Portofino is Italy's answer to the Garden of Eden. The Splendido hotel put it on the map
The storied Splendido recently emerged from extensive refurbishment. Luke Abrahams checks in to check it out.


The funny thing about Liguria, a region in north-western Italy, is that few people could point it out on a map — unless you told them that it’s where the Splendido is. The hotel, part of Belmond, treads a careful line, attracting everyone — the glitterati, the self-made man, seasoned jet-setters, the British upper crust — and alienating no one.
The destination, Portofino specifically, is postcard perfect and still less crowded than other Italian hotspots, such as Lake Como and the Amalfi Coast. The landscape, all stately villas and private yachts, is a proper Mediterranean mirage, flecked by pines, holm oaks and chestnut trees, roses, jasmine and bougainvillea. If we’re getting biblical here, then Portofino is surely Italy’s answer to the Garden of Eden.
Of course, the Splendido isn’t actually new, but it has been extensively refurbished, with a new, exclusive-use villa, Villa Beatrice, added to the mix — and it’s as splendid and as heavenly as its locale. Once an abandoned Benedictine monastery and then the lavish home of Italian Baron Baratta, this new chapter comes courtesy of one of interior design’s buzziest creators, Martin Brudnizki. ‘The goal was always to reflect and create an homage to Liguria’s architectural heritage,’ says Martin. Liguria’s ‘sense of slow luxury living’ was also referenced, inside and out. Think delicate, pesto-green details, wall frescos of native flowers, glass chandeliers that appear to float mid air and antique furniture sourced from local emporiums.
Although this is all lovely, people don’t come here merely to indulge in Splendido’s subtle luxuries, but rather to immerse themselves in the art of Italy’s greatest pastime, il dolce far niente. At Splendido, lazy, hazy summertime glamour plays out poolside, a private saltwater refuge hemmed in by gardens, where spritz-sipping poster boys and girls do nothing but lounge beside it until dinnertime. In today’s fast-changing and not-always-very-nice world, this sort of a regression is, in fact, progression, ‘the new cool’, if you will.




Portofino’s laid-back lifestyle is further exemplified at La Portofinese Eco-Farm, a form of smallholding in its natural park. Its founder, Mino Viacava, a sixth-generation Portofinan — whose family built many of the bay’s grand villas—works with Splendido, to encourage guests to see what life was like here hundreds of years ago. The guiding principle, masterminded with the late Franca Sozzani, his friend and former Vogue Italia editor-in-chief, was ‘to create something very simple and in honour of our ancestors and their self-sustaining practices,’ says Mino. There are gnarled olive trees, picnic tables with scenic sea views, vineyards, beehives, kitchen gardens and an invitation-only osteria spread louchely on land that tumbles down towards the sea.
Rooms from £2,500 a night; visit the Belmond website for more information and to book
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
Luke Abrahams is a freelance journalist based in London. He specialises in luxury lifestyle journalism, with an emphasis on sustainability, spirituality, culture and history. His work has appeared in 50 global titles across several markets, including British Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, The Times, Condé Nast Traveller, Wallpaper*, ELLE, Town & Country, The Telegraph, Travel + Leisure and House & Garden. He has visited 120 countries and, along the way, has learned the beautiful art of perspective. Italy will always hold a special place in his heart. When Luke is not writing, he often spends most of his time enjoying long walks or long baths.
-
Björn Borg, beavers and barns: Country Life's Quiz of the Day, August 13, 2025
Wednesday's quiz looks at Björn Borg's sensational run at Wimbledon, the weird names for animal homes and a very derelict barn for sale in the Cotswolds.
-
Take over the world or throw a great big party on this private fort for sale in Pembroke
Thorne Island, dubbed the British Alcatraz, has been a £2 million labour of love. Now it could be yours.
-
Seeking substance and style: Island hopping in the Cyclades
There’s more to the Cyclades than headline-making Mykonos and Santorini, says Lucy Halfhead.
-
Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino, hotel review: 'Doing nothing has rarely, if ever, felt so good’
Country Life’s Editor-in-Chief is full of praise for the Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino, built next to the site of an epic battle, on the Greek mainland.
-
Sophia Money-Coutts: I’m going to stay with a friend in her holiday villa. Should I tip — and if so, how?
Many of us would rather fart in public than discuss money, but every now and then it’s unavoidable, writes our columnist.
-
‘Anyone who has once known this land can never be quite free from the nostalgia for it’: The Country Life guide to Sicily
Everything you need to know about Sicily, from where to stay, to what to do (according to locals in the know).
-
Raffles London at The OWO hotel review: How eight years and £1.4 billion transformed the birthplace of Bond
But was it worth it? Emma Hughes checks in.
-
Step into the light: An insider's guide to summer in St Moritz
Your ultimate summer guide to St Moritz — the Swiss mountain resort where the sun shines for more than 300 days a year.
-
Capri, Monte-Carlo, St Tropez and... Somerset: Eight of our favourite fashion pop-ups to have on your radar this summer
Brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Burberry are taking over hotel beach clubs and setting up shop — temporarily at least — in some of Europe's most iconic holiday destinations.
-
'We are not, this cruise company would have us believe, on a cruise': What life is like on a boat designed to rival luxury yacht charter without the price tag
Wave goodbye to your concerns about cruising aboard a small ship in the South of France, says Imogen West-Knights.