munching leaves from the sauna windows if you’re lucky), you’ll win no prizes for guessing why its called the Forest Spa.

The colonnaded entrance to the spa-proper belays the world beyond with its comparative simplicity, and the promise of over 24 experiences seems cluttered and, might we add, impossible. If you’ve booked one of their many treatments (which should not be overlooked), it’s possible to have your morning taken up with a good massage and a long lounge in the Vitalé Café Bar, nibbling at the excellent food, in no hurry to move.

Although this is my usual move, for Aqua Sana, I must advise against it. The Forest Spa isn’t like any other spa – this is said confidently by one who has been lucky enough to try a fair few across the globe – and it should be entered immediately upon arrival, once you've dropped your bag, changed into a robe and prepared yourself for a forest bathing session like no other.

On the right of the entrance is ‘Sole Therapy’, a foot spa to begin your journey (a word I, for once, use devoid of all irony). Moving through to the centre of the spa, you’ll see the first of many beauties – the outdoor heated pool, with the treetops of the forest above reflected in the water. Take a quick dip and then move on – you have work to do.

The spa is divided into five main sections, each with its own dedicated features and unique design; Volcanic Forest, Nordic Forest, Treetop Nesting, Hot Springs and Forest Immersion. I'm normally quite cynical of the promises spa experiences make, but this time I was floored with the success of the far-fetched venture.

Volcanic Forest is, unsurprisingly, the hottest section, with sauna temperatures of 75 degrees and a 45-degree steam room. Glowing red and cosy, it’s a fantastic place to start. The heat and shower experiences are paired with a fireside nook relaxation room, complete with cosy chairs and startlingly-realistic flames – the whole concept was designed by the team who had hands in the special affects for Game of Thrones, and the skill can be felt everywhere.

Move onto the Alpine section. The shower experiences are cold and vary in pressure, as good as any massage if you're brave enough to give them a go. The Alpine steam room, inspired by the Northern Lights, is accented by blue and green glowing lights punctuating the soft vapours. If you’re braver than brave, head to the Ice Cave with its ice rub – exactly what it says on the tin – after a stint in the Alpine sauna. Relax in the Scandinavian snug with its fluffy blankets and feel as if you’ve been transported to the middle of the mountains.

The concept works on the healing power of forest bathing, and it does it well. Three further sections await visitors – it takes hours upon hours to experience each element to their fullest. My first thought was that this was finally a spa to bring a partner to – even my personified short-attention-span would get lost in Longleat.

The rest of the spa passes much the same in terms of relaxation, and yet so individual in terms of experience. The ‘Deep Relax’ waterbeds of the Rain Forest section are dream-inducing. The ‘Forest Nesting’ cavern, with its inviting beds and moving, celestial ceiling is downright hypnotic – I could’ve spent an entire afternoon there alone. Visit the ‘Hot Spring’ hot tubs outside to experience Longleat Forest itself in all its serene wisdom – try a few different steam rooms in a row and appreciate the different decors and scents. The spa is your oyster – and, for a day, your world too.

The crown jewel of the Forest Spa is, appropriately, upstairs in the newest section of the spa. The Forest Cavern tricks its visitors into believing that they’ve stepped into an underground cave, so realistic does it look. With slab beds and rain showers every few minutes, it’s a place to sit back and chill and watch life move through the treetops above – preferably not with a book.

If you want to continue your healing experience, book Nature’s Ultimate Remedy. The luxurious two-hour treatment includes a body exfoliation, a rasual grey mud body mask, a scalp massage with coconut oil, a hot stone massage, a facial massage and Aegean charcoal face mask, amplified with a rose quartz derma roller. There’s no question about the success of this treatment – it’s, in one word, heaven.

I'm already planning my next visit – maybe pairing it with a forest bike ride or a good hike to make it a whole weekend away.

Aqua Sana Longleat Forest offers a range of spa days and packages (from £59 per person) and spa breaks (from £169 per person). Guests on a Center Parcs short break can also enjoy spa sessions (from £45 per person for three hours). Nature's Ultimate Remedy starts from £199. Visit www.aquasana.co.uk to book.

Credit: Alamy

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In the centre of the delightful West Yorkshire village of Boston Spa lies Boston Hall. It's an enormous — and hugely impressive — Georgian house, first built in 1807, and as the images on this page show, it's in quite remarkable condition.

That wasn't always the case, however. For almost 30 years from the 1980s until 2013, this fine building was used as an office for the Ogden Group rather than the grand house which it began life as. Yet help would arrive in the shape of former England cricket captain Sir Geoffrey Boycott, the famously dogged opening batsman who has become a famously intransigent commentator on television and radio.

Sir Geoff took the place on in 2013 and had it lovingly restored to its former glory. Now, seven years later, it's looking for new owners: Boston Hall is on the market with Croft Residential via OnTheMarket at £2.85 million.

It's clear that Sir Geoff was just as determined with his efforts to restore Boston Hall as he was when attempting to defy the great Australian and West Indian pace attacks of the 1970s and 1980s, for the place as it stands now is utterly immaculate. the kitchen with its u-shaped island, huge windows, high ceiling and views over the garden is a case in point.

The main hallway is also worth a special mention, with its archways and a huge window at the half-landing which makes the space feel light and airy.

The house is actually split up, with a separate, self-contained west wing that could either be re-incorporated into the main house or kept separate.

In total there are six bedrooms, including a master suite with an unusual in-room en-suite that's best described as... well, best described via this picture, in all honesty:

Outside, the garden (given the town-centre location) enormous, featuring a huge, round lawn ringed by trees.

And weaving in and out of those trees is a feature which speaks to Sir Geoff's other sporting passion: golf. A high-quality artificial putting green has been installed, and there is also a practice net for hitting a few balls.

Sir Geoff bought the house for a reported £1.75m after living for a decade in Jersey (for health, rather than tax reasons, as he stressed at the time) but a huge amount has clearly been spent since then by one of Yorkshire's most famous sons. It'll be fascinating to see who is next to move in to take care of this beautiful home.

Boston Hall is on the market with Croft Residential via OnTheMarket at £2.85 million — see more details and pictures.

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Each year, the Good Hotel Guide releases a new and revised edition of its heralded selection of UK hotels, B&Bs and pubs with rooms. The guide is known for its independent approach, with unbiased recommendations based purely on the opinions of guests.

Central to that selection are the annual winners of their coveted Cesar awards; here, GHG's digital editor Bonnie Friend takes a look at their award-winning hotels to visit in 2020.

Southernhay House, Exeter

Simultaneously grand and intimate, Southernhay House in Exeter is a romantic Georgian townhouse brought to life by the expert design eye of owner Deborah Clark. High ceilings and a sense of grandeur give this place a sense of occasion, brimming with antiques and rich, carefully chosen colours that befit the historic architecture. Nonetheless, it’s also characterised by thoughtful details: local fudge in your room on arrival, a layout that feels a little like arriving at the home you always dreamed of having, and a menu that the smartest restaurants in London would be proud to serve.

southernhayhouse.com

Old Downton Lodge, Ludlow

Deep in the heart of the Shropshire countryside, Old Downton Lodge is a stylish hotel with a rustic vibe, created of a variety of converted barns and farm buildings in Ludlow. It has a medieval feel but with all the modern comforts. Tudor decor permeates the buildings, and an award-winning menu of local fare is served with aplomb.

www.olddowntonlodge.com

The Airds Hotel, Port Appin

The views are the star of the show at The Airds Hotel in Port Appin — or at least they’ll be the first thing that you notice. On the edge of Loch Linnhe (also pictured top) and with views to the Morvern mountains, its position is nothing short of breathtaking. Having started life as an early 18th-century ferry inn, today it’s a chic gourmet destination by Relais & Châteaux. So while the views are impressive, so is everything else. Soak with Bulgari toiletries, snuggle under Frette linen, and tuck into Scottish West Coast and home-grown produce at meal times.

www.airds-hotel.com

The Quay House, Clifden

Between the foothills of the Twelve Bens and the Owenglin river where it meets the Atlantic, The Quay House is like stepping back in time. Rich in character and warmth, this beautiful property is stylishly decorated with quirky antique, vintage and reproduction furniture, zebra stripes, regency stripes, curio upon curio, and yet it all works. A 19th-century harbourmaster’s house combined with four other houses brought together, it’s a deliciously welcoming escape where you can always rely upon a superb breakfast and plenty of home baked bread.

thequayhouse.com

Underleigh House, Hope

In a cul-de-sac lane in the Peak District national park, Underleigh House is a farmhouse B&B overlooking the beauty of Hope valley. With just four guest bedrooms, it’s an intimate retreat, where each room has its own characteristics; one, for example, has its own sitting room at a lower level, with a small fridge filled with local beer. In convivial style, breakfast is served communally with abundant marinated dried fruits and home-made muesli, and time stands still as you stroll outside or sit with a good book by the log burner in the lounge.

www.underleighhouse.co.uk

The Old Coastguard, Penzance

Owned by seasoned pros Charles and Edmund Inkin — proprietors of The Gurnard’s Head in Zennor and The Felin Fach Griffin — The Old Coastguard is somewhere that makes you feel totally spoiled. Here, elegant bedrooms look out over a pretty village and harbour, towards St Clement’s Island, and are all tastefully equipped with a Roberts radio, woollen blankets and Bramley toiletries. A blazing fire, bare floorboards and mismatched furniture come together harmoniously, and of course, you are only a short distance from the sea, making for a simply beautiful, restful location as well.

www.oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

Read’s, Faversham

An elegant Georgian manor house that looks like something from a BBC costume drama, Read’s in Faversham is unmistakeable with its smart red brick, canopy of cedar trees and elegant gardens. With six bedrooms it’s intimate and peaceful, priding itself on its food, created from local game and fish fresh from the quayside at nearby Whitstable and Hythe. The restaurant with rooms also has its own walled kitchen garden for herbs and vegetables.

reads.com

The Pipe and Glass Inn, South Dalton

Run by James and Kate Mackenzie, The Pipe and Glass Inn is a vibrant pub with rooms that has gained an international reputation as well as many major awards, including a Michelin star. Suffice to say, food and drink are very much at the heart of the experience, whether you’re having a rum-laced hot chocolate or a romantic three course meal. Meanwhile, rooms are contemporary and elegant but with cosy throws on the beds and beautifully design that’s different in each one.

www.pipeandglass.co.uk

North House, Cowes

Five minutes from the ferry, North House is an achingly-stylish Grade II listed town house that instantly makes you feel at home. Light and airy, it’s the perfect waterside hotel for romantic escapes. Each room has its own details to recommend it, some with a freestanding bath, some overlooking a courtyard garden. The seaside vibe is apparent but subtle, and dinner is nothing short of excellent.

northhousecowes.co.uk

The Angel Hotel, Abergavenny

A former Georgian coaching inn in the Welsh market town of Abergavenny, The Angel Hotel features rooms and suites peppered across the main house as well as former mews cottages. Tastefully decorated, it is a destination paying careful attention to details, from smart fabrics to award-winning afternoon teas featuring delicacies from the hotel’s bakery next door.

www.angelabergavenny.com

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Aqua Sana, Longleat, England

Recently relaunched, the Longleat Forest spa makes the most of its gorgeous surroundings. With five unique sections inspired by some of the world's most incredible natural phenomenons (you'll want to pay special attention to the Northern Lights steam room and the volcanic sauna), it's entirely a world to itself and well-worth the visit.

www.aquasana.co.uk

Hotel Ofutei, Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan

Hotel Ofutei in Tomonoura Onsen, Hiroshima, has a host open-air hot spring baths, where guests can enjoy clear sunlight and mornings whilst bathing, overlooking the calm sea of Tomonoura.

