Jnane Rumi, Marrakech, hotel review: 'The most talked about opening this year — and for good reason'
The Moroccan capital of Marrakech is the world capital of hotels, says Christopher Wallace — and Jnane Rumi is the latest string to its hospitality bow.


There is a case to be made that Marrakech, Morocco, is the world capital of hotels. From boutique riads in the Medina to adobe estates in the desert, the variety and quality is probably unmatched anywhere. Five of my favourite hotels in the whole world are here — and more are popping up all the time.
Easily the most talked about opening this year is the brand-new Jnane Rumi — and for good reason. Or several reasons. I am still, many weeks after my visit, haunted by the hotel’s signature scent, a clear oud (blended with secret spices). I have been craving the marvellous meals I had at tile tables by the pool, shaded by bougainvillea and nodding palm fronds. In fact, the grounds — with a grassy garden dotted with cane chairs and tasselled umbrellas that feels like the set for an enchanted Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, a stony olive grove and a fire pit — probably do not get mentioned enough. That is because the interiors have immediately become a source of obsession online.
If, from the outside, the structure seems to follow classical, rational design (albeit with petrol-blue terracotta-tiled roofs), the décor within each room feels original, site specific and inspired. In my bedroom, a mustard-coloured wall seemed to swoop down, Dalí-like, to a fireplace, where a cherubic marble Don Quixote on his horse sat on the chimneypiece. On the far wall, an antique carved wood lintel shrouded a reading nook and the cathedral-domed skylight made the bathroom look like a Roman emperor’s. It was dazzling — as, I imagine, are all the other, totally different suites.
The cozy communal sitting room seemed at first more sedate, but, on closer examination, kept revealing delightful details, from the tapestry (of, perhaps, weight-lifting Egyptian Pharaohs) by French-born artist Louis Barthé-lemy to the well-chosen collections of books piled here and there. Ditto the Rumi bar, a pink-walled snug with a monumental brass chandelier pendant that scattered soft light on deep cushioned chairs. Yet even as I say that and try to describe the smells and the sights, I seem to get further away from the finger-snapping fizzing feeling of the place.
I wish I could sit down at the corner table outside and tell you more about it. Perhaps over a sizzling seafood tagine or some of the hotel’s spectacular Moroccan wines. Meet you there?
Rooms at Jnane Rumi from €500 a night (00 212 666 208 767)
This feature originally appeared in the July 2, 2025, issue of Country Life. Click here for more information on how to subscribe
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
Christopher Wallace is a writer and photographer. His biography of the late photographer Peter Beard, ‘Twentieth-Century Man: The Wild Life of Peter Beard’, was published by Ecco press. Before going freelance, Wallace was the US Editor of Mr Porter and the Executive Editor of Interview Magazine. His writing has appeared in the New York Times, The Paris Review, and on Substack, among others. Chris was born and raised in Los Angeles and once upon a time made a few short films that won some awards at festivals. Longer ago than that, even, he played college football, before eventually quitting the team to write poetry. He still makes similarly poor career decisions — his words, not ours.
-
A flat for sale in the building where Agatha Christie lived, and it's both the most interesting and most affordable home for sale in Hampstead today
The Isokon Lawn Road flats in Belsize Park are a Grade I-listed architectural icon with a fascinating history, and one of them is currently for sale. Toby Keel takes a look.
-
Guinness, The Beatles and Beckham's first game for England? It can only be the Country Life Quiz of the Day, October 15, 2025
Test your general knowledge in Wednesday's quiz.
-
Here is where to stay on the ancient stretch of Italian coastline that people in the know are calling 'the new Amalfi'
The handsome Villa Talamo in quieter-than-Amalfi south-west Tuscany is now available for exclusive use hire — and it's surrounded by ancient Etruscan history.
-
'The sight of my semi-comatose teenage son draped like a rag doll over the back of a mule has left its scars': Pamela Goodman on the perils of high altitude hiking
The Himalayas are calling Pamela Goodman's name (again), but she knows not to underestimate altitude sickness.
-
Furs class travel: The hotels, superyacht designers and airlines setting new standards for pet-friendly travel
There’s no longer any need to leave your favourite four-legged friend behind when you go on holiday.
-
What is everyone talking about this week: The most beautiful city in Britain, according to AI
Someone asked ChatGPT, Gemini and four other AI systems what the most beautiful city in Britain is — but does the answer spell the end of tour operators?
-
The new rat-pack: the Gen-Z team saving shearwaters and killing invasive species on a remote island in the Irish sea
Meet the twenty-somethings trading clubbing and pub quizzes for bird ringing and hard graft on the Calf of Man.
-
Western Europe's oldest capital wears its ancient history and rich heritage lightly: The Country Life guide to Lisbon, Portugal
Long-time Lisbon resident Mary Lussiana reveals where to stay, what to eat and what to do in the Portuguese capital.
-
Behind-the-scenes at the French film festival you’ve likely never heard of
The annual Deauville American Film Festival is a French-American institution.
-
Flying helicopters, rampaging elephants and painting Ronnie Wood: Hannah Shergold on the Country Life Podcast
The artist — and former Army helicopter pilot — Hannah Shergold joins James Fisher on the Country Life Podcast.