Growing up near Canada’s Rocky Mountains, I thought I’d seen the best of the west. Then I went to the Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, an off-the-grid glamping retreat on Vancouver Island in the province of British Columbia, for a few days, where even I — a ride-or-die Albertan — had to admit that I had overlooked one of my country’s top outdoor playgrounds.
I spent the 45-minute seaplane ride from Vancouver to Clayoquot with my nose pressed up against the window, marvelling at the snaking glacial fjords and old-growth cedar and spruce forests that make up the area — a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
When I finally arrived, I let out a big exhale, breathing in the salt-laced air and feeling my cares melt away like the fog that dissipated over the sound each afternoon.
The next few days saw me dabbling in excursions ranging from canoeing and heli-hiking to riding, trailing behind expert guides who pointed out local flora and fauna and told us about the area’s rich indigenous culture and heritage.
At night, hotel guests would gather at the rooftop lounge to sip sundowners and scan the glassy waters of Bedwell River for signs of whales and sea otters. It was the west at its wildest, showiest self.
Find out more at clayoquotwildernesslodge.com
How to go there
The Ultimate Travel Company can organise 16-night tours of western Canada, taking in the Rockies and Vancouver Island, from £18,000 per person, including three nights in a Rainforest Deluxe tent at Clayoquot and return flights. The price also includes guided activities at the Wilderness Reserve, including kayaking, riding, mountain biking, wildlife viewing (whales, eagles, bears), archery, rappelling, rock climbing, stand-up paddle boarding, yoga classes, freshwater fishing and fly-casting, meditation and trail running— see www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk.
Credit: Seabourn
The Fall foliage of New England and Canada, as witnessed from the deck of a cruise ship
Steven King journeys from New York to Montréal, via Nova Scotia, in search of the Americas' most famous natural phenomenon.
Credit: TopTenRealEstate
The Rose family's mega-mansion from 'Schitt's Creek' has come up for sale in Toronto
Playing itself in 'Schitt's Creek' as the hugely opulent home of the Rose family, La Belle Maison is currently on
-
'The watch is Head Boy of men’s accessorising': Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey and Tom Chamberlin's Summer Season style secretsWhen it comes to dressing for the Season, accessories will transform an outfit. Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey and Tom Chamberlin, both stylish summer-party veterans, offer some sage advice.
-
Lewis Hamilton, Claude Monet and the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse: Country Life Quiz of the Day, April 29, 2025Tuesday's Quiz of the Day looks back at Lewis Hamilton's first win and ponders on the meaning of greige.
-
Glebe House, Devon: 'The antithesis of big brand hotels'Anna Prendergast pays a visit to Glebe House in Devon — and already can't wait to go back.
-
Sterrekopje: A centuries-old sanctuary hidden in a blessed corner of South AfricaJane Broughton pays a visit to the meticulously wonderful Sterrekopje, a place to stay where words like 'hotel' and 'spa' simply don't seem enough.
-
'As if a cathedral had been flooded with turquoise waters': The Spanish hotel where Gothic and stained glass meet time off in the sunSiobhan Reid checks in to the extraordinary and unique Landa, in northern Spain.
