Taught to me by my mother-in-law and completely foolproof. Take the salmon, whether a piece or the whole fish, and let it lie flat in a pan in which it fits neatly (for a whole fish, you'll need a fish kettle). Add cold water until the salmon is just submerged, then a pinch of salt and, if you like, a glug of olive oil and white wine. Put the pan on a hot gas or electric or Aga hotplate until the water reaches a gentle boil.
Remove the pan and leave the fish to cool. By this time, it will be cooked. The magic is that the length of time it takes to reach the boil and then cool is in proportion to the weight of the fish. Serve, of course, with tiny, peeled new potatoes, a cucumber salad (I like just a spray of white-wine vinegar, no oil) with chopped chives and homemade mayonnaise. Not chic, not trendy, a cliché but delicious.
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Robert Redford's Oscar and this week's unique royal funeral: Country Life Quiz of the Day, September 17, 2025One of Hollywood's greats is remembered in Wednesday's quiz.
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The Gallivant review: The Camber Sands retreat with show-stopping seafood and a penchant for happinessThe coastal hotel in Rye, East Sussex, is utterly unique and almost faultless, but is seamlessly eclipsed by the real showstopper, its Anglo-French restaurant, Harry’s.
