Taught to me by my mother-in-law and completely foolproof. Take the salmon, whether a piece or the whole fish, and let it lie flat in a pan in which it fits neatly (for a whole fish, you'll need a fish kettle). Add cold water until the salmon is just submerged, then a pinch of salt and, if you like, a glug of olive oil and white wine. Put the pan on a hot gas or electric or Aga hotplate until the water reaches a gentle boil.
Remove the pan and leave the fish to cool. By this time, it will be cooked. The magic is that the length of time it takes to reach the boil and then cool is in proportion to the weight of the fish. Serve, of course, with tiny, peeled new potatoes, a cucumber salad (I like just a spray of white-wine vinegar, no oil) with chopped chives and homemade mayonnaise. Not chic, not trendy, a cliché but delicious.
-
Everything you need to know about private jet travel and 10 rules to fly byDespite the monetary and environmental cost, the UK can now claim to be the private jet capital of Europe.
-
'I'd willingly give a year of my life for a fortnight there': The green dream that is the garden of DerreenExotic woods, labyrinths of narrow, mossy paths and thousands of tree ferns make this an internationally important garden, writes Charles Quest-Ritson. Photographs by Jonathan Hession.
