Prussia Cove: Shrouded in mystery and romance, this former smugglers' paradise is an isolated idyll
Come for the history, stay for the swimming and walking.


Cornishman John Carter, born in 1738, was quite the character. He was fond of playing soldier games as a youngster, getting so into the spirit of these adventures that he was known as the King of Prussia, perhaps partly due to his resemblance to Frederick the Great. Fast forward a few years and that boy was on his way to becoming one of the most famed smugglers the county has ever seen.
With all the caves and crannies, it's easy to see why Prussia Cove was so popular with smugglers.
HMS Warspite, known as the 'Grand Old Lady' of the Royal Navy, ran aground at Prussia Cove in 1947, and was eventually broken up for scrap nearby.
It was a time when salt, gin and tobacco were all in high demand and heavily taxed. These rich pickings from across the Channel were frequently hidden among the caves and rocks of Prussia Cove — actually a quartet of different neighbouring coves taking its title from Carter’s nickname — which is today a place of secluded beauty among the imposing headlands of the south coast. Its evocative blend of mystery and history was added to in May 1947, when the former First World War battleship HMS Warspite ran aground here in a storm.
How to visit Prussia Cove
By car, the only car park is a five-minute walk up the road, just past Trenalls. There are limited spaces, so arrive early in the day during peak times to secure a space. You can walk from the nearest village Rosudgeon in about 20 minutes, or along the South West Coast Path from Perranuthnoe (60 minutes) or from the sandy beaches of Praa Sands (50 minutes).
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
Ben Lerwill is a multi-award-winning travel writer based in Oxford. He has written for publications and websites including national newspapers, Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, and many more. His children's books include Wildlives (Nosy Crow, 2019) and Climate Rebels and Wild Cities (both Puffin, 2020).
-
'A world within a world… a community with an identity, a smoothly turning cog in the wheel of royal life': A look behind the stable doors of the Royal Mews
Home to carriages, coachmen and craftspeople, Buckingham Palace’s Royal Mews is a village in the heart of London. It celebrates its 200th anniversary this year.
-
Mama, oooh... it's the Country Life Quiz of the Day
Friday's quiz has a little bit of Queen, a little bit of Hitchcock and a whole lot of personality.
-
Gravetye Manor review: The Elizabethan country house hotel surrounded by historic gardens of national importance
In the 1950s, Gravetye Manor and its famous garden was converted into one of the first ever country house hotels.
-
'If you think you need a television in your room, you are in the wrong place': Why sleeping under canvas makes for a complete safari experience
A tented safari will surprise even the most seasoned traveller, says Mark Hedges, and nowhere more so than in Botswana, where the rhythms of life seem supercharged.
-
Inside the aristocratic holiday rentals where you can (temporarily) play lord of the manor
It’s now possible to dine or even stay overnight in some of our best-loved country houses or in splendour on their estates.
-
The Swan at Fittleworth review: The 500-year-old inn that’s as popular now as when Turner stayed
The Swan at Fittleworth's previous guests include Kipling, Turner and J. M. Barrie.
-
Pack up your jumpers: Is Scandinavia the new Mediterranean?
Climate change means increasingly unbearable heat and dangerous wildfires across swathes of Europe — so what is the alternative? Words and photographs by Emma Lavelle.
-
Sophia Money-Coutts: Can I get away with flying Business Class if my other half is in Economy?
Sophia Money-Coutts is the new Debrett's and she's here every Wednesday to set some modern etiquette wrongs, right.
-
Neil Armstrong and Sir Edmund Hillary’s joint adventure to the Arctic that you've never heard about and what its re-creation can tell us about the state of Earth
In 1985, Neil Armstrong and Sir Edmund Hillary adventured to the North Pole; 40 years later, their children re-created the expedition.
-
'Truffle hunters are fiercely protective of their favoured spots, often passed down from older generations': The Croatian peninsula with a proud culinary tradition
Blessed with perfect growing conditions, Croatia’s abundant north-western peninsula promises rich pickings for gastronomes.