‘I only ever want to be there when the circus is in town’: Everything you need to know about Cannes ahead of the famous Film Festival

There’s the fantasy of the Cannes Film Festival and then the reality. I know, because I attend each year as a film critic, and I recall how my wide-eyed notions of being absorbed into Riviera glamour were shaken on my first day by the Croisette promenade — fighting through crowds of people waiting for a glimpse of Monsieur and Madame Clooney. How naive I was: seersuckered up, head fuzzy from a €12 Ricard, unprepared for what veteran visitors call the ‘Circus’ of Cannes. I even took an accidental elbow to the face. And yet, I loved every moment of that trip.

I still do. The same stark realities of the Cannes circus are why the film festival is such a thrilling experience, whether you’re actively attending the screenings or simply visiting to soak up its atmosphere.

For those two weeks in May, Cannes becomes the Shangri-La of Cinéma and celebrity, and the cocktail of visitors from near and far brings with it an infectious sense of fun and glamour. Just don’t try to navigate around the Croisette at lunch time.

There’s still plenty of fantasy. I met Harrison Ford on an evening out at dinner. My boyhood hero Indiana Jones commented on my neck tie’s regimental stripes after I mustered the courage to say hello. ‘Bet you thought I didn’t know about regimental stripes, did ya, sonny?’ he said, in the most Indiana Jones manner of speaking. I forgot the rest of our conversation, but it’s a story that could only have unfolded on a night by the Croisette.

As I prepare for another edition of the festival — and as a creature of habit — I find myself reflecting on where I’m most looking forward to dining, staying, and spending my time off. I’m sure Cannes is a great trip when the festival is over, too, and these tips will serve you just as well.

But I wouldn’t know. I only ever want to be there when the circus is in town.

Where to stay

Rooms at the grande dames of the Croisette — like the Barrière Majestic or the Martinez — are all but impossible to secure during the festival. Or indeed the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc (above), which will be occupied by the Pitts and Scorseses. But if I could have my pick, it would be to stay at The Carlton. After a six-year restoration, this century-old institution still oozes To Catch a Thief glamour (the film was partly shot there), and has been reimagined as a modern resort with five star service across the board. By all accounts, it’s more dazzling than ever.

But remember: the Croisette will be overwhelmingly busy. Unless you enjoy navigating a sea of selfie sticks, I would look to Le Suquet as your base. The charming old town winds along a hill with quaint cobbled streets and walls, some which date back to the 10th century, draped in pink bougainvillea. The eponymous Le Suquet hotel is a haven of respite, featuring comfortable rooms with sea views, a secluded swimming pool, and an excellent old school brasserie and bar.

A few more to consider: Hotel Splendid, a lavish family-run property near the old port and just minutes from the Palais; Okko, a sleek, budget-friendly hotel that hosts festival screenings; and the chic Five Seas Hotel, known for its private beach and spa.

Hotels in Cannes are a lottery ticket during the festival. Many of us press commute from the quieter, and arguably more quaint, neighbouring towns of Juan Les Pins or Antibes. It’s either a 20 minute taxi or a 15 minute train ride to Cannes, so unless you’re racing to a succession of 8am screenings, it works out fine. In Antibes, I like La Villa Fabulite, which features rooms that open onto a Mediterranean garden blooming with lemon, orange, and olive trees. Bliss.

My favourite hotels here are the historic 1930s establishments that are synonymous with the Riviera’s Jazz Age heritage. The Hotel Juana is a delightfully atmospheric place to stay, capturing the magic of that time. Sitting at the bar, I sometimes imagine the laughter and clink of glasses from a century ago, when the glitterati holidayed on this storied coastline. The Juana’s slightly more luxurious, and famous, twin is the Hôtel Belle Rives where F Scott Fitzgerald wrote Tender is the Night. The service is top notch. But whether you decide on Cannes or Antibes, you have plenty of interesting, and conveniently located, options to make the most of the festival.

Where to eat

Cannes has its share of Michelin favourites and tourist traps, but if you scratch the surface, there are plenty of culinary gems.

My favourite restaurant in Cannes is Fred L’écailler (above), an upscale but unfussy fish taverna situated by the Place Étang — a large petanque court which is romantically lit up by night. It is where my editor hosts his annual Filmmakers Dinner, and where Fred Garbellini, the restaurant’s energetic owner (and real-life Captain Haddock), serves freshly caught, beautifully prepared seafood in a setting as intimate as your dining room. Fred’s has become a happy place.

