While shopping for tourist tat on the famous Khao San Road — a favourite with backpackers — I spotted a t-shirt with the words ‘Yeah same same, but different’ emblazoned on its front.
At the time, I thought it summed up Bangkok perfectly. I’d touched down from Shanghai and my first reaction — on a 3am taxi ride from the airport — had been a simple shrug of indifference. Same, same. The same as plenty of other cities with their monstrously ugly, high-rise buildings and cluttered streets. At first glance, Bangkok was best described as an all-you-can-eat buffet of madness (the kind that leaves you with a bad tummy).
However, after a few days exploring, I came to realise that the city’s ugliness and downright craziness is a part of its charm. The smells of spices and incense, spiralling through the air, border on euphoric, and the city’s endless palaces, with their glittering spires, are a real feast for the eyes. The ears? Well, the soundtrack of beeping tuk-tuks and swearing cab drivers isn’t exactly pleasant — but it’s fitting.
It is the ultimate Asian megacity incarnate, and that’s why people love it.
Still sceptical? Like me, you just need to know where to stay and eat and what to do to truly appreciate it all. Cue the guide.
Where to stay
This grande dame of the Bangkok hotel scene — and recent star of season three of The White Lotus — was the first luxury hotel in the city to open its doors. And despite all the buzz surrounding its neighbours, it still manages to retain its status as being the undisputed best.
Over the decades, royals, socialites, celebrities, literary greats and the fashion glitterati have checked in — and now me, at three in the morning. Despite the ungodly hour, the service is still stellar.
It’s a jewel box of a place, draped in florals, tropicana prints, chandeliers and storied knick-knacks. The rooms and suites are split across three wings — the original Oriental Hotel, the mid-century Garden wing and a more modern extension, which is where I stay, in a River Suite. Most have full or partial vistas of the Chao Phraya River and perhaps the most refreshing thing about the hotel is that it’s not here to chase trends. Instead, the décor is its own clean take on South East Asian style: white and wood-panelled walls that bask in the glow of porcelain lamps, white teak furniture and fresh flowers from Pak Khlong Talad market.
The food? I only had time for the full buffet breakfast — tasty, but the eggs were flat — and lunch, another epic all-you-can-eat international foodie affair. The dim sum and bread and butter pudding were especially good.
Capella Bangkok, a Leading Hotel of the World
This is a hotel that screams: ‘We’re done with all the fads and outlandish interiors’, from the moment you step into its sleek and understated marble tea lounge and it is a really great option for discerning travellers in their late 20s or 30s who want to stay somewhere modern and low-key.
So, what’s all the hype about? The service is superior to all the other flashier hotels surrounding it. Capella Culturists — a sort of concierge service — are on hand day and night. Ask one of them to put together a personalised list of places to visit. Mine suggested a day tour of Ayutthaya and an alternative tour of Bangkok.
The food is a highlight. There’s a shiny pan-European-inspired option called Côte, and Phra Nakhon, home to a fiery Thai tasting menu. The breakfast was one of the best I had in the city.
The rooms come in more categories than necessary, from top-notch river suites (among the only of their kind in the city) to high-rise city slicker-style pads with balconies. Views of the skyline are a priority in all of them — and you can often spy the river from the bed, tub and desk.
My friend Pietro asked his AI assistant to show him what a hotel in 1980s Bangkok looked like and low and behold something that looked startlingly similar to The Peninsula Bangkok appeared on his phone screen. It is currently undergoing a discreet, but all-encompassing renovation — but I hope that they don’t change too much. The fact that it looks like an 80s throwback is no bad thing.
My favourite amenity are the ‘cultural walks’, led by Mo, a local historian. Tours take in the local neighbourhood of Thonburi, lesser-known temples, Wat Prayun, the Goowatin Islam Mosque and the Guan Yu Shrine. Along the way, some of the monitor lizards who live in the city’s sewers popped out to say hello.
Where to eat and drink
Very Nice Bar, Talat Noi
This low-key spot in Talat Noi is best described as ‘cozy’ and the food is on par with somewhere that sells posh bar snacks (though here you’ll be eating fried lotus and not a Scotch egg).
