Rosie Paterson
New York has the First Monday in May, better known as The Met Gala; and Geneva has The First Week of April, better known as Watches and Wonders. Each year, the Swiss city is flooded with watch industry buffs clutching at their loupes (ok, perhaps their iPhones, mini mics and ring lights these days), galvanised for a week of what can only be described as horological hysteria. April 1 through to 4 was for industry insiders, but for the third year running, the show opened to the public for the ensuing weekend.
Things kick off on the Tuesday, when my email inbox fills to the brim with press releases announcing new watches from every brand of note (plus, some of the small and independent ones, too). However, seeing these magnificent timepieces on screen doesn’t come close to touching them — and trying them on — in real life.
More than 60 global brands — from Rolex, TAG Heuer and Patek Philippe, to Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels and (new to the Palexpo Genève show-space), Bvlgari — build vast and elaborate booths. Turning up with an entire Formula 1 (F1) car or a fighter jet isn’t unheard of. In fact, it’s probably encouraged and is the perfect backdrop to those much-needed social media moments. If you’re lucky, you’ll rub shoulders with a celebrity ambassador or two; this year, Roger Federer was on the arm of Rolex.
So, without further ado, here are a few of my top moments from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025:
Hermès’ Arceau Rocabar de Rire
Oh, how this piece stole my heart instantly; dare I say it was my favourite of the show? Possibly because it encouraged the traditionally staid audience to chuckle. The Arceau watch was designed by Henri d'Origny in 1978, but its recent cheeky transformation captivates children and adults alike. Strip back the humour though, and you’ll discover that the craftsmanship is still exquisite and creative, employing horsehair marquetry, engraving and miniature painting.
The design is a reimagining of Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s mischievous horse, which originally appeared on the Rocabar de Rire silk scarf. The animal’s tongue sticks out and retracts thanks to a spring mechanism connected to a 9 o'clock pusher. Each watch is a numbered 12-piece limited edition.
Price on application
Patek Philippe’s Shantung silk-inspired 4946R-001 Annual Calendar
There’s something about the rich texture of fabric that has inspired a few watches this year; Cartier for one, but the knock out example was Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar ref 4946R-001. Just look at the brown dial’s mesmerising depth of tone and colour.
The new, rose gold model is 38mm and the dial ‘is enhanced by a double vertically and horizontally satin-brushed finish reminiscent of shantung silk fabrics’. It’s all in clever contrast to the brown calfskin strap with a denim pattern and cream stitching.
Invented and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, the Annual Calendar mechanism displays the day, date and month — and requires only one manual correction a year (towards the end of February).
From £ 47,440
Cartier’s Tank à Guichets
Every year, the Grand Dame of the jewellery world reimagines one of their iconic watch creations. This time round it was the turn of the Tank à Guichets, first designed in 1928.
The Guichets behaves like a modern digital watch, but it has the brain of the highly intelligent calibre 9755 MC hand-wound, with jumping hours and dragging minutes. The bold design has a strength that mimics the original — a modern classic, particularly in a brushed gold.
Gold Tank à Guichets from £43,500
Rolex’s Land-Dweller
A white Rolesor version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller in size 40mm.
The honeycomb dial on the new Land-Dweller is just delicious, and rather unisex in style, thanks to the fact that it comes in two sizes (36mm and 40mm) and a variety of colourways.
The Land-Dweller marks a new chapter in the Rolex story, sported by tennis legend Roger Federer in advance of the show (shock horror) in what was actually rumoured to be a deliberate ploy to drum up interest. We can see why Roger was so keen to get on with it though; the integrated bracelet strap is so tactile and seamless, it simply begs to be worn.
However, most excitingly, it houses a brand-new movement that beats at a frequency of 5Hz with a revolutionary escapement, named Dynapulse.
From £12,250
Parmigiani’s TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca
Hetty Lintell wearing Parmigiani’s new colourway.
Parmigiani’s TONDA now boasts a bold new colourway; Verzasca Green, inspired by the crystalline water of the Swiss valley of the same name.
The timepiece was originally unveiled in 2022 and made headlines for its sleek dual-time function (two hour hands to indicate the time in two different time zones) and super-refined style. Press the pusher located between 7 and 8 o'clock and the upper hand will jump forward by an hour to reveal a second one which stays as is to display the wearer's 'home time'. Press the crown-integrated pushbutton to reposition the second time zone hand neatly back on top of the other one.
As ever, there’s no date or time window — just an unbroken flash of coloured dial. It’s a breath of fresh (Swiss) air in an industry that often piles complication on complication in order to impress.
From CHF28,700
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