If you’d told me I’d have the best night’s sleep in a long, long time in a nearly 500-year-old inn, I would have been skeptical. Perhaps that’s why The Swan at Fittleworth has been so popular, for so long.
The Swan has always been more than just a place for bed and board. Guests include Rudyard Kipling, J. M. Barrie, John Constable, J. M. W. Turner and Millicent Fawcett, to name just a few. The recently rediscovered guest books — filled with signatures, sketches (including one of the first motor cars arriving in the village) and even a surprise entry from the local historian’s grandmother — could inspire a novel of their own. Today, its 12 bedrooms are named after former visitors, a nod to its storied past. Above the bar hangs the original inn sign, a reminder that this has always been a house for travellers.
The Swan’s magic is that it still feels like a traditional inn, with bowed-beam ceilings (if you’re over 5ft 8, mind your head), a wood-panelled dining room and rabbit warren-like passages that had us happily lost more than once. At the same time, interiors by Zanna Westgate layer in the kind of softness and comfort that make it feel instantly like home: super-king beds with blankets you’ll want to steal, Verden toiletries (I ordered the D’Orangerie soap before I’d even checked out), and a book selection curated by Arthur Bullard of Petworth’s Readers’ Books.
Our room, Sambourne — inspired by Linley, the 19th-century Punch illustrator — was split-level, with dark blues and soft reds, wools and linens by Robert Kime, and a large dormer window. The bathroom had one of the best showers I’ve ever used and a freestanding bath, essential after a hike through the South Downs. There was a well-stocked tea and coffee station, though as someone who needs a milky cup of tea the moment I wake up, a mini-fridge wouldn’t go amiss. For the less caffeine-dependent — or the keener step-counters — the honesty bar a flight of stairs away will do nicely. And if you’re here with a new partner, you might want to request a room with a bathroom door…
Under Chez Bruce-alumnus Angus Davies, you could visit The Swan for the food alone. I always check the pudding menu first — to strategise accordingly. We tucked into scallops in garlic butter, soused mackerel, sea bream with cucumber salad and aioli, plus chips for good measure — and more aioli for… good measure. Then, as planned, the profiteroles. I’d first had them in a Lodsworth pub years ago — so good I wondered if I’d dreamt them.
The Swan at a glance
- Best rooms Turner and Woodville for extra space and dog-friendly access; Sambourne, with its Robert Kime fabrics and freestanding bath, is another favourite
- Nice touch The boot room, complete with wellies, waterproofs and trail maps
- Nearby Arundel Castle, Cowdray polo and farm shop, Goodwood, Kinsbrook vineyard
Breakfast was a continental spread of smoked salmon, honey-roast ham, eggs and warm bread, alongside cooked options, from a proper full English, to buttered kippers with lemon. It’s all best enjoyed in the new garden, created in consultation with Elizabeth Tyler — where boules courts and fruit trees meet to create a slice of the Mediterranean in rural Sussex. On a sunny day it’s easy to linger, though a walk will help work up an appetite for the garden lunch menu of wood-fired pizzas, antipasti and, to finish, soft-serve with a Flake.
The historic inn is, perhaps most importantly, dog-friendly and perfectly placed for exploring West Sussex. Seasonal highlights include polo at Cowdray, Goodwood’s festival season and the region’s vineyards, now destinations in their own right; while year-round treasures include Turner’s paintings at Petworth House. The neighbouring town of the same name is brimming with antiques and bookshops. Jewellery lovers should make a beeline for Barbara Tipple; fashion hunters will unearth vintage Chanel and McQueen at L’Éternel Dress Agency.
Almost five centuries after it first opened, The Swan still knows what travellers need: a good bed, good food — and plenty on the doorstep.
From £195 on a bed-and-breakfast basis; visit The Swan's website for more information and to book
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