As September beckons, so does the return of oyster season — a fruit de mer that should only be consumed in months containing the letter ‘r’. Last week, I caught up with Mitch Tonks, the celebrated chef behind Rockfish restaurants in Dartmouth, Bristol and Salcombe, and learned how to build the perfect seafood platter — with oysters at the heart.
What are the must-haves of any seafood platter?
Oysters are central. Langoustines. Fresh crab. Also bulot (cooked whelks) or winkles, local prawns, brown shrimps (if you can find them). Finally, a few raw clams.
And what should one avoid?
I’m not a fan of cooked shellfish on a platter unless the whole thing is hot — otherwise you’ve got a mixed grill, which in my view is something different.
A seafood platter should also have fish. How does one prepare this without it becoming messy?
If the fish is roasted, run your knife along the central lateral line and gently push off the flesh in the direction of the bone, using two spoons. Then gently portion it.
Crudo has become a popular way of serving fish, but how does one know it’s safe?
For crudo, make sure you use really fresh fish and prepare it on a clean surface. You should get your produce from a reputable fishmonger who takes care with their prep. If the fish is very fresh, it shouldn’t have much of a smell and the flesh will be firm.
How do you recommend preparing lobster or crab?
Cut the lobsters in half and crack the claws. Do the same with the crab, but discard the dead man's fingers and cut the body into four. Then, leave it at that: the joy of shellfish is in using your fingers and getting messy. Some people find it a bit daunting being faced with a big beast and a couple of utensils, but it makes the eating part all the more rewarding.
Should you avoid oysters or other shellfish in hot weather?
Only if they have been left out of the fridge. That doesn’t mean you can’t eat fresh oysters in the sun on a beach, or a food stall in France so long as they’ve been stored at the right temperature. What could be better?
What wine should you serve?
Super cold whites. Vinho verde is good, or sparkling wine from Sugrue in the South Downs is to die for. The rule, however, is to always drink what you like. For me, the fresher and greener in taste, the better.
What if you fancy red?
Some reds pair beautifully with seafood. I love a chilled gamay. When I was in Puglia recently, I was drinking full wines like negroamaro that were delicious chilled and served with some fish.
How can you make sure you are using fish that has been responsibly sourced?
Look for fish that has been caught locally. At Rockfish, our fisheries are well managed and much of our supply comes from fish that has landed on the quayside in Brixham, Devon. With any species that aren’t native to Britain, however, make sure it has the MSC accreditation. If it does, then it is fully traceable back to the boat it came from and you know that it’s been responsibly sourced.
Finally, what sides should you serve?
Bread and butter, a crisp salad and some good chips.
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