visithiroshima.net

Lazy You Spa at C Lazy U Ranch, Granby, Colorado

Some people want to disappear to America and ride a dude ranch, others want to relax in a forest spa. At The C Lazy U Spa in Colorado, you can do both. Surrounded by acres of untouched land, the spa is a collection of beautiful log cabins. Their signature treatment is called the Cowboy Copper Tub Soak, where guests can relax in a bathtub and enjoy incredible views of the Continental Divide mountain range in complete peace and tranquillity.

www.clazyu.com

‘The Shingo Onsen’, Hachinohe, Aomori Prefecture, Japan

Legend has it that an injured eagle was found in a local hot spring nursing a wound. Soon, the spring had cured it. The Shingo Onsen sources its water from the same spring, which claims to aid with muscle pain, poor circulation and other ailments. Tucked away in an idyllic mountain location, it’s as magical as its mythical history.

www.visithachinohe.com

Grotta Giusti, Pisa, Italy

Grotta Giusti takes practical, medicinal approach to healing therapies, all without compromising its beautiful surroundings and stunning property. The best example of this is their crown jewel; the largest underground cave in Europe, which sits underneath the property and is a staggering 130 million years old.

www.grottagiustispa.com

Sendai Akiu Spa, Hotel Iwanumaya, Miyagi Prefecture, Japan

Water straight from Akiu's main spring feeds into the hot-spring baths at Sendai Akiu Spa. If you're travelling around the Tohoku region, it's one to look out for.

www.iwanumaya.co.jp

Thalasso Spa, The Islands of Tahiti

The Thalasso Spa finds home in one of Bora Bora’s best resorts.  Their spa is the only spa in the entire country that drives fresh seawater from 3,000 feet below the surface to use as healing waters in hydro-massage baths, pearl rain massages and a ‘water journey’ treatment, which involves deep-relaxing jacuzzi’s and cold seawater pools with massaging jets.

www.ihg.com

Detox at Osmosis Day Spa, Sonoma County, California

You may not have heard of it since Year 9 science, but Osmosis is back in a big way. A California-based, Japanese-inspired spa, the Osmosis Day Spa has five relaxing garden areas and a host of interesting treatments. Experience a restorative treatment overlooking the meditative gardens while bathing in a mix of fine cedar shavings, rice bran and plant enzymes where temperatures reach up to 48 degrees. Don’t worry about overheating – attendants have cold cloths and ice water at the ready.

www.osmosis.com

The Scandinave Spa, Whistler

Great for long-haul travellers, skiers or snowboarders, the Scandinave Spa moves through a cycle of hot-cold-relax, proven to both energise and rest the body, improving blood circulation and aid detoxification. Hot cycles take place in eucalyptus steam rooms, outdoor hot baths, Finnish wood-burning saunas or dry saunas. The spa also hosts a Nordic waterfall, rain showers and cold plunges, as well as solariums beside outdoor firepits.

www.scandinave.com

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Sitting quietly on the Tuscan coastline, Pisa is best known for the slanting arcitecture in its city centre. And yet, there is so much more to this Italian region than its main attraction.

Inspired by salus per aquam (health through water), Pisa boasts a plethora of grand estates built around healing hotsprings, many of which have been transformed into wellness retreats.

With a singular focus on healing and wellbeing, Pisa is a fantastic escape from the rat race, where one can relax in healing water during the day and enjoy delicious (and yet somehow healthy) dishes in the evening, all the while surrounded by elegant history.

Where to stay to be immersed in history

Bagni Di Pisa drips with romanticism, sitting in the foothills of rolling mountains with a commanding view of Pisa. It’s entirely unsurprising that such a place inspired the likes of Byron and Shelley to produce some of their most famous works; it is widely assumed that Shelley’s Frankenstein was inspired by one Doctor Andrea Vaccà Berlinghieri, whom she met in what is now called the 'Shelley Lounge'.

Once an 18th century castle, Bagni di Pisa nods to its history and natural gifts whilst embracing all the comforts and luxuries of modern living. Ancient mud wraps sit aside modern technological remedies on their treatment list, while the natural springs which first drew royalty to build on the property at the centre of everything, from traditional thermal pools to medically-beneficial steam inhalation.

The ‘Equilibrium’ approach is at the heart of all that Bagni Di Pisa do. Their treatments, rooms and menus are based around the basic principle of maintaining a happy, healthy lifestyle, with everything in moderation. The philosophy revolves around stress release, exercise, nutrition and, of course, thermal water and its healing properties. Thankfully, it also comes with a healthy dose of beautiful Italian red wine.

Rooms along the second floor (the first, previously used as an entrance for horses and carriages, has been sympathetically converted into the hotel reception and stretches between the two hot spring wings) remain much as they would’ve been in Shelley’s time, with beautiful doomed ceilings, tiled floors and sprawling beds.

The galleria which stretches the length of the property had benefited from the addition of glass panes and leads to a wonderful hike further up the hill to the ‘Queen’s Tea Room’, a colonnade with wide vistas over the city.

Nightly rates at Bagni di Pisa start from €150 (around £137) per person per night in a Comfort room on a B&B basis. Rates also include wi-fi, access to spa, thermal pools and fitness facilities. For further information or to book please email booking@bagnidipisa.com. Click here to visit the website. 

Where to stay to be immersed in wellness

Grotta Giusti takes practical, medicinal approach to healing therapies, all without compromising its beautiful surroundings and stunning property.

The best example of this is their crown jewel; the largest underground cave in Europe, which sits underneath the property and is a staggering 130 million years old.

The natural ‘rooms’ all remain at different temperatures, depending on their position in the cave. Wandering through ‘paradiso’ is pleasantly warm and very beautiful. ‘Purgatorio’ can feel a little cloying and once you’ve reached ‘inferno’, sit in a relaxing deck chair and go no further.

Above ground, the hotel is a perfect, archetypal Italian country residence. The ceiling in the salon is beautifully painted and provides a wonderful place to rehydrate before dinner, after an afternoon in the thermal pools and grotto.

Nightly rates at Grotta Giusti start from €144 (around £132) per person per night in a Comfort room on a B&B basis. Rates also include wi-fi, access to spa and fitness facilities. For further information or to book please email booking@grottagiustiapa.com. Click here to visit the website. 

Things to do

• For the literary fanatics in our number, Bagni Di Pisa has put together a 'Time-Travel Experience' designed for guests to truly get their teeth into the roots of the author’s most famous work. The package include a theatre-like experience with actors performing the roles of Shelley and the good Doctor, as well as a dinner with 19th century dishes.

• Eat in 5-star restaurant Dei Lorena; the delicate fish set menu can only be beaten by the ‘Shelley’ menu, a collection of perfectly cooked meat dishes which, in the true Italian style, will leave you crying ‘no more’ and then promptly reaching for the dessert spoon. The wait staff promise the tiramisu to be the best in the world, after trying it, it can be hard to argue. The duck a l’orange risotto is life-changing.
• 'In Italy, wine is red'. Be sure to try the recommended wine to pair with your dish in both termes. After all, grapes are fruit.
• Visit the Hammam dei Granduchi at Bagni Di Pisa, a small natural cave perfect for one or two people to relax in the hot water, listening to the sound of the ever-running natural waterfall.

• Take a cocktail class at the Poeta Bar of Grotta Giusti - try to learn something which takes a little finesse, like a pisco sour or a negroni.
• Not for the faint of heart, it is possible to go diving in the vast underwater tunnels which stretch under Grotto Giusti’s caves.
• ‘Hot yoga’ is all the rage in Britain’s cities at the moment. Take a step back in time and try thermal yoga in the grotto itself on Sunday mornings – an invigorating start to the day, like any trip to the spas, it’s important to hydrate afterwards.
• If you've made it this far, you'll be impressed that we've come all this way without once mentioning the Leaning Tower of Pisa. It really is a marvel, begun in the 12th century but not finished for 200 years, even its own website describes it as 'a massive wedding cake knocked precariously askew by a clumsy giant guest'. Marvellous.

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‘There’s a beach for every day of the year,’ is something they’re fond of saying on the Caribbean island of Antigua. And while it’s a catchy line, we’ve never been entirely convinced of how much of a draw it really is for a visitor with a week or two to spare. Wouldn’t it be better to have one truly superb slice of paradise on your doorstep to enjoy the island’s harmony of relaxation, West Indian culture and natural beauty?

Thankfully, the Carlisle Bay resort offers exactly that, a secluded treasure that takes full advantage of a location nestled in a private cove in the south-west of the island set amid lush tropical plants, pristine sea and white sand.

This part of the island benefits from a light breeze, so the air is fresh and revitalizing rather than humid, and it glides gently in across private balconies through sliding bedroom into the 87 suites, which all face sweeping ocean views. The contemporary design of the rooms is aimed at understated luxury: think muted tones dappled with cyan blue furnishings that bring the sea’s colour indoors and an effortless wave of nautical chic that fills the expansive quarters.

The bathrooms follow suit, decked with double sinks, rainforest style showers and tubs that could drown a small hippo where you can have a dip while overlooking luscious jungle. The vast beds are gloriously comfortable and compete with their al fresco compatriots on the verandas, perfect for a daytime snooze in the shade.

Down at the beach there’s just as much opportunity to relax, slinking into a beach bed or hammock for a blissful few hours – there are also floating, sea hammocks where you can while away the days semi-submerged in the glorious salt water.

The place isn’t just about relaxing in the sunshine — as you’ll see in the Things to Do section below, Carlisle Bay offers a huge range of activities — but for a place to do so the island is truly spectacular. This West Indian paradise is home to an abundance of Caribbean wildlife and plants and the hotel’s gardens are meticulously cared for.

A tenderly cultivated jungle of tropical species fringes the maze of pathways, giving privacy among bursts of rich colour and floral aromas. Palm trees sway in the breeze above skittering mongooses that scurry through the underbrush. Antillean bullfinch, bananaquits and hummingbirds dart about, perching mischievously on breakfast tables or natter around the lagoon-like pool. At the end of the jetty are flying fish under surveillance from beady-eyed brown pelicans – slivers of their scales glint enticingly above the water in the dipping sun, like a dance of samurai swords.

Achieving an informal sophistication, the hotel is a phenomenon of understated luxury. With a total lack of pretension while offering discreet and personal service, Carlisle Bay breathes authentic West Indian allure. The staff are part of the furniture – many of them have been employed there for over a decade and their natural charm permeates the grounds. The resulting, unique spirit of the place is catching – it’s no wonder so many guests return time and time again.

Food and drink

Indigo on the Beach, the main dining area of the four restaurants at the resort, is an open-air affair with spectacular views along the bay offering hearty salads, catch of the day (I’d recommend the Mahi Mahi), and European dishes. Live national music can be enjoyed on selected evenings. It also makes for the perfect breakfast spot to indulge on home-baked cakes and pastries, fresh fruit salads, stewed dates and prunes and, of course, anything from the extensive cooked breakfast menu.

For something a little different, the East serves eclectic Asian cuisine at dinner with a particularly exquisite sushi menu. Ottimo! is a casual poolside eatery where Italian food is cooked over a wood fire, while in the evening authentic island cuisine is dished up at the Jetty Grill, with grilled food and salads including goat curries and Caribbean jerk.

Things to do

Trekking Boggy Peak

Join the trek up Mount Obama’s ‘Boggy Peak’ – the highest point of the island. The guides are knowledgeable and informative on local wildlife. Learn how the Indians introduced silk cotton trees to make canoes, or how the locals still use orange tree leaves to make tea, and the liquid from cacti, hibiscus and aloe as shampoo or as antiseptic. Of course, these teachings come with a glittering of amusing anecdotes.

