Ashford Castle is unlike anywhere I have ever stayed before. Nestled in a 350-acre estate in Co Mayo, Ireland, the exterior of the building is magnificent and looms large on the horizon as we wind towards the entrance, which is flanked by two stone statues of Irish wolfhounds. Many guests don’t drive to Ashford Castle, my chauffeur informs us on the way, referring to the estate’s helipad. ‘How often is it used?’ I ask. ‘I have actually seen a queue of helicopters before,’ he says.
Located on the shores of Lough Corrib, which comes with 365 miniature islands, the 800-year old castle is the only Forbes Five Star hotel and spa in Ireland. It is also one of the former homes of the Guinness family, who elevated the estate when it was in their ownership, making it one of Ireland’s most celebrated landmarks — timely for any fans of The House of Guinness, which follows the story of Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness’s four children.
Fionn O'Shea, Louis Partridge, Anthony Boyle and Emily Fairn all star in 'The House of Guinness'.
Originally built in 1228 by the Anglo-Norman de Burgo family, the castle was purchased by Sir Benjamin, the head of the brewing dynasty, in 1852. He expanded the estate significantly and used it to entertain guests — among them, George V — and display the family's wealth and influence. After his death, the castle was inherited by his son, Lord Ardilaun. It remained the property of the Guinness family until it was passed to the Iveagh Trust on their behalf and then sold, in 1939, to the hotelier Noel Huggard. In 2013 it was purchased by the Red Carnation Hotel Collection, which is owned by the Tollman family. ‘The impact the Tollman family have had is Guinness-esque,’ says Niall Rochford, the managing director of the estate. Case in point: sustainability has become key to the hotel's daily operations. They have partnered with EarthCheck and are on a journey to reach net-zero emissions by 2050.
Ashford Castle still has ties to the famous brewing family. In December, to mark the centenary anniversary of Lady Ardilaun’s death, the castle will host an exclusive evening in the company of four members of the Guinness family — Charles Plunket, Susan Woodruff, Sir Kenelm Guinness and Arthur Edward Guinness, 4th Earl of Iveagh.
Having undergone a two-part renovation in 2014 and 2015, to say the 83-room hotel is impressive would be an understatement. It is luxury personified: with rich fabrics of red and blue, glittering chandeliers and sparkling service. Many members of the staff have worked at Ashford Castle for decades, and it shows. The property has hospitality at its very core. Regina O'Donoghue, the director of marketing, has been at the castle for 20 years, ‘I started when I was seven,’ she jokes.
The rooms
The King's room makes for a decadent stay.
I stayed in the King’s Room. Yes, the very same that the Prince of Wales, before he became George V, rested in — which gave me a licence to request everyone refer to me as ‘Your Majesty’ for the duration of my trip.
It has sweeping views of the lough, a working fireplace, plush red armchairs and sofas and a sumptuous velvet blue four-poster bed. The highlight of my stay? An Irish wolfhound, made out of chocolate, waiting for me on my coffee table when I arrived. The global director of chocolate and pâtisserie Paula Stakelum is, quite frankly, a Willy Wonka-level genius, and was kind enough to gift me a few more chocolates to take home.
Eating and drinking
The George V dining room is popular among those celebrating a special occasion.
When you’re not full to the brim with chocolate dog, there are plenty of places to eat. For a lazy morning, order breakfast to your room, and enjoy anything from a plate of cured meats, to fresh fruits and eggs Benedict. For lunch, take traditional afternoon tea in the Connaught Room, where Lord and Lady Ardilaun hosted the likes of Oscar Wilde and George Bernard Shaw.
For dinner, your options are endless. I dined twice, firstly in The George V Dining Room, which was built to honour The Prince of Wales in 1905. The tasting menu is divine — think fresh tuna tartare and creamy truffle risotto — and popular with visitor's celebrating a special occasion. However, my favourite meal was at the rather more pared back Cullens at the Cottage which specialises in fresh seafood and excellent service.
How they’ll keep you busy
The spa at Ashford Castle.
How won’t they? There's falconry, horseback riding, dog walks with the estate’s frankly gigantic Irish wolfhounds (real, not chocolate), a tour of the kitchen garden, clay pigeon shooting, evenings in the castle’s cinema (it has its own popcorn station), kayaking, archery, fishing, tennis and a nine-hole golf course.
The castle's spa was among my favourite experiences. It has a swimming pool with a mosaic wall so beautiful it took me aback and I had a massage and facial so relaxing I almost fell asleep. However, the best experience was, undoubtedly, a boat trip to one of the islands on the lough. A man called John motored me out, past a stone obelisk. ‘My ancestors put that there,’ he told me, recounting how used to swim in the lake as a child and fish in it today for trout and salmon — a testament to how those who work at Ashford Castle are more than just employees. When I arrived two waiters were in position, next to a crackling log fire, with glasses of Champagne. It was magical.
What else to do while you’re there
Maybe an unorthodox suggestion from someone who visited in October but: take a dip in the lough at sunrise. A rather wine-sodden plan cooked up at dinner the night before saw me plunging into its icy waters at 7:30am with two other guests and the restaurant and wine manager Robert Bowe, who has worked at Ashford Castle since 1987. I’ve never been colder, but it was the defining memory of my trips, hands down.
Who is it for?
Pierce Brosnan, if history is anything to go by. He got married here and couldn’t tie his bow tie, so he asked Robert for help and gifted him the bowtie afterwards. (This depends on if you believe Robert’s stories which many of the hotel’s staffers had warned me to take with a pinch of salt.) Christine Baranski comes twice a year; and Brad Pitt, Fred Astaire, Sharon Stone and John Travolta are among those that have also stayed.
Oh and at someone’s wedding, when Murder On The Dancefloor was playing, singer Sophie Ellis-Bextor happened to be staying and hopped up on stage to join the wedding band.
What gives it the wow factor?
The staff. They were the best part of the experience and went out of their way to make me feel at home. Oh, and the chocolate dog. I think about him often.
The one thing we’d change
The lock on my bathroom door. I was trapped in there for half an hour shouting ‘help’ out of the window to anyone who would hear. Only one man did. A very angry American who shouted back: ‘I’m on the phone’. When I finally did escape, maintenance informed me that nothing was broken, the lock was just old and I weak-wristed. They also mentioned that there was a landline in the bathroom — which I had clearly failed to notice. But, with heated floors, a cosy bathrobe and a marvellous bathtub with views overlooking the loch, there really are worse places to be trapped for 30 minutes.
Insider tip
Ashford Castle’s sister hotel, The Lodge, offers the Ashford Castle experience at a more affordable price point — ideal if you’re less bothered about staying in the castle itself and more keen to spend your money experiencing its dining options and activities. Although once you’ve stayed in the castle, it is hard to imagine staying anywhere else ever again.
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