Prussia Cove: Shrouded in mystery and romance, this former smugglers' paradise is an isolated idyll
Come for the history, stay for the swimming and walking.


Cornishman John Carter, born in 1738, was quite the character. He was fond of playing soldier games as a youngster, getting so into the spirit of these adventures that he was known as the King of Prussia, perhaps partly due to his resemblance to Frederick the Great. Fast forward a few years and that boy was on his way to becoming one of the most famed smugglers the county has ever seen.
With all the caves and crannies, it's easy to see why Prussia Cove was so popular with smugglers.
HMS Warspite, known as the 'Grand Old Lady' of the Royal Navy, ran aground at Prussia Cove in 1947, and was eventually broken up for scrap nearby.
It was a time when salt, gin and tobacco were all in high demand and heavily taxed. These rich pickings from across the Channel were frequently hidden among the caves and rocks of Prussia Cove — actually a quartet of different neighbouring coves taking its title from Carter’s nickname — which is today a place of secluded beauty among the imposing headlands of the south coast. Its evocative blend of mystery and history was added to in May 1947, when the former First World War battleship HMS Warspite ran aground here in a storm.
How to visit Prussia Cove
By car, the only car park is a five-minute walk up the road, just past Trenalls. There are limited spaces, so arrive early in the day during peak times to secure a space. You can walk from the nearest village Rosudgeon in about 20 minutes, or along the South West Coast Path from Perranuthnoe (60 minutes) or from the sandy beaches of Praa Sands (50 minutes).
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
Ben Lerwill is a multi-award-winning travel writer based in Oxford. He has written for publications and websites including national newspapers, Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, and many more. His children's books include Wildlives (Nosy Crow, 2019) and Climate Rebels and Wild Cities (both Puffin, 2020).
-
No job too big: Britain's native breeds can save our countryside
Britain’s native breeds and their grazing talents are an integral part of the drive to balance food production with biodiversity recovery. We should look closer to home in the quest to re-create the natural habitats of the past
-
Heaven in the Highlands: Country Life Quiz of the Day, July 22, 2025
Guessing the price of a great house in Scotland, Durham's home ground and the man who called England a 'nation of shopkeepers' in Tuesday's quiz.
-
The cure for endless scrolling is a weekend away in this solitary 16th century castle on a Scottish beach
Saddell Castle in Kintyre has no mobile phone signal in places and, as such, is a brilliant place for a digital detox after its recent renovations.
-
How an imaginative couple created a sustainable haven that dreams are made of, complete with cider press, vineyard and farm stay accommodation
Since leaving London in 2022, Sophie Brendel and Panu Long have been lovingly turning Thornfalcon Winery & Press, in Somerset, into a 'sustainable heaven' — with even more planned for the future.
-
'I found myself in a magical world of a sun-dappled forest, speckled with wild flowers of kaleidoscopic colours and brilliant mosses': Solo walking in the Pyrenees
The Pyrenees reserves its best treasures for walkers prepared to venture off the well-beaten trail, says Teresa Levonian Cole, on a solo holiday in Ribes de Freser.
-
Beyond Royal Portrush: Castles, country houses and ancient towers in the other dimension of golf in Ireland
Rory McIlroy's history-making exploits and The Open arriving at Royal Portrush have made 2025 a banner year for Irish golf — but there's far more to golf on the island of Ireland than those headline-grabbers, as Toby Keel finds out.
-
‘To this day, it is as attractive as when Hercules first laid eyes on it’: How to escape the crowds on the Amalfi Coast, according to those in the know
The Amalfi Coast is one of the world’s most famed holiday destinations, but, in recent years, mass tourism has made parts of it unbearable. Here’s our guide to making the most of it — in peace and in style.
-
Jnane Rumi, Marrakech, hotel review: 'The most talked about opening this year — and for good reason'
The Moroccan capital of Marrakech is the world capital of hotels, says Christopher Wallace — and Jnane Rumi is the latest string to its hospitality bow.
-
‘‘In the silence, it is the most perfect blue I have ever seen. If my goggles weren’t already overflowing with water I might even weep’: Learning to freedive on the sparkling French Riviera with a five-time World Champion
Five-time freediving World Champion Arthur Guérin-Boëri calls the serene waters of Cap-Ferrat his office. Now, one storied hotel is offering guests a chance to take a deep breath and jump into the deep unknown with him.
-
'Champagne is not simply a place, it’s a symbol of excellence': How a quiet rural region shrugged off war, famine and pestilence to become the home of the ultimate luxury tipple
Ten years ago today the French region was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but what did it take for Champagne to be listed and what’s changed for the area since then?