Keep the kids busy

Where Carlisle Bay succeeds most is in its ability to host families, couples and singles alike, all without disturbing each other’s experience. Families are housed at one side of the beach, near the Kids’ Club – a child’s nirvana with an abundance of toys, baby pool and inflatables as well as various creative programmes for girls and boys of all ages. There is a nanny service throughout the day, babysitting in the evenings and a private cinema that seats up to 45 and offers a selection of DVDs for both children and adults.

Sports on the beach

With an impressive mix of complimentary non-motorised sports available; from cycling, basketball, volleyball, sailing, peddle boats, paddle boarding, kayaking and wind surfing, to power-boat sports like jet-ski or speed-boating, guests of any age are spoilt for choice.

Underwater adventures

Snorkelling or diving on the nearby reef is unmissable. Cruise your way by private boat to ogle at the beauty of the Caribbean marine life. You'll be entranced by the many shoals of fish sporting electric blue spots or jagged yellow fins; the little characters quiver and jab at volcanic coral, rummaging for algae. And keep your eyes peeled for Stingrays lurking under the sand – you can watch their majestic wings propel them, billowing and gliding to the next undisturbed resting ground.

Afterwards you can take a trip up the coast to visit some of the stunning bays — and some of those other 364 beaches — while enjoying lunch and a bar onboard.

Turtle spotting

Known as 'a gift from the Gods' by Antigua’s early Indian inhabitants, Hawksbill turtles bob their mottled shells on the water’s surface. They are protected around the island and you can watch their heads poke out from the sea in the early evening.

Spa treatments and shopping

After an active morning at the fully equipped gym, sunrise yoga on the jetty, or perhaps some tennis coaching on one of the nine courts, purge any stubborn stress at the Blue Spa. To rid tension I’d recommend the West Indian Massage – a blissful body kneading session with a choice of oils will leave you in a compliantly vegetative state. Nip to the sauna and plunge pool, with its award winning natural seaweed skincare products by VOYA.

The resort also hosts its own boutique gift shop with holiday essentials and beach fashion. Heidi Klein has collaborated with the hotel to design an eponymous Carlisle Bay inspired range of deluxe designer swimwear, available to purchase on site.

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As far as islands that are occupied by wild animals go, Okunoshima, better known as Usaga Jima or Rabbit Island, is probably the cutest. It's also the most appropriate to visit at this time of year, as the Easter Bunny makes the arduous trip to our shores from the magical land of 'What-Do-You-Mean-He-Isn't-Real?' .

The small island, only a fifteen minute ferry ride from the mainland, is occupied by hundreds of wild rabbits that roam the forests and paths. Although wild, the Flopsies Mopsies and Cottontails are remarkably tame and always keen for a pat - it is advised that one doesn't pick them up, however, as the rabbits do not have health insurance and would struggle to pay their bills should an escape attempt lead to injury.

Much like many animal-dominated areas (think: St Mark's Square in Venice for pigeons or Boulder's Beach in Cape Town for penguins) humans are certainly the secondary concern on Okunoshima. However, unlike St Mark's, visitors are actively encouraged to hand-feed the rabbits from food available to purchase on the island. If you're planning a trip, buy some carrots and cabbage on the mainland. Your new furry friends will love you for it.

The origin of the rabbits on the island is as unclear as its harrowing history is apparent. Wiped from unclassified maps in the area during the 1930s and 1940s, Okunoshima was used as a base to test chemical weapons of war; the juxtaposition of fluffy rabbits and the Okunoshima Poison Gas Museum cannot escape the notice of even the most avid lotus-eating traveller among our number.

For the die-hard coney-lover who would not be able to bear anything less than a sleepover, Rabbit Island offers a remarkably well-equipped hotel (just the one, mind you, it's a very small island) with a pool, tennis court and golf course.

Water pans are abundant around the hotels to hydrate the rabbits on the lower parts of the island who don't have access to natural springs - guests are encouraged to fill up these water pans whenever possible to contribute to the care of the enclave's adorable residents.

For more information or to plan a trip to Setouchi and Rabbit Island, visit www.setouchitrip.com.

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Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa, New Milton, New Forest

Chewton Glen is the grand dame of the country house hotel and spa and I’m happy to announce that its crown isn’t going anywhere, quite yet.

For 2019 the spa has introduced it’s own vegan product range, in partnership with OSKIA – a British manufactured and multi-award winning skincare brand. The body butters, body oils, bath salts and scrubs were inspired by the surrounding landscape – make sure you explore the grounds and woodland (cedar and wild blackberry) and nearby beaches (sea salt and water mint) while you are there.

OSKIA treatments are also available in the spa – try the Glow On The Go facial for a quick, 45-minute pick-me-up – as well as Natura Bissé, my new favourite. The Citrus Essence facial is perfect for this time of year; the zingy, Vitamin C rich products leaving skin visibly plumper and brighter. They also smell delicious. For a full body experience add on the Citrus Body Scrub.

'Luxuriate in your own whirlpool Jacuzzi on the extravagantly large terrace'

The hotel still boasts the first and largest hydrotherapy pool of its kind, in the UK, a 17 metre Roman-themed indoor swimming pool – perfect for lounging by post-treatments – and fun extras including a crystal sauna steam room and, for the brave, cold drench showers.

If you’d rather relax in private ask for The Marryat Suite and luxuriate in your own whirlpool Jacuzzi on the extravagantly large terrace.

Interiors ere on the right side of traditional – plush red carpets, patterned wallpaper and grand, wooden staircases – and the odd creaking floorboard only adds to the appeal.

Downstairs you’ll find The Dining Room – resplendent in soft greys and fresh greens. A jewel in the hotel’s aforementioned crown, it’s been quietly serving up flawless, British food (many ingredients have travelled less than 90 metres, from the hotel’s kitchen garden) for decades. The hotel’s current executive chef, Luke Matthews, appeared on Masterchef and the dishes he created for the popular TV show are marked on the menu.

There might be a lot of new kids on the country house hotel block, but Chewton Glen proves that ‘youth is no guarantee of innovation.’

Double rooms from £325 (www.chewtonglen.com)

St Michaels, Falmouth, Cornwall

A devoted North Cornwall holidaymaker, it took something special to lure me into the south of the county. The world’s first Cornish seat salt steam room, to be specific.

Following multi-million-pound investment and a facelift, St Michaels reopened in Autumn last year to much fanfare. New bedrooms in a separate, standalone building feature floor to ceiling, beachy wood headboards; there are two new restaurants; a wellness walkway links the spa to a 13,000 square foot health club, for both guests and members.

I stayed shortly after the Christmas period, weary from the constant travelling and entertaining and heavy from the constant feeding. A much-needed morning yoga class set me up for the day ahead – the sea salt steam cleared my head, a rhassoul mud treatment helped detoxify my skin and the ridiculously large hydrotherapy pool with innumerable massage stations and beds ensured I emerged from my Cornish cocoon revitalised and refreshed. Elemis are the brand of choice across the ten treatments rooms, but I loved Made for Life Organics – handmade in Cornwall using local botanicals.

'I’m already planning my return with a group of likeminded girlfriends'

As well as a fantastic main restaurant, Brassiere of the Bay, there’s the Garden Kitchen. Accessed through the main hotel or the spa, it’s more laid back and serves up surprisingly good stone-baked pizzas, smoothies and healthy salads.

The overall atmosphere is informal, light and beach-inspired and though popular with couples and families alike, I’m already planning my return with a group of likeminded girlfriends.

It’s worth getting outside to explore hotel’s sub tropical gardens and blue flag Gyllyngvase beach beyond, Falmouth itself and surrounding costal paths. In town you’ll find Rick Stein’s infamous fish and chips, retro dining at The Wheel House and harbour views at The Star & Garter Pub. Cream teas at Gylly Beach Café are also encouraged.

Double rooms from £98 (www.stmichaelshotel.co.uk)

Bamford Haybard, Brompton Cross, London

Visited by Louise Lomax for a pregnancy massage.

Bamford's latest outpost in London feels a world away from the city. Very well designed space, gorgeously white!

Alex my therapist was very friendly and incredibly polite. The treatment rooms all include private bathrooms so I was able to change into my fluffy robe with space to move and no time constraints – a must for a 7 month pregnant woman. Wrestling with the removal of layers of clothes with a big bump is a surprisingly time consuming task.

Once ‘robed’ I walked back out into the treatment room and Alex explained the treatment and the process; I should lie on my side with thoughtfully placed pillows for my comfort while he works on my shoulders, back and legs.

'I’ve had a couple of pregnancy massages where pressure is too light and therapists are too terrified to do your feet in case it prompts labour – it doesn’t!'

I happened to be suffering from something called meralgia paresthetica which caused numbness and shooting pains on one side of the hip/thigh area. It’s caused by a trapped nerve and common in pregnancy. Alex spent extra time on this hip and leg area to relieve the discomfort and I really felt the benefit afterwards.

Overall the massage was great. Just the right amount of pressure and included the feet. I’ve had a couple of pregnancy massages where pressure is too light and therapists are too terrified to do your feet in case it prompts labour (it doesn’t!) so I really felt like Alex knew his stuff and I got the maximum benefit from the treatment. Bamford uses unscented grape seed oil for pregnancy massages – it's completely safe and leaves your skin feeling super soft for ages.

There was no hurry to leave the treatment room after the massage and there was readily-offered tea and water in the lovely store upstairs from the

An expert treatment and an experience which is well thought out for pregnancy. Highly recommended for any future mothers out there!

Spa treatments from £70, Pregnancy massage £120 (www.bamford.com)

Meadow Spa at Thyme, Southrop, Cotswolds

Visited by Jade Bousfield.

There couldn’t be a better time to visit The Thyme estate. The hotel has been under-going exciting renovations, and their new destination restaurant, Ox Barn, (headed up by Charlie Hibbert) opened late last year.

So I rolled down idyllic winding country lanes to Southrop, with relaxation on my mind.

The Meadow spa, located in the hotel’s Greenhouse, is immediately calming – warm, but not stuffy, with fresh botanicals set around the room, instilling a lovely sense of tranquillity. On the central table (tastefully placed around the on-trend cucumber-infused water) are fresh cuttings of fragrant herbs, filling the room with a glorious scent – natural ingredients are a big focus. Thyme is renowned for its garden-to-table eating, and you can spot all the herbs growing through the greenhouse windows – you can’t get much more organic than that.

Our therapist greets us warmly and sits us down in the Meadow Cottage to talk us through their bespoke menu of Thyme treatments. Each option we were offered can be specifically tailored to your mood, and the therapist really listened to what we wanted to get out of the experience.

I opted for the Aurelia ritual for skin, body & mind (this is Aurelia Probiotic Skincare’s first foray into spa treatments), an indulgent but absolutely essential 90 minutes of bliss. I found myself so completely relaxed, I very nearly forgot where I was altogether. I floated out of the treatment room, in a surreal state of mind. Later, wrapped in the softest of robes, the therapist lead me to a relaxation area, where I curled up on plump, white cushions and read the latest Country Life in peace.

Taking a dip in the new fresh spring water swimming pool brought me back to earth. The therapist mentioned the water is taken from the natural underground source that flows deep below the meadows on the farm, and is filtered without the use of chemicals.

Thoroughly rejuvenated, I head back to normal life calmer, happier and definitely more pleasant to be around.

Spa treatments from £65 (www.thyme.co.uk)

Credit: Neil Watson

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One of the beauties of the Alps in winter is that they cater to everyone. Some places offer several hundred of miles of pistes; some have culture and views to die for; others offer the most opulent lifestyle imaginable – with prices to match, as anyone who’s had a €50 bill for a hamburger will attest.

At La Clusaz, however, the charms of skiing in the Alps remains simple. It’s a charming, traditional little town in a heartbreakingly pretty setting, where you can still have lunch without taking out a second mortgage.

