Kaspar’s at The Savoy review: An Art Deco marvel

London's Savoy Hotel has seven restaurants and bars – Rosie Paterson tried out Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill, and came away impressed.

Just arriving at Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill is an experience in itself. A theatrical promenade sweeps you away from The Strand and into the hotel lobby; from there you will pass exquisite floral arrangements, the Edwardian-style Savoy shop and glittering jewels on display.

In fact it’s easy to forget that you are in a hotel at all. Which might make it a little easier to leave if you don’t have a room booked.

Supper is served

With a few year’s service under its apron, Kaspar’s has now firmly established itself onto the London foodie scene.

Open from morning to late at night, as well as an all day dining menu there’s a fantastic pre and post-theatre offering as well as an ever-changing selection of seasonal dishes. Seafood is the headline option, but there are plenty of other choices too.

We started with Isle of Wight heritage tomato salad and a generous portion of creamy burrata from the latter, which takes full advantage of great British produce.

It’s the fish that really takes centre stage though and we made a valiant, selfless effort to sample as much as possible. Oysters to start, followed by grilled lobster with lashings of garlic butter and Dover Sole – the stand out dish of the night.

Freshly baked and tortuously warm bread appeared, as if by magic, throughout the evening and inventive puddings provided a talking point towards the end of the meal, though they couldn’t quite overshadow the main event.

Red Photographic

This is the least-messy Eton Mess we’ve ever seen. (Red Photographic)

Sitting pretty

Kaspar’s has cottoned on to London’s love affair with art deco interiors. Here it’s unmistakeable. And grand. There’s the chequerboard marble floor, teal leather banquettes and burnished metal fittings throughout.

The central, circular bar is framed by a dramatic chandelier – made up of individual glass shards – which looks more like an art installation than lighting.

Despite all of this, the restaurant still manages to maintain a friendly sort of luxurious informality. The aforementioned banquettes are wonderfully comfortable, framing large tables, evenly spaced throughout the restaurant. Kaspar’s is the kind of restaurant that works perfectly for special occasions – from Christmas family gatherings to birthday treats.

Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill at The Savoy serves main courses starting at £18. The pre-Theatre menu (also available post-Theatre) costs £26 for two courses or £29 for three courses.