Greatest Recipes Ever: Mark Hix’s crayfish cooked in beer with wild fennel
Tom Parker Bowles chooses Mark Hix’s crayfish cooked in beer with wild fennel as one of his greatest recipes ever


‘A classic Hix concoction, and one that puts these wretched American invaders to fine use. I first tasted it when he put on a crayfish feast at one of his old restaurants. Hix is a legend'
Tom Parker Bowles
Crayfish cooked in beer with wild fennel
Extract from Mark Hix's British Regional Food
Published by Quadrille in 2006
To serve 4-6
2½ pints of beer 1tbsp fennel seeds 1tbsp black peppercorns 1tbsp sea salt 4lb live crayfish Handful of wild fennel or dill, chopped
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When I was in Finland a couple of years ago, I was lucky enough to arrive in prime crayfish season. At this time of year, the Finns pay crazy money for crayfish, washed down with strong shots of aquavit. In New Orleans, I also witnessed a crayfish ‘boil' up in a remote part of the Mississippi, with jazz band and all.
So why shouldn't we cele-brate the culling of these tiny delicacies that are overrunning our British waters? Can we convince ourselves that crayfish feasts are the way forward with a clear conscience?
For those concerned about dispatching live shellfish in a humane way, the RSPCA recommend first putting them in the freezer for about two hours beforehand so they go to sleep. Method
Pour the beer into a saucepan with about 600ml (1pt) water. Add the fennel seeds, peppercorns and salt, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the crayfish, bring back to the boil and simmer for three minutes. Add the fennel and simmer for another two minutes, then drain and serve immediately.
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