It’d been six years since my last visit, so after a refresher at the Snow Centre in Hemel Hempstead I headed out to La Clusaz – an hour from Geneva, which itself is the same from Gatwick – to enjoy a few days in this traditional resort in south-eastern France. And after a brief pitstop to drop off bags at the St Alban Hotel, I set off in search of the floodlit slopes of Manigod, the largest nocturnal ski area in Savoie Mont Blanc. It was a great icebreaker for the trip and as well as a unique experience, it helped blow off any cobwebs. After an hour on the slopes we stopped off at the Restaurant Happy Chalet and tucked into the amazing Savoyard speciality of Tartiflette with salad. It’d been a while, but I was back in the Alps with a big smile on my face.

The La Clusaz-Manigod ski area boasts 120km of downhill slopes, with 52 ski lifts able to cope with almost 60,000 skiers an hour, and breathtaking views towards Mont Blanc from Le Plateau de Beauregard.

With the help of an instructor to help me shake off the snowboard rust, I started off on the wide blue slopes on a quiet Sunday, the perfect way to get back into form and build up an appetite for lunch at La Vielle Ferme will live long in the memory due to the amazing brasserade and equally superb reblochonnade.

In the evening we headed back to the hotel, the brand new and thoughtfully-styled Hotel St Alban. Like the resort itself it has a simple but cosy feel, and with 48-rooms it remains small enough to feel friendly and intimate – a sensation aided further by friendly and attentive staff.

Rooms are decorated in a clean, unfussy way, and there’s an on-site ski shop which made it incredibly quick and easy to pick up gear and head to the slopes – either via the free shuttle bus or a 10 minute walk. The hotel also offers has a few unusual touches including a tapas bar and a spa with pool, sauna, salt wall, sensory shower and ice cave.

With the cobwebs blown off my technique, next up was Le Grand Bornand, a short trip from La Clusaz via taxi or (free) shuttle bus, where my group was greeted by the most glorious weather and a vast array of runs. It’s a great ski resort that’s perfect for families, kids and beginners, with some wide green and blue runs that are a great place to learn and improve. Yet there’s also a variety of more challenging runs which the advanced skier or boarder would enjoy – a good place for a mixed group, in other words.

If you’re feeling brave, Le Grand Bornand has a great slalom course, complete with timer which you can activate with your lift pass as you head off. You’ll also get a video of your no-doubt-impeccably-smooth turns (ahem) waiting for you at the bottom. Lunch at the rustic L’Esperluette was spot-on, just the tonic before heading out again for an afternoon on the slopes.

Le Clusaz is a lovely place for a skiing break that has a friendly, rustic, non-commercial and local vibe. Everyone from ski instructors and lift operators to the waiting staff in the restaurants we visited could scarcely have been nicer, with a pace of life that makes it a wonderful spot to escape from your hectic life.

Inghams offers a seven-night ski holiday on a bed & breakfast basis at the four-star Hotel St Alban in La Clusaz, France, from £859 per person based on two sharing in January 2020. Price includes return flights and airport transfers. Weekly equipment hire can be pre-booked from £100 per adult and collected from the hotel’s own ski hire shop on arrival. Whole area, six-day lift passes can be pre-booked from £202 per adult, with an €11 supplement for a night skiing session. To book, visit www.inghams.co.uk/ski-holidays or call 01483 791 114. 

Food and drink

Alpine food is always something of a treat, and the traditional Savoyard speciality of tartiflette with salad at Restaurant Happy Chalet in Manigod was particularly good, while at nearby La Vielle Ferme you’d be mad not to order the brasserade and reblochonnade; nothing warms you up more than grilled local cheese and steak.

If you want an excuse to swap the ski gear for something smarter then the Bistro Les 2 Mules in La Clusaz is a lovely option with a touch of fine dining at a reasonably price, with a choice of three courses for €38. And if you’re after something different again, try the new Restaurant Sushi Fumi

While you’re there

Ski joëring

Why ski downhill when you can ski along the flat, being towed by a horse? If that’s a question that’s always bugged you then you’ll need to give ski joëring a try. €29 per person for an introductory session.

www.aravis-equitation.com/activites/ski-joering

Paret

If that gives you the bug for trying alternate Alpine activities then there are all manner of other options in the area, including ice skating, snowshoeing, paragliding, bowling, dog sledding and 'paret'. The latter is an old-fashioned luge which, from the looks of the positioning of that handle, seems designed specifically to make the prospect of a high-speed sledging crash even more terrifying than it might otherwise be.

See www.annecymountains.com and www.laclusaz.com for more area information.

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Built as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Bedford in the 18^th century, the Bedford Lodge and Spa became a hotel in the 1940s. It’s a place to stay that’s a ten-minute canter from the centre of this bustling market town, a place that’s the spiritual home of British horse racing, with over 50 stables and 3,500 racehorses.

The hotel has been altered and extended over the years – not least with the addition of the spa, which opened in 2013 – and now has 77 rooms and offers a real mix of modern and Georgian look.

We booked in to a twin room which was very pleasant without being spectacular, nicely decorated and with Molton Brown toiletries in the bathroom. In the evening, we had dinner in the hotel’s restaurant, a beautifully-decorated space whose lemon sole was superb, perfectly cooked and almost falling off the bone.

There was a lot to like, but we did run into one or two issues. On a chilly Autumn night the room was so hot we could have smelted iron, and we had to open a window to cool down. There was also a snafu at dinner: though mine was superb, my friend’s Thai green curry arrived as plain boiled rice alongside a piece of dry chicken, not a drop of curry sauce in sight. The kitchen did manage to rustle some up, but by the time it arrived the appetite for it had gone.

Things to do

The Spa at Bedford Lodge

The hotel’s spa isn’t attached to the main hotel building is a short walk across a gravel drive – there’s a lounge there, so if spending the day you needn’t traipse back and forth and risk spoiling your zen.

The spa is equipped with a hydrotherapy pool, outdoor rooftop hot tub, thermal area with sauna, steam room and ‘hammam’ – a Turkish bath.

I was checked in by the very friendly ladies on reception for a ‘Deeply Relaxing Lavender Floatation Treatment’. If that doesn’t mean much to you, I’ll confess I had absolutely no idea what to expect either. The answer proved to be getting ‘foil-wrapped like a Christmas turkey’ (my therapist’s description, not mine) after being exfoliated and covered in lavender oil.

I was then laid on a what looked unnervingly like a pool table covered with a tarpaulin, which proved to have warm water beneath. That was slightly disconcerting at first (Could it leak? Would it? How would I escape without the use of my arms?) and I initially struggled to feel the promised ‘soothe, smooth and de-stress’, but the chilled music, dimmed lighting and beautiful aroma from the candles did the trick after a while and I enjoyed a tranquil 30 minutes that proved blissful.

Horseracing and heritage

If you come during the flat racing season – roughly April to October – you’ll probably get down to a meeting, but even if there’s nothing on this is a great spot for the equine lover. Get up before breakfast and wander along to the town centre gallops to watch grooms and their steeds pounding the turf.

Other local attractions include, the new National Horseracing Museum and a National Gallery of British Sporting Art. There is a ‘Discover Newmarket’ tour that offers a unique opportunity to visit racing’s headquarters. Group or individual tours are available. See www.discovernewmarket.co.uk

Cambridge

Just a 30 minute drive along the A14 is the charming university town of Cambridge, where you can pursue the shops along the cobbled streets or have a punt on the Cam.

Spa breaks at the Bedford Lodge Hotel & Spa start from £394 for two people, including a treatment, lunch in the spa, use of spa, three-course dinner and bed and breakfast. The Deeply Relaxing Lavender Floatation Treatment costs £60 for 60 minutes. bedfordlodgehotel.co.uk

Credit: Gleneagles Hotel, Scotland

The Gleneagles Hotel review: Heaven in the Highlands

The Gleneagles Hotel review: Heaven in the Highlands

Credit: 11 Cadogan Gardens PR team

11 Cadogan Gardens hotel review: An SW3 refuge for the country-house owner dragged into London

In a city where more and more hotels now have the charm and individuality of a suburban shopping centre, 11

A Dartmoor manor house with its own hydro-electricity, and space for horses and helicopters

Holystreet Manor lies in a sweep of the River Teign and some magnificent ancient woodland.

Credit: The Pointer, Brill

The Pointer, Brill: A hotel, pub and restaurant oozing character and class

The Pointer has won all sorts of awards in the last few months, but does it justify all the acclaim?

Helen Browning’s Royal Oak: An idyllic Wiltshire spot with pigs, pies, pints and pillows

Helen Browning's organic food empire stretches to a farm, restaurant and a lovely country pub with beautifully-done rooms. Country Life

Designed by Hugh Petter at Adam Architecture, 45, The Park (which appeared in the February 23, 2006 issue of Country Life) has won several prestigious awards and agents call it ‘arguably the best address in Cheltenham’.

On the market with Savills at a guide price of £4 million, The Park is set in one of the most complete Regency towns in England, which has been a health and holiday destination since mineral springs were discovered in the area in 1716.

Resting peacefully on the edge of the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding National Beauty, Cheltenham is one of the most desirable places to live in England, known for its prestigious schools and grand houses.

45 The Park is one of these grand houses, winner of the Georgian Group’s Giles Worsley Architectural Award 2008 among other prestigious prizes. Reached by a tree-lined avenue and surrounded by former pleasure gardens, it sits just outside the town centre, combining easy access to amenities with all the benefits of a quiet countryside retreat.

Pevsners Buildings of England described The Park as ‘reminiscent of Regents Park in London’, less than 100 miles away from this desirable address.

45 The Park boasts a stunning toplit cantilevered stone staircase, which is quietly classical in its design; a description that characterizes the architecture of the house as a whole.

The dining room is circular while the sitting room is octagonal, placed directly below the identically-shaped master bedroom, which comes complete with a dressing room and private en-suite.

In addition to these rooms come 5 further en-suite bedrooms, a library, a swimming pool and a tennis court.

The Park is on the market with Savills at a guide price of £4 million. Click here for more information and pictures.

Credit: Strutt & Parker

Extravagant, nine bedroom family home, just a stone's throw from central London

Deepdene is a peaceful, palatial countryside dwelling within easy each of all the amenities London has to offer.

Credit: Knight Frank

A glorious Berkshire house with gardens by Arne Maynard, within easy reach of London and Oxford

Chieveley House is a beautifully-restored country house in an unspoiled Berkshire village within easy reach of London and Oxford.

Dreamy Cotswold farmhouse complete with excellent equestrian facilities and a party barn

Bosmere Farm is a wonderful family house in a stunning rural setting.

Credit: Knight Frank

A Grade II-listed former rectory, once owned by Britain’s leading postwar racing car designer

The Old Rectory at Widdington in Essex, the previous home of Brian Lister, has long been one of the most

From its elevated position high on the sloping cliffside overlooking the sweeping expanse of Saunton Sands, fringed by the coarse grass topped dunes of Braunton Burrows, Chalet Saunton enjoys truly epic views of North Devon’s rugged Atlantic coastline.

The three-mile-long golden sandy beach, which is so photogenic that Pink Floyd shot the cover of their 13th album A momentary lapse of reason there, has long drawn people to the area, especially as, unusually, dogs are allowed to dip their paws in the waves all year round. There’s also a surf school at the end of the footpath (Walking on Waves, run by champion surfer Sarah Whiteley) that leads direct from the Chalet, via a decked boardwalk, to the sea.

Given that Chalet Saunton’s owner, Tim Fleming – who built this slate-coloured shrine to minimalism and open plan living on the site of his boyhood home in 2017 – allows guests to bring their dogs and provides (warm) outdoor taps to wash off pooches and surfing gear, as well as a place to store boards and wet suits, all seven apartments are ideal for those who love the outdoors.