For dinner with friends, I also like the busy Italian restaurant Le Tredici in Le Suquet. Everyone goes there to eat their freshly made Neapolitan pizza and pasta dishes, but that’s because it has always been good, and because of its romantic terrace which stretches along a cobbled hill. I have witnessed two proposals at Le Tredici — a tribute to its amorous ambiance.

My most recommended lunch spot in town is the unpretentious Xuan Le Printemps. Located by a peaceful square at the base of Le Suquet, the owners serve the best Vietnamese food I have eaten outside of Hanoi. Over the past few years, more people are discovering its excellent pho and bun cha, making it harder to grab a seat on the terrace.

I have spent an unhealthy amount of time trying out the azure kiosk snack bars (above) that dot the city’s coastline, and I must insist on them as the greatest al fresco spots in Cannes. As they’re independently owned, some are good and others aren’t. They’re numbered, not named, and for my money the best ones are: 3, 8, 17 (next to the Palais), and 32. The speciality here is the Pan Bagnat, the trademark Provencal sandwich: a crusty bap stuffed with a Niçoise salad of tuna, olives, capers, eggs, tomatoes; sometimes spicy and always washed down with a bottle of sparkling Orangina.

I never miss an afternoon at Kiosk 3. Enjoying the quality of their sandwiches and the sense of peace overlooking an isolated stretch of beach away from the Croisette is one of my ritual pleasures. The husband-wife owners prepare their sandwiches daily, but they also offer the slightly more affordable option to buy ‘yesterday’s sandwich’, ‘Pan Hier', which is sometimes preferred in Provence because of how the olive oil has soaked through the bread and made a salty, congealed mess that is absolutely superior.

If you’re in Antibes during the festival, try to get a seat at Chez Mamo. As you walk through the bar, beset by photographs of the stars (with Mr Mamo himself), the dimly-lit dining room becomes a theatre of who’s-sitting-with-who? On two occasions, I've been placed beside some rather notorious guests. But in any case, Mamo’s truffle pizza must now be as famous as some of the Hollywood regulars themselves.

Things to do

Now we’re getting somewhere. Since you’re at the greatest film festival on earth (sorry, Venice), you will want to watch a movie.

If you have accreditation as press (or otherwise) you can access the Le Palais des Festivals and Congrès and enjoy the competition screenings.

This year, I’m looking forward to Spike Lee’s newest outing with Denzel Washington and Wes Anderson’s crime caper The Phonecian Scheme. There will be plenty of buzz around Alpha, by the divisive art house director Julia Ducournau, who took home the Palme d’Or in 2021 for Titane. Each morning, when the reviews are aggregated and published in the free festival paper, the brasseries downtown murmur with rumours, scandal, arguments, and friendly bets over winners and flops. Soaking it up is one of the pleasures of breakfast-ing in Cannes.

Many visitors during the festival are here for the atmosphere and to watch the stars parade the red carpet. But there are fortunately two types of public accreditation, if you apply early enough: ‘Three Days in Cannes’ for students, and ‘Cinephiles’ for those who have a cinema membership or who attend film clubs. You can learn more here.

Every night, a film is screened to festival-goers and the public on the Plage Macé and it is a magical experience, as your toes dig into the sand and the credits of a classic movie begin to play out to a Mediterranean sunset. The Cinéma de la Plage (below) is free to attend and fills up fast, but it is something you’ll never forget.

Day off? Buy an ice cream at La Gelateria and follow the hill along Le Suquet to the mediaeval district of Mont Chevalier. You’ll be exhausted by the top, but your reward is a spectacular view overlooking the sea. I also enjoy strolling along the bustling Old Port to peep at the yachts docked from all around the world, here for the festival.

The Marché Forville market is abundant with flowers and fresh produce, if you’re interested in witnessing daily Cannoise life. Another ritual of mine is to copy the locals and procure a deliciously seasoned rotisserie chicken at the market and pick at it, rather ungraciously, by the port. They also have freshly baked pastries (much less messy) and souvenirs to bring back home.

Otherwise, head over to Antibes to explore the Musée Picasso in the former Chateau Grimaldi. Or rent a car and drive out half-an-hour to the artists’ mecca of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. For a brief moment, you will have woken up from the festival fever dream.

But you’ll be excited to return. A trip to Cannes during the festival offers an addictive sense of unreality. And for me and my critic colleagues, that’s as close as it gets to being in the movies.