'Why do I allow the fuchsias in my garden to live on? Because, despite their visual shortcomings, I am a fool for edible pleasure'

I’d very much like to do away with the fuchsias in the garden. Their flowers remind me of the earrings worn by those who all too quickly invite themselves to give you their rendition of Summertime. Were my garden in their native South America, I might think more favourably of those flowers, as they’ve evolved to be highly attractive to the hummingbirds that pollinate them, but here in east Devon, I am hummingbird-less and it’s bees who do the pollinating.

Why do I allow the fuchsias in my garden to live on? Because, despite their visual shortcomings, I am a fool for edible pleasure. The fruit can be really exceptional, with an intense flavour of plum, kiwi, grape and black-currant, with a peculiar — but very pleasant — hint of black pepper. I say ‘can’: the generic fuchsia can be a little bland, but many named varieties have a long deep flavour.

Named varieties of Fuchsia magellanica are what you are looking for. Even I will admit that when examined up close the four long, slender sepals and four shorter petals are quite the ornament, but looking from two steps further back makes me want to dig them up. Happily, it’s only a few weeks from flowers in July to eating usually in late August. These rather lovely-looking fruit are baton-shaped and typically a couple of inches long, ripening from a fresh green to a deep crimson in colour.

Once crimson, it can be hard to judge exactly when the fruit are at their best: keep taste-testing every couple of days until you get a perfect one and that will tell you the exact depth of colour you are looking for.

The flowers’ colour depends on the variety. The familiar bright-red sepals with purple petals are common, whereas other varieties may have white, red of any shade, purple, orange or blue flowers. Of the named varieties I have either grown or tried the fruit of, these are the ones I would recommend.

‘Globosa’ is relatively low growing, getting to about 3ft at most. It also flowers prolifically, fruits heavily and the flavour of those fruits is exceptional. Although it is as hardy as most, it can be susceptible to the top growth dying back in cold spells, but it recovers well.

If you are looking for a variety that is similarly delicious, but taller, try ‘Gracilis’, which will reach about 6ft in height. Larger still, ‘Riccartonii’ can reach 9ft in ideal conditions, is (together with ‘Vielebachen’) an excellent choice for colder areas, as its top growth is hardy down to -15°C and its prolific fruit is superb to eat. Most fuchsias are unlikely to fruit in sufficient qualities to do much with other than enjoy fresh, but if you happen to get a decent harvest, try making a sorbet with them as it will be very good indeed.

Fuchsia’s natural habitat is at woodland edges and in forest clearings, so it thrives in partial shade and sheltered locations, although it will tolerate imperfect conditions without being at its best. A well-drained soil is ideal, but the plant will get by in heavier soil as long as it doesn’t become waterlogged. If you live at the coast, you’ll be pleased to hear fuchsias are happy in maritime conditions.

Avoid frost pockets: top growth and the newest stems are liable to damage in low temperatures, so don’t be surprised if the slide into winter brings a little dieback or if there’s a little spring damage from a late dip in temperature once they’ve started growing. Luckily, they don’t start growing until late in spring, making up for it with vigour.

Fuchsias can be raised from seed: sow undercover in modules in spring, potting up when they are easy to handle. Keep them in a greenhouse or on a window sill for their first year, before planting out after the last frosts. Fuchsias take well to propagation from hardwood cuttings: in late autumn, cut 7in–8in-long stems, ensuring they are brown and woody rather than newer, green lengths. As with seedlings, grow them undercover for their first year.

Another considerable plus to counter-balance their appearance is the fact that I have never known fuchsias suffer any form of pest or disease and when I grew them in a field even the deer didn’t trouble them.

This article first appeared in the September 3 issue of Country Life. For more information on how to subscribe, click here