Inside, decor is clean and cool with white cotton bedlinen, pale grey marble bathrooms, state of the art appliances (we loved the Nespresso coffee machine, complete with a milk frother), cosy underfloor heating and striking artwork, including lots of moody black and white photographs. This is very much an ‘apart-hotel’, offering a contemporary take on traditional self-catering properties: there’s no chintz or net curtains here.

However, apart from the huge, light-filled rooms and being able to contact the super efficient housekeeper Lisa – who can arrange baby-, dog-sitting and shopping – at any time of the day or night, the most captivating charm of this sleek property is the Crittall French doors that afford a mesmerising window on a dramatic coastline that’s just as beguiling on a dark, stormy night, when the roaring waves crash onto the shore, as it is on a bright, sparkly day, when the aquamarine sky almost merges with the silvery, shimmering sea.

A stay at Chalet Saunton costs from £350 per night for a three-bedroom apartment that sleeps six, on a self-catering basis, including a welcome hamper of local produce and ilapothecary shampoos, conditioners and scented candles. 01271 890514 or see www.chaletsaunton.com for more details.

Where to eat

You’ll definitely need a car, as, although it’s possible to walk (barefoot) to the beach in five minutes, the Chalet is located three miles from Braunton and 20 minutes from Ilfracombe, where we enjoyed succulent scallops, crab claws, a whole Lundy lobster and crunchy, goose-fat cooked chips at the excellent Quay restaurant. Very sadly it seems to have closed down since we went – hopefully somebody new will step in, for it'd a be a great shame for this town to lose a restaurant whose upstairs tables are set in a white wooden-boarded room that resembles the inside of a boat, with big glass windows that allow diners to watch the sun set into the sea.

We also feasted on a fantastic fish and chip supper from Squires in Braunton which we ate from the wrapping paper while sat out on the wraparound terrace at the Chalet.

Things to do

We spent our days walking our three dogs (Labrador puppy, Nimrod, springer spaniel, Sam, and terrier Chester Lester) on the beach and exploring the local villages, such as Croyde and Combe Martin, as well at the bigger towns such as Ilfracombe – home to Damien Hirst’s controversial, but arresting, 66ft tall statue Verity, depicting a naked pregnant woman holding aloft a sword, that stands on the pier at the entrance to the harbour.

If we were staying longer, however, we may well have gone riding at Roylands Riding Stables, ventured along the South West Coastal Path or cycled along the Tarka Trail.

Featuring some 32 miles of cycle paths – all the way from Braunton to Meeth with Barnstaple, Instow, Bideford and Great Torrington in between – the route follows the journey taken by Tarka the Otter in Henry Williamson’s classic tale.

Golfers can head to the Saunton Sands Golf Club to try their hand at the two, 18-hole courses located in the depths of Braunton Burrows (a UNESCO world heritage site) once described as a ‘wonderfully absorbing challenge’ by Sir Nick Faldo.

More dog-friendly hotels

Soar Mill Cove Hotel, Devon

In one of the most beautiful locations along the South Devon coastline, Soar Mill Cove perches in a dip in the landscape, with uninterrupted views of the sea, and a beach that could almost be considered private.

Like an escape back to a bygone era, it is elegant whilst welcoming families, with plenty to do including tennis courts and a swimming pool and spa. Many rooms have their own terraces, and lots of space for dogs to relax with their owners. All they ask is for a a nominal fee of £10 a night per pooch.

Hipping Hall, Lancashire

For those looking to explore the Yorkshire Dales, Hipping Hall provides country style alongside contemporary hospitality. A refurbished property dating back to the 18th century, many of the rooms and suites are located in the former stables, whilst other areas of the property enjoy a history as far back as the 15th century.

Providing intrigue and elegance all in one go, it is a longstanding favourite of Good Hotel Guide reviewers, with five dog friendly bedrooms in the stables, and also permitting dogs in the orangery.

The Sun Inn, Lake District

Set between the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales National Parks, The Sun Inn is an understated pub with rooms style destination, dating back to the 17th century. Despite its modest nature, this inn holds many an award for its warm welcome and carefully considered details such as carpets woven from local wool.

A favourite amongst walkers, dogs are welcomed with a complimentary ‘pooch pack’ on arrival including a towel, a dog bowl and a special doggy treat and a dog trail map provided, including a short walk immediately from the door.

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Credit: Bottle & Glass Inn, Binfield

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Have dog, will travel... easy ways to make that long journey smoother

After a childhood spent travelling the world with his late father, Louis Heren – the legendary foreign correspondent of The Times, whose long career saw extended postings to the world’s most troubled hotspots – Patrick Heren, a successful writer himself, has clearly inherited his sire’s dogged patience and persistence in pursuit of life’s goals.

Nowhere were these qualities shown to greater effect than during the acquisition and renovation by Mr Heren and his wife, the interior designer and gardener Fiona Cadwallader, of historic, Grade II*-listed Watergate House at Fordwich, England’s smallest town. On the banks of the River Stour, two miles downstream from Canterbury, it’s 18 miles from the Cinque Port of Sandwich, of which Fordwich was a limb. After nearly 20 years of the Herens' stewardship, this blissful retreat in all its glory – with seven reception rooms, seven bedrooms and four bathrooms – is for sale at £2,500,000 via Strutt & Parker.

‘When we first saw the house in 1997, it wasn’t in good shape, but we both fell in love with it and its wonderful walled garden leading down to the river,’ explains Mr Heren.

‘We soon realised that it would take a small fortune to properly renovate the house and landscape the garden, which was totally overgrown and scattered with old outbuildings that were falling apart.

‘We put in a silly offer – it was refused by the elderly owner, but we kept coming back and eventually bought it for slightly more than the asking price, in 1999.’

The couple then spent the next eight years and the anticipated ‘small fortune’ (and more) restoring the house from top to bottom, and Fiona set about creating Watergate’s romantic hortus inclusus – an English country garden in miniature, enclosed by ancient walls and invisible from the exterior except through chinks in the original iron water gates leading to the river.

A surprising lack of historical information relating to the house prompted Mr Heren to undertake a thorough search of local and national archives. It transpired that Watergate House was originally the manor house of Fordwich, owned by the powerful St Augustine’s Abbey from Saxon times until the Dissolution in 1535.

Despite its small size, the importance of the manor was its control of the port of Fordwich and the wealth derived from dues levied on cargoes discharged at St Augustine’s Wharf, which, together with the manor house, the old Court Hall, the port offices and warehouses, occupied the site of the present-day Watergate House and garden. The most prestigious cargo unloaded there, in the 12th to 14th centuries, was the Caen stone shipped from Normandy for use in the construction of Canterbury Cathedral.

Watergate House, as it now stands, comprises at least two buildings of varying dates, with some internal survivals of the medieval manor. The oldest part of the house is the two-storey, former Abbot’s Bailiff’s House at the western end, which dates from about 1400 and was partly demolished in the early 19th century.

The main, three-storey part of the former manor was rebuilt in brick in about 1560, when it was owned by a wealthy merchant called John Johnson. Three generations of Johnsons lived there for 60 years or more.

The house was then held by various owners until, in 1765, John Blaxland, from an old Kentish family, bought the manor and, at some point, had the front of the house refaced in brick, in the Georgian style.

In 1805, his sons, Gregory and John, decided to emigrate to Australia, the first non-convicts to do so. In 1813, Gregory Blaxland discovered a route over the Blue Mountains, which allowed the colony to expand into the interior; he’s also credited with making the first Australian wine.

Thereafter, the former manor house fell on hard times until, in 1852, it was bought as the parish rectory, remaining so until 1947, when the Rev Dr Charles Phillips, a church historian, took the living. A single man, he found it too large for his needs, so a new rectory was built nearby and the existing one sold and renamed Watergate House.

It passed through several hands between then and 1999, when its current owners embarked on their admirable restoration programme.

Watergate House is for sale via Strutt & Parker – see more pictures and details.

The Kent manor with an original Tudor fireplace and space for a string of horses

Not only is Solton Manor one of Kent's most beautiful country houses, but it also boasts an interesting and chequered

Credit: Rex/Shutterstock

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Even in these uncertain times, £120,000 doesn't buy you much in the way of property. In London, it'll get you a part-share of a one-bedroom flat; in Sheffield you might find a partially-gutted terraced house.

Further afield, however, it'll get you a little more: an entire 13-acre island to call your own. That's what is on offer with the sale of Eilean Nan Gabhar, a rarely visited island on the Argyll coast, currently for sale with Galbraith.

Situated on Argyll’s west coast – often referred to as the 'Secret Coast' for its rarely explored historic villages and deserted beaches – the island is a two hour drive from Glasgow and easily accessible from the jetty at Old Poltalloch, while still being far enough from the mainland to be a world completely of its own.

Eilean Nan Gabhar lies close to the village of Ardfern, where evidence of habitation can be traced to prehistoric times. The earliest church on the island dates back to before the 12^th century and the village remains small even today, with only 400 permanent residents.

The breathtaking Loch Craiglish provides a picturesque background for any occasion, even featuring in the 1963 Bond film From Russia With Love – in a boat chase which began in Greece but ended in Scotland.

Owned by the same family for over 70 years, the 13-acre property remains almost completely untouched by man or time. The east side of the island naturally provides the perfect conditions for mooring, while a sheltered cove offers the possibility of a pontoon.

A dream for the avid fisherman, the protected bays of the quiet retreat attract all manners of wildlife. The north side bay is a natural haven for otters and sea birds, while all coastal regions of the island offer the potential for fishing.

In addition to the extensive fauna, Eilean Nan Gabhar is home to multitudes of gorgeous flora, with species of trees including rowan, willow, beech, bog myrtle, hawthorn, wild garlic and honeysuckle. Walking trails around the island provide glimpses of impressive rock formations, shady dells and lush vegetation. The property even boasts a private beach on the south side of the island.

Just one question remains, in fact: what would you do with the island if you bought it? There's no suggestion in the agent's details that you could apply for permission to build any sort of dwelling on the island, though given the state of the art in water purification, natural sewage treatment and solar power (admittedly a big risk in Scotland) the creation of a semi-self-sufficient cottage seems at least vaguely plausible.

Given that there is a nice little natural harbour in the bay, it's not too much of a stretch to think that the island could be habitable, at least for a few months of the year. Then again, would you really want it to be? There's something wonderful about this place exactly as it is, and we've a feeling that the sellers will find it quite easy to attract a buyer keen to own a slice of wilderness purely for its own sake.

Eilean Nan Gabharis is for sale with Galbraith at a guide price of £120,000 – see more details and pictures.

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Credit: Strutt & Parker

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Nestled at the bottom of a hill on the beach at Babbacombe, the Cary Arms & Spa isn’t so much a hotel as a collection of different options. There’s the former pub which gives the place its name, but beyond that are six recently-built beach hut lodges and two beach suites, plus a cluster of former fisherman’s cottages – including the recently refurbished Cove Cottage, whose views are breathtaking – and a luxurious spa area.

We stayed in one of the luxurious Beach Huts, situated only feet away from the water, with a private sun-deck. You feel a world away from the nearest road or town as you sit and watch the sea in the quiet serenity of the cove.

The Cary Arms is owned by Lana de Savary, wife of Peter de Savary, and the family’s experience in creating lovely places has clearly been used. The place has won all sorts of awards – most recently one for excellence in boutique accommodation from Visit Britain.

There were all manner of little details which in our beach hut didn’t go unnoticed: we were greeted with a decanter of sloe gin which was delicious, while the complimentary mini bar was stocked with a bottle of wine as well as bottled water, soft drinks, biscuits and chocolates. Even the robe and slippers to pop down to the spa – small but perfectly formed with an indoor/outdoor infinity pool perfectly arranged to give the best views of the Jurassic coastline – were beautiful.