The drinks are the real reason that people flock to Very Nice Bar: sake, local Thai beers and umeshu are plentiful, but take a punt on the Matcha Spritz.
Err Urban Rustic Thai, near Wat Po
The funky one-room restaurant is Thai drinking done good. The entire place is open to the elements, so if you are visiting in the harsh summer months don’t expect any respite from the heat.
Trendy art, mismatched chairs and communal tables set the alternative tone from the outset. It’s not at all touristy and the skewers are a must.
Ms Maria and Mr Singh, Watthana
Ms Maria and Mr Singh is casual concept-style dining from one of Bangkok’s most acclaimed chefs, Anand Gaggan — inspired by the fictional tale of a Mexican girl (Ms Maria) and an Indian boy’s (Mr Singh) love affair.
The food is Mexican-Indian fusion. Oaxaca meets Jodhpur. Think eggplant bharta taco and keema quesadilla.
Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu, Phra Nakhon
This hole-in-the-wall restaurant serves up good-quality food (the Pad Thai with prawns is excellent) at great prices. It is a wonderful example of Bangkok’s burgeoning wok scene — and it’s a joy to watch the magic happen.
Restaurant POTONG, Samphanthawong
Chef Pichaya 'Pam' Soontornyanakij, the winner of Asia's Best Female Chef 2024 award, lives up to the hype bestowed upon her with this multi-award-winning Thai-Chinese fusion restaurant.
The Bamboo Bar, Riverside District
The Bamboo Bar has been around for 70 years, so it’s not one you want to miss — especially if you are staying at the nearby Mandarin Oriental. People come here to be seen — and for the jazz — but there’s a pleasingly timeless atmosphere.
What to do
Wat Arun Buddhist temple on the banks of the Chao Phraya river.
The flower markets
It was here, in the flower market, that I truly fell in love with Bangkok. Pak Khlong Talat is the largest and it’s open 24/7, but try to go in the early morning when local buyers fight for the freshest piles of orchids, garlands and every other bloom imaginable. While you’re there, explore the exotic fruit and vegetable shops and stands in the market side streets.
Chinatown
You can’t miss it, and outside of mainland China, this is probably one of the most authentic odes to the Dragon Kingdom that I’ve come across. It can all become a tad much in the soaring heat, but the great selection of bars and Michelin Guide eateries makes the sweat that little bit more bearable.
Stock up at a 7-Eleven
Hear me out: this American chain is on almost every street corner, but its dirt cheap and you can pick up products such as Tiger Balm for a fraction you would pay here, or in the USA.
Warehouse 30
Warehouse 30 is a refurbished, Second World War-era building that’s now home to a cluster of shops, arts and crafts workshops and cafes, as well as a rotating programme of exhibitions and talks. It’s a fabulous example of Thai creativity and ingenuity.
Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace
The entrance to the Dusit Maha Prasad throne hall inside the Grand Palace.
The Grand Palace is on every guidebook cover, so it’s one you simply should not skip, regraldess of how vast the crowds are. That said, go early to avoid the worst of it. The oldest parts of the palace, the former seat of Thailand’s royal family, date back to 1782.
Visit the adjacent Wat Phra Kaew to see the country’s most sacred religious artifact, the Emerald Buddha which was, in fact, made from jade, back in the 12th or 13th centuries.
Papaya
After exploring Bangkok’s famous night markets and Chatuchak Weekend Market (one of the largest markets in the world), chances are you might never want to see another grand outdoor bazaar again. However, Papaya is worth the extra strain on your credit card.
The four-storey antique store is more an ode to 19th and 20th century curios than it is a glorified department store — think of it as a museum of nostalgia.
Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya was capital of the Kingdom of Siam from 1350 until razed by the Burmese in 1767. The ruins of the old city now form the Ayutthaya Historical Park, an archaeological site.
A half day tour to Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital, is well worth the 90 minutes drive out of the city If you manage to find a decent taxi driver, you can do it all for as little as 2,000 baht (about £45) — and they will whizz you around all of the main temples, no questions asked.
Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Wat Mahathat are among the most beautiful.
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