As was the location itself, of course. You can see why they’ve dubbed this part of Devon the English Riviera: the pull of the clear waters around the bay is compelling, and even in April – albeit on a particularly warm day – there were many local children enjoying the sea, paddle-boarding, snorkelling and daring each other to jump off the pier into the beautiful blue sea. Idyllic.

Food and drink

The pub and restaurant are very popular, for good reason: the food is delicious and superbly fresh, using local ingredients from Devon beef to Lyme Bay lobster and local seafood.

If the weather is good you can dine al fresco in the terraced gardens, by the outside fire or the dolphin lookout post. Guests of the beach huts and beach suites have an exclusive outside seating area, so you will always find room to relax and enjoy.

If you visit in the colder months, it’s no less alluring: the bar drips with West Country charm. Think beamed ceilings, stone walls and pints of decent beer next to a roaring log fire.

Things to do

Bring your dog

Dogs are very welcome at the Cary Arms – it seemed every other person had a four-legged friend with them.

Look out for dolphins – and don’t forget to ring the bell

This is, in our view, the best sign ever. A pod of dolphins regularly frequents Babbacombe Bay – what a lovely idea to make sure as many guests as possible get to see them.

Hit the coastal path

The Cary Arms is on a prime position for the South West Coast Path, or for a shorter option head into the town of Babbacombe and reward yourself for the uphill climb with an ice cream at Scoopy Doo’s on Babbacombe Road.

Have a treatment

Ice cream alone may not soothe your aching muscles at the end of your day, but the spa has all manner of options. I highly recommend the ‘tailored body massage’ to ease the tension after a stimulating day of coastal walks.

The Cary Arms, a de Savary Hotel, has deluxe rooms starting from £245, beach huts from £375 and beach suites from £475 per room per night on a B&B basis. Cottages from £425 per night. www.caryarms.co.uk / enquiries@caryarms.co.uk / 01803 327110

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Credit: Bottle & Glass Inn, Binfield

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Helen Browning’s Royal Oak: An idyllic Wiltshire spot with pigs, pies, pints and pillows

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It's sometimes all too easy to miss the critical moments when whim, chance and fancy divert the course of our lives. Take my first week at university, back in the days when there were only four television channels and you could still buy petrol with lead in it. It was then that I made a whimsical decision – based entirely on the length of a queue at the freshers' fair – which prompted me to study Spanish instead of Italian. And it was a friend from that course – who I'd never otherwise have met – who flagged up a job opportunity overseas, which led directly to me meeting my wife. And without that chance decision to ignore the queue, none of it would have happened.

I'd like to think that it was a similar whim which took George III to Cheltenham back in the 18th century. At the time it was little more than a muddy Gloucestershire village, but the king – no doubt wanting to avoid the thousands of curious eyes of Bath – decided to head there to take the recently-discovered spa waters for a few weeks. There are many other places he might have gone instead, but that chance decision catapulted Cheltenham to fashionable status and wealth at a time when English architecture was arguably at its apogee.

Over the next 30 or 40 years the town was built up into one of the most beautiful town centres in the nation – and the Queens Hotel is a wonderful example of that legacy. Funnily enough the hotel's existence owes even more to chance than most of the town: originally the site was home to the Sherborne Spa, but in 1837 by unlucky chance the waters dried up at that particular spot. You can imagine the effect on business.

The spa was knocked down and the Queens opened up on the same spot the following year, and has ever since remained one of the smartest places to stay in town. Arthur Conan Doyle stayed here when visiting, while Glenn Miller and Bob Hope propped up the hotel bar during the Second World War when the place doubled as an American Services Club for US troops stationed nearby.

The hotel

The splendour of this neo-classical building is striking outside and in: grand pillars stand guard outside, while inside there are beautiful floors, elegant fittings and ceilings so high that giraffes would be happily accommodated, if only they could fit through the revolving door entrance. Even the wallpaper is special: the covering which decorates the magnificent central staircase is 175 years old, designed by A. W. Pugin, and also graces the Houses of Parliament.

The rooms themselves strike a very nice balance between early-Victorian charm and modern comfort: our deluxe room had a four-poster bed (complete with canopy and curtains) which added an element of cosiness as well as regal splendour in a very spacious room.

More modern was the bathroom, flawlessly-finished with a brilliant waterfall showerhead in a swish glass cubicle, though we were without a bathtub – presumably, as so often, a victim of architects having to shoehorn en-suites into listed buildings.

That compromise felt a small price to pay for enjoying the splendid spaces of the Queens, grand enough to feel special while still small enough (at 87 rooms) to feel friendly and personal – a feeling helped by staff who were unfailingly wonderful, particularly with out two small children. Both the hotel and Cheltenham itself might only owe their existence to whim and chance stretching back a couple of centuries, but its a happy accident: if you're after a charming place to stay in this charming town, the Queens comes warmly recommended.

Food and drink

Cheltenham is blessed with some great places to eat, from top-end – Lumiere on Clarence Street is particularly swish if you're looking for somewhere to celebrate a special occasion – to lovely cafes and bakeries. The hotel's Napier restaurant (named after General Sir Charles Napier, who lived across the square and hosted dinners here) holds its own, however. We didn't have time for the renowned afternoon tea but in the evening there was a decent, reasonably-priced menu (main courses around £18) and infectiously-cheerful service which gave the dining room a real buzz.

A fish platter starter for two was the highlight of our meal, though the children's burgers – a house specialty, for big kids and small – were superbly juicy and full of flavour. Our main courses of pork two ways (belly and loin) was decent without being a standout star, while the locally-sourced steak was tender and well-cooked.

That said, breakfast was probably even more memorable. Served in the splendid orangery, both the buffet items and the cooked-to-order dishes were spot-on – the pancakes were truly superb, while the selection of juices and smoothies was so extraordinary that we just had to include a picture.

Things to do

Immediately opposite the hotel is Imperial Gardens, with its statue of Gustav Holst – the composer of The Planets was born in Cheltenham, and his birthplace is now a museum. The Queens is about a five-minute stroll down the Promenade from the centre of town – the smart boutique shops are the first you'll come across, with the usual town centre high street names further along.

The town also has other attractions depending on when you visit – the nearby racecourse, for example. Then there's the world-famous Cheltenham Literary Festival, the first of its kind and an event which established a format now copied around the world – there are also jazz, science and music festivals throughout the year. But don't be worried about visiting outside these times: truth be told, we were very happy wandering among the pretty streets and soaking in the atmosphere of this town of real character.

Don't miss

• The juice and smoothies at breakfast – each served in a little glass bottle, with all sorts of flavours and presented in a brilliant rainbow
• The Cotswolds on your doorstep. Some of the most beautiful villages in Britain are with a few minutes drive. Bourton-on-the-Water is about 25 minutes away, with Stow-on-the-Wold and the Slaughters just beyond.
• The Montpellier District houses much of the town's loveliest Georgian architecture - Montpellier Gardens is more or less just behind the hotel, and is surrounded by picturesque streets lined with cafes and shops.

The practicalities

Standard rates start at £125 for a superior room at the Queens Hotel, deluxe rooms from £150 and suites from £225. That's based on two sharing, and includes breakfast. The hotel is also part of the Sofitel chain's 'MGallery', meaning that it participates in the various loyalty programmes. Book via the website at www.queenshotelcheltenham.co.uk.

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Severin’s: The Alpine Retreat is a new five-star S (for superior) hotel in Lech, set a little apart from the bustle of the village. Built from the reclaimed 150-year-old timbers of derelict local barns, it combines tradition with the latest modern tastes, from Italian furnishings by Minotti to a private pool, a gym and exceptional contemporary art. Fancy a Roy Lichtenstein? There’s one on the wall for sale. Feel like a fire? There’s one ready to light in your bedroom.

The something old, something new app-roach creates the relaxed and contemporary feeling of both a chalet and a hotel. There are just nine suites, plus the sensational 4,550sq ft Residence, which comes with four bedrooms, a whirlpool and a private cinema. The staff will ferry you anywhere you need to go and share tips on finding the quietest slopes or places to eat up the mountain.

The food in the hotel is exceptional, thanks to the owners having successfully tempted Stephan Kriegelstein, formerly of the Michelin-starred The Omnia in Zermatt, to join them. Rich local dishes are complemented by fusion cooking from across the world and the restaurant is also open to non-guests.

Suites from €690 (£525) per night, based on two sharing on a half-board basis (00 43 5583 33 9070; http://www.severins-lech.at/en)

While you’re there

The famous five resorts of Austria – St Anton, St Christoph, Stuben, Zürs and Lech – were linked together for the first time last season by the Flexenbahn 10-seater cable car, making this one of the largest ski areas in Europe. With 190 miles of ski slopes and 124 miles of high Alpine powder runs, snow is rarely a problem.

Just relax – this is definitely not an Austrian St Moritz and still holds true to its simple farming roots from the 1920s. Beloved by royalty, Lech has hosted Diana, Princess of Wales, the Jordanian royal family, the Dutch royal family and Monaco’s Princess Caroline.

The Hospiz Alm at the base of the St Christoph chairlift is a local legend, serving dishes such as regional Tiroler gröstl, warming goulash soup, wiener schnitzel and oysters. It’s deservedly famous for its magnums and larger-sized bottles, with the wine cellar accessed by a slide to avoid incidents on the stairs with ski boots.

The Eisbar, outside Hotel Tannbergerhof, is the place to go for a glühwein straight from the slopes. However, for the best nightlife, a taxi to St Anton is required.

Le Chardon Mountain Lodges: Learn to ski in luxury

Visit Le Chardon Mountain Lodges in Val d'Isere for the ultimate ski experience delivered with a dollop of Scottish hospitality.

As we wound our way through the Cotswolds, I racked my brains as to why I hadn't heard of the Old Swan & Minster Mill before now. As an Oxfordshire resident some 15 miles to the north-east of the unspoilt and thatched village of Minster Lovell, I am, no doubt, one of many who has solely succumbed to the delights on offer from a certain establishment in Great Tew – slap on the wrist.

Located on the banks of the River Windrush, the Old Swan & Minster Mill is nestled in 65 acres of idyllic grounds. Understated and unassuming, the property encompasses sympathetically restored rural buildings including The Swan (a quintessential 600-year-old English inn with 15 charming guest rooms) and the adjoining 15th century Minster Mill which boasts 37 rooms in a more contemporary Scandinavian style.

We were delighted with our airy, light-filled room, which over-looked the croquet lawn, and quickly raised a glass of complimentary sloe gin as we donned our fluffy robes and slippers and explored the stylish, modern bathroom which boasted a lighting system that could rival a Prince concert plus lovely L'Occitane toiletries.

Later that evening, when we returned to sink into bed, we found creamy chocolate truffles and a bottle of L'Occitane lavender mist on our pillows – a lovely touch to ensure a good night's rest.

Food & Drink

After a stroll around the grounds pull up a pew in front of the roaring open fire in The Old Swan and get ready to indulge in proper pub grub using fresh seasonal ingredients.

My (pescatarian) companion was thrilled to discover the menu was as exciting for carnivores and veggies alike and we were both impressed with the extensive wine list. After much gluttonous deliberation we finally settled on Coln Valley smoked salmon and melba toast followed by delicious sirloin steak with triple cooked chips and mushroom sauce (me); and poached pear with blue cheese set cream, confit walnut and burnt apple puree, followed by beer-battered market fish served with crushed peas, tartare sauce, lemon and triple cooked chips (her) washed down with a delicious bottle of Argentinian Malbec.

And just when we thought we couldn't squeeze in any more, the delightful staff recommended the cheeseboard, which disappeared as quickly as it was set on the table.

Things to do

The Garden Spa is a tranquil haven in the heart of the beautiful grounds – and certainly not to be missed. We indulged in a heavenly ESPA mini facial followed by a back, neck and shoulder massage. The spa also boasts an indoor heated plunge pool, a poolside rock sauna, an aroma steam room, ice fountain and our personal favourite – tropical rainforest showers which, on the push of a button, pimped the shower to include the sound of falling rain and tropical birdsong.

If you exhaust the tennis, badminton and croquet (to name just three of the outdoor pursuits on offer at the Old Swan & Minster Mill), just 10 minutes walk away are the ruins of Minster Lovell Hall and Dovecote which are free to wander around.

Further afield, visit the expansive Cotswold Water Park where you'll find endless bridle paths to amble along plus a designated swimming area for your pooch (did I mention the Old Swan & Minster Mill offer dog-friendly rooms?).

Beautiful Blenheim Palace is also a short drive away, and well worth a visit if you haven't explored its English Baroque style architecture. Blenheim is open all year round with the exception of Christmas Day.

Don't miss

• The complimentary decanter of sloe gin that welcomes guests to their rooms.
• Parker, the hotel's resident cat who is normally found greeting guests as they arrive in the car park. Be warned – he is a touch on the tubby side and not to be fed.

• The impressive commitment to green energy: much of the Old Swan is run on hydro power, particularly since the recent installation of an Archimedes Screw, which harnesses the power of the river.
• Giant chess in the grounds.
• The service. We found all the staff, from the front desk to the gardeners, charming and helpful.
• The full English breakfast in the morning – faultless.

The practicalities

Double rooms at the Old Swan and Minster Mill start from £115.00 per night on a bed and breakfast basis.

For guests looking to restore their body and mind, The Garden Spa Great Escape package offers a luxurious 60 minute treatment of guest’s choice and access to the pool, poolside rock sauna, aroma steam room and ice fountain. Guests are then invited to finish their stay with a delicious three-course dinner in the Old Swan restaurant before curling up in a comfortable bed for a relaxing night’s sleep, followed by a full English breakfast the next day. Available Monday – Thursday this package costs from £310 per room, per night.

The Old Swan & Minster Mill, Old Minster, Minster Lovell, Witney OX29 0RN www.oldswanminstermill.co.uk; 01993 774 441

The Townhouse, Stratford review: A beautiful old house transformed into a boutique bolt-hole

In the centre of Stratford-upon-Avon lies a beautiful old townhouse that's been converted into a boutique hotel bursting with character.

The Royal Crescent Hotel review: 'A dreamy place of peace and quiet'

Where period charm meets contemporary living.

The Pointer in Brill: Restaurant review

This award-winning pub and restaurant serves seasonal, sustainable and thoroughly delicious food and drink.

High up in the hills between Siena and Montepulciano sits Fonteverde, a Medici mansion turned modern refuge. With nothing but the rolling acres of the Val d'Orcia to be seen from the grounds, it’s an unspoilt backdrop for getting away from it all.

Beyond its uplifting view, Fonteverde's main jewel is its spa. Natural thermal springs at a relaxing 38 degrees bubble out of the mountainside and into a multitude of indoor and outdoor swimming pools. If you tire of the warm water, or want to get stuck into serious exercise, then there are two ordinary pools as well.

The waters themselves are rich in calcium and sulphur, known for their skin-calming circulation-boosting properties. These qualities are harnessed for many of the Fonteverde spa treatments too, so this is a chance to really immerse yourself in mineral goodness. The 'Bioaquam' circuit of various steam rooms, hammams and saunas makes liberal use of the waters, as does the extensive menu of luxurious massages and facials. An unusual highlight is the 'salitorium' treatment in which you can sleep in a warm, tight salt wrap, which is far more soothing than it sounds.

As for the rest of the hotel, the decor is timeless rather than fashionable, in keeping with the mansion's heritage. A few of the 78 bedrooms are in the historic villa, with the rest in a modern annex. Front-facing bedrooms have a glorious view across the valley.

After a hard day of paddling in the water and walking between treatments, it is time to dress up for dinner at the restaurant Ferdinando I. The dress here is smart and the atmosphere formal. The food itself is rich and delicious, but there is also the diet ‘Equilibirum’ menu available. It includes light fish and inventive vegetable dishes so there is no need to undo your good work at the gym and swimming pool if you don't want to.

Fellow guests are most likely to be fashionable young Romans who take the two-hour drive into southern Tuscany, mainly for weekends and short breaks. The hotel is probably better suited to couples and families with older children - there are activities including mountain biking, horse riding, and truffle hunting, but really the experience is geared towards the vast spa and fine dining.

Fonteverde, Località Terme 1, San Casciano dei Bagni, 53040, Tuscany, Italy. booking@fonteverdespa.com, tel: +39 0578 5724. From 314 Euros/£228 per night based on two people sharing including breakfast.

With the summer holidays looming, it is always somewhat of a relief to discover that you don’t have to jump on a plane, and travel millions of miles, to get some much-needed rest and relaxation.

Just a couple of hours east of London, you will find The George Townhouse, tucked away in the northern tip of the Cotswolds in Shipston-on-Stour. Less than 30 minutes from Banbury, and the M40, it’s 15 en-suite rooms are the perfect stop-over for those travelling deeper into the West Country or as a weekend staycation. We visited for the latter, soon after it re-opened following a mammoth makeover.

This facelift hasn’t done anything to detract from the quirks and charms of the George’s listed building; the floors are still wonderfully wonky and there are exposed beams a-plenty. Instead, there’s a new, cool, complimentary colour palette, ludicrously comfortable beds and generously proportioned bathrooms. Our attic suite came complete with a claw-foot bath and separate shower.

Clever management have also given the service a reboot. Pre-empting a weary traveller’s forgetfulness, there was a tidy box stuffed full of essentials. Rather handy given that both of us had failed to pack a toothbrush. The fresh cookies and milk and luxurious spa products went down equally well.

Downstairs, the central bar is undoubtedly the George’s heart, which, on the night we stayed, was buzzing with both locals and visitors. A Cotswolds Gin cocktail is always the tipple of choice and tours of the distillery, a couple of miles down the road, come highly recommended.

It is also worth booking a table at the restaurant. Tucked into separate nooks and crannies, and an outdoor terrace, it serves hearty and unpretentious food, all locally sourced, where possible, from the surrounding countryside. Staff were knowledgeable when faced with questions regarding the menu and kindly suggested we sample a couple of wines before committing to a bottle.

Although easy to travel to by train, we really appreciated having a car with us, with gardens such as Sezincote, chocolate-box Cotswold stone villages and Blenheim Palace all a stones throw away. In fact with so much on offer, you may it hard to tear yourself away. When we finally departed, somewhat reluctantly, it was via the Daylesford Organics Farmshop, to stock up on some essential and not so essential treats for the working week ahead. A fitting end to a fantastic weekend.

Double rooms from £100 per night (01608 661453; www.thegeorgeshipston.co.uk)

Framed by the Alps and endless vineyards, the resorts two hotels-Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites and Grand Hotel Hof Ragaz-are just a short train ride away from Zurich. Restorative mountain air and local tipples aside, it is the site’s proximity to the Tamina Gorge that really places Bad Ragaz ahead of the competition. Recognised for its therapeutic qualities for centuries, today water from the gorge is piped directly into the resort and it’s twelve thousand, eight hundred square-metre spa through four kilometers of specially designed piping.

We spent an arduous afternoon hopping between the 10 pools before settling on the attractive, outdoor garden one, mild enough to be enjoyed well into September. The Tamina Therme-a vast oasis of ecclesiastical architecture and various bathing areas open to the public-is also well worth a visit. It is free for guests of the hotel and there are four therapeutic bathing programmes, incorporating the three sauna-and-steam bath zones, which can be tailored to individual requirements.

If you can bear to leave such comfort, spend an afternoon exploring the gorge or ask the concierge to book a private tour of the local vineyards and wine tasting experience with Wine Tours Switzerland. Our guide, tour founder and local Gian Carlo, was met with little resistance as he plied us with homemade chutney and charcuterie, delicious wines straight from private cellars, and an impressive amount of knowledge.

With newfound energy, we rose early the next morning and hiked up into the surrounding mountains, just in time to watch the sun appear over the peaks and ridges. Our efforts-the incline was somewhat steeper than expected-were rewarded with a sumptuous buffet breakfast at Olives d’or, one of the resorts six restaurants, where we valiantly ignored the resorts Cuisine Équilibrée menu, formulated by the resorts medical health centre and nutritionists to help those determined to count calories, in favour of creamy hot chocolate, Swiss cheese and pastries.

Double rooms at Grand Resort Bad Ragaz from CHF 245/£167 per person. Rates include breakfast, welcome aperitif, use of the 36.5° Wellbeing & Thermal Spa area and Tamina Therme, fresh fruit and Ragaz water each day and daily fitness and relaxation lessons as well as VAT.

Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) offer flights from the UK and Ireland to Switzerland starting from £38 one-way including taxes

For rail passes visit Swiss Travel System and for more information on Switzerland click here or call 00800 100 200 30.

It is the season to atone for December so enjoy these new exercises, healthy foods and skincare products to revamp your routine. These wholesome treats will help you to unwind over the winter - and to kick last year’s bad habits.

The Juice Radiance Cleanse Co January diets do not have have to be dull - an inspiring few days of unusual cold-pressed juices and nut milks delivered to your door will be just what your sluggish metabolism needs. As well as getting you out of the stodgy carbs cycle, Radiance Cleanse Company’s juices are a great source of vitamins that you would be hard pushed to include in your diet usually. Prices start at £75 for one day’s worth of drinks on their flexible subscriptions. radiancecleanse.com

Neom Organics

Neom’s Three steps to Instantly De-Stress kit uses the essential oils of Lavender, jasmine and Brazilian rosewood to create a heavenly aroma that hits you before you even open the box. The warm, sweet-smelling candle will make the dreariest of offices feel cosy, or help you to wind down at home. The kit comes with a soothing bath oil and an on-the-go mist so that you can have just the tonic for stress whether you are at home, or out and about. http://www.neomorganics.com

Clipper

Try Clipper’s subtle award-winning infusions for a cup of tea that will also help your skin from the inside out. Their green tea is full of anti-toxins which makes it a useful accompaniment to your beauty regime. If you find that green tea gets boring after a while then you can stock up on their Lemon, Lime & Ginger, or Cranberry Green Teas. Clipper’s Green Tea has a little caffeine in it, but if you prefer to go totally without then you can choose naturally caffeine-free fruit infusions such as the Strawberry & Rhubarb, or Apple & Elderflower. https://www.clipper-teas.com

Cuisinart

Start the year as you mean to go on by blending yourself hearty chunky soups with Cuisinart’s new Soup Maker Plus to get into long-term good shape. As well as working as a regular power blender that makes smoothies, nut milks and sauces, its “slow stir” function blends the ingredients gently without mixing them to a pulp. It can also heat up as it goes so that your homemade soup is ready to eat in no time. It’s an ideal gadget for making nutritious winter food. www.cuisinart.co.uk

Barrecore Get the endorphins pumping with this fashionable dance-based fitness class. The idea of Barrecore is to tone your muscles into a lean, non-bulky shape while giving you a manageable cardiovascular workout. The sessions are hard work, but so worthwhile. It’s a pleasure to get your heart pumping at their elegant and airy studios. Their excellent changing room and washing facilities have all of the hair drying and beauty equipment that you need. Barrecore is available at six dedicated studios in London and one up in Alderley Edge. http://www.barrecore.co.uk

Rude Health Sip, nibble and crunch through Rude Health’s breakfast ingredients for a healthy start to the day. Between their five different kinds of granola, four different porridges and seven mueslis there is bound to be something to suit your taste. The idea is to use nothing artificial or refined so that your breakfast can be as naturally delicious as possible. They also offer an excellent selection of milk alternatives so that you can experiment with lowering your dairy intake. There is a tasty choice between six different types - from brown rice to almond, and hazlenut. http://rudehealth.com

Toast

No one makes cosier clothing than Toast, and their stylish silk stripe dressing gown will have you racing home to get into your pyjamas. It is the ideal change of clothes to start relaxing in after the daily grind. Although silky on the outside, the cotton lining makes it snug on the inside. With its smart gold and magenta trim it’s a dressing gown that you’ll want to show off too. http://www.toa.st/uk/

Evolve With the summer still a long way off, it is easy for your skin to look tired from all the wind, rain, and lack of sunshine. Give your face a hydrating boost with these handmade organic beauty products from Hertfordshire. Evolve’s product are almost entirely organic to make for a gentle daily routine that keeps your skin soft and supple. Their affordable Skin Saviour body oil with nourshing baobab, mandarin and rosehip oil is great for perking up lacklustre January skin. http://www.evolvebeauty.co.uk

Breakfast in Bed

A relaxing weekend breakfast does not have to involve calorific fried breakfast or fattening pastries. Instead you can have nutritious treats delivered to your door on Saturdays and Sundays thanks to Breakfast in Bed. They will bring you over superfood breakfasts such as the Quinoa Superbox (avocado, quinoa, feta, toasted seeds, blushed tomatoes) or their homemade Honey and Nut Granola with fresh berries and Greek yoghurt. Their lovely freshly squeezed juices include the Immune Boost (apple, carrot and ginger) and Green Juice (kale, spinach, lemon, celery and apple). They will even bring you a weekend paper. At the moment Breakfast in Bed is only available in west and north London, but they have plans to expand due to demand. https://breakfastinbed.co.uk

Groovy Food Company

You cannot go wrong with the Groovy Food Company - all of their wonderful products are healthy alternatives to your sweeter favourites. Feast on their agave nectar, marinades, and dressings without feeling guilty. The agave nectar is particularly handy as it has low GI, which means that you can use it instead of sugar in drinks and cooking and it will not send your blood sugar levels shooting up. They also make cold pressed oils full of desirable fatty acids and blended with antioxidant-rich flaxseed. The range is available from Tesco, Waitrose and Sainsbury’s and health shops. www.groovyfood.co.uk

Firle Place The White Beauty Cream made with snowdrops has been formulated by Lady Alexandra Gage from her herb garden at Firle Place in Sussex to tend to dry winter faces. She uses revitalising shea butter, beeswax, and safflower oil, which is good for sensitive skin. Lady Gage makes a whole range of herb-based therapeutic balms, soaps and teas. They are made in small batches so you may occasionally have to wait for your order to be made up. http://firleplaceherbgarden.co.uk

** Read more High Life pieces on luxury and style

Renowed for classic timepieces, British watchmaker Bremont has added accessories to its name, launching a simple and modish gentleman’s range to ensure that your phone, cuffs, keys and desk, as well as your wrist, can all be graced with unique Bremont style.

Cufflinks, £125 (0845 094 0690; www.bremont.com)

Wilde about tea

‘Tea is the only simple pleasure left to us,’ observes Basil Hallward in The Picture of Dorian Gray, but there’s nothing simple about the London Royal Tea at Café Royal in Piccadilly. The Oscar Wilde Bar named after the writer who dined there daily is celebrating all things British with a new menu of edible London icons, such as London Underground macarons and a signature Oscar tea, a rich blend of Lapsang Souchong.

From £42 per person (020–7406 3310; www.hotelcaferoyal.com)

To celebrate 30 years in the business, jewellery designer Cassandra Goad is giving away gifts for each of the 12 days of Christmas. Email elf@ cassandragoad.co.uk to enter the competition open from December 26 until January 6 and have the opportunity of winning one of the beautiful jewels pictured on the company’s Advent calendar. Twelve winners will be chosen at random on January 7 (020–7730 2202; www.cassandragoad.com)

If you’re looking to give something a little different this Christmas, look no further than these luxurious spa treatments: London’s Bulgari Spa is the only spa in the world to offer the new Mauli treatments: traditional Indian healing and ayurvedic therapies dating back 5,000 years. From £150 (020–7151 1010; www.bulgarihotels.com/london). Book in to Lime Wood Hotel’s Herb House Spa for the recently launched Herb House Total Body Signature Treatment, 90 minutes of relaxation at £150, and day packages from £95 (above, 02380 286999; www.limewoodhotel.co.uk).

Bamford Haybarn Spa at The Berkeley brings a little slice of the Cotswolds to Knightsbridge with its divine treatments. Signature facial, 55 minutes, £105 (020–7201 1699; www.the-berkeley.co.uk)

All wrapped up

As the cold sets in, the layers go on and Winser London’s new Christmas knitwear collection is perfect for cosying up by the fire. If you’re looking for something a little more formal, the Milano coat looks fabulously festive in red (left), but also comes in black and mink. Previously only available online, Winser London clothing is now stocked in Fenwick on Bond Street.

Milano midi coat, £350 (0845 600 1521; www. winserlondon.com;www.fenwick.co.uk)

Clothes should wear in, not out, says Spoke London, which has created a service that takes the hassle out of badly fitting clothing. Its collection of subtly coloured chinos and cords offers 10 times the size range of other brands and, by simply entering your waist and thigh size they’ll even send you a free tape measure the website will calculate your build and size so you can choose the perfect pair.

Gift vouchers are available for Christmas, £79 (www.spoke-london.com)

Sitting on one of the most romantic spots in London, restaurant Le Pont de la Tour has just been relaunched and offers a fantastic menu and extensive wine list. Perched on the edge of the River Thames with views overlooking majestic Tower Bridge, the restaurant’s interiors are ins- pired by the French cruise liner SS Normandie think smooth wood and subtle colour schemes (below). The menu, from chef Frederick Forster who has worked under Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay is outstanding; the roasted Orkney scallops and succulent lobster thermidor are particularly recommended. Cocktails at the leather-ens- conced bar are a must and there are heaters outside if you’re brave enough this winter the view will be worth it.

Set menus start at £23.50 (020–7403 8403; www.pontdelatour.co.uk)

Despite the end of the series, there’s no need to wave goodbye to Downton Abbey quite yet, thanks to the launch of an exclusive air tour over Highclere Castle, where the nation’s favourite period drama is filmed. London Helicopter will fly six guests across the city and Home Counties to admire the beautiful Berkshire estate before returning to Battersea heliport, glimpsing some iconic landmarks on the way. Although there is no dress code, costumes are encouraged.

From £2,500 plus VAT for up to six passengers (020–7887 2626; www.thelondonhelicopter.com)

Sovereign’s Gate, Osbourne House, Isle of Wight Sovereign’s Gate was the ceremonial entrance to Osbourne House, which was commissioned in the 1840s by Prince Albert as a seaside retreat for his wife, Queen Victoria, and their children. Sovereign’s Gate provided the estate with an entrance worthy of the status of its guests, which included Emperor Napoleon III, Tsar Nicholas and the royal family. The gate was also the site of departures—none more dramatic than Queen Victoria’s final journey from Osborne after her death in 1901. It was through Sovereign’s Gate that she left her seaside home for the last time, and where the crowds outside had their first glimpse of her funeral cortege. (Two cottages each sleeping four.)

Three nights from £402 (www.english-heritage.org.uk/holidaycottages)

Forthampton Court, Tewkesbury Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn reputedly stayed at Forthampton Court in 1535 during their progress through southern England. The house belonged to Tewkesbury Abbey from its foundation in 1102 and was the country residence of abbots until the dissolution in 1540. The Great Hall still survives from this period. After the dissolution, John Waleman, last abbot and first Bishop of Gloucester, was granted the house. A wing was added around 1890 by the Arts-and-Crafts architect, Philip Webb. This wing can be rented and dinner can be arranged in the Great Hall (Sleeps 10.)

Three nights from £1032 (www.ruralretreats.co.uk)

Traquair House, Scotland Traquair, which dates back to 1107, is the country’s oldest inhabited house. It was originally a hunting lodge for the kings and queens of Scotland. Alexander I was the first Scottish king to stay and hunt at Traquair. At that time it was a remote castle surrounded by forest. Upon Alexander III's death in 1286, the peace of the Borders region was shattered and Traquair became a key link in the chain of defence that guarded the Tweed Valley against English invasion. In 1491 Traquair was passed to the Stuart family, who remained there for the next four centuries. (Three rooms available.)

From £110 per night (www.traquair.co.uk)

The Apple Tower at Sandringham, Norfolk In 1871, Edward, Prince of Wales fell ill with typhoid while staying on the royal estate at Sandringham, as did his eldest son three years later. These were chilling reminders for Queen Victoria of the death of her beloved husband Prince Albert from the same disease at Windsor Castle. Tests on the Sandringham water supply showed it to be unsatisfactory and a clean, reliable water supply for the whole estate was an urgent priority. Engineer James Mansergh was appointed to oversee the new waterworks and a 60-foot tower was constructed in 1877. Realising the upper levels would command a dazzling view of much of Norfolk, Mansergh reserved the second-floor room as a viewing room for the royal family and their guests. There is a view on all sides over miles of wide, open landscape, with even a distant gleam of the Wash. Today you can enjoy these views, just as the royals once did. (Sleeps four.)

Four nights from £472 (www.landmarktrust.org.uk)

Astley Castle, Warwickshire Lady Jane Grey, who reigned for just nine days in 1553, may have lived here during her youth. Her family owned the property from 1415 until 1554 when she, her husband and father were beheaded for treason. In the 19th century, Astley Castle became a dower house and was let to a succession of tenants. It inspired writer George Eliot, born Mary Ann Evans, who grew up on the Arbury Estate where her father was an agent. The property briefly became a hotel in the1960s but was largely destroyed by fire in 1978. It was recently restored, however, and can now be rented. (Sleeps eight.)

Four nights from £871 (www.landmarktrust.org.uk)

Tropical spa resorts are 10 a penny these days—anyone can pipe whale music into a hut and call it a luxury retreat—but Six Senses Con Dao, an hour away by plane from Ho Chi Minh City, is the real deal. Fifty jaw-droppingly luxurious villas are strung out along a beach and back onto the jungle. Each has its own infinity pool and you shower outside to a soundtrack of birdsong and monkey hooting.

At the spa, I was doused in essential oils and scrubbed with fresh coffee grounds—the guests who were detoxing sniffed the air wistfully as I passed. The main restaurant does stylish fusion food and, across a wooden walkway, local Miss Lan rustles up Vietnamese specialties to order. Or, if you’re feeling really lazy, you can have your meal brought to you at the beachfront pool. if you’ve ever wondered what it would be like to eat a whole lobster on a sun-lounger, this is the place to find out.

The Con Dao archipelago is still well off the radar, so expect a smattering of celebrities (Angelina Jolie and her entourage took over five villas a few years ago), but there’s no standing on ceremony and everyone potters about on the same sit-up-and-beg bicycles.

By day three, I’d dispensed with my shoes and was sleeping better than I had in years. When I discovered that there are protected baby turtles on the beach between May and October, I seriously considered stashing one in my suitcase so I’d be turned back at the airport.

Cleveland Collection (020–7843 3531; www.clevelandcollection.co.uk) offers an eight-night stay at Six Senses Con Dao, Vietnam, from £1,799 per person, sharing. This includes return economy flights to Con Dao via Ho Chi Minh City, airport transfers, accommodation in an Ocean View Duplex Villa and bed and breakfast.

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Credit: Le Grand Joux

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