Gilders, goldsmiths, embroiderers and engravers: It takes a 2,000-man village to make the world's most coveted fan
If you only buy one fan, make it one from Duvelleroy.
When Marie-Caroline of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchesse du Berry held a costume ball to mark the arrival of Mary Stuart of Scotland at the Tuileries in 1829, she insisted on a quadrille (a dance performed by four couples in a rectangular formation) that could only be done if one carried a fan.
It revived a fashion lost during the French Revolution and transformed Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy’s dream into an illustrious business.
The 25-year-old éventailliste (fan-maker) established his company in Paris in 1827 to produce hand fans from fine materials using artisanal techniques.
A 'Vogue' model photographed with a feather fan by Duvelleroy in 1935.
Designs were inspired by artists, the natural world and culture, painted onto paper or threaded with feathers. Mounts (the part held in the hand) were made with wood including birch, ebony and beech; mother-of-pearl, ivory, and galalith can be chosen today.
In 1843, Duvelleroy patented a mould that made it possible to cold-pleat delicate fabrics enabling silks, lace and tulle to be painted or embroidered, at the same time as preserving their lightness.
This frame from about 1895 has a sequined tulle and white mother-of-pearl frame.
About 2,000 métiers, including gilders, plumassiers, mirror-makers, painters, embroiderers, goldsmiths and engravers were sourced by Duvelleroy (up to 20 artisans worked on each fan), earning his metaphorical reputation as an orchestra conductor.
Materials are still decorated and individually hand-pleated, fold by fold, on an identical model.
Queen Victoria was so taken by the collection shown at the Great Exhibition of 1851, which included a fan made especially for her, that she swiftly appointed Duvelleroy as supplier to the Queen, and the European courts followed.
The London boutique opened at No 167, Regent Street in 1861 and published a booklet explaining the coded messages of fan gestures, such as twirling in the left hand (‘we are watched’) and carrying in the left hand in front of the face (‘desirous of acquaintance’).
The company maintains young Jean-Pierre’s founding vision: to craft exquisite fans and return them to the hands of all.
This contemporary design uses organza petals to add a feeling of lightness to the object.
Duvelleroy's couture fans, handmade in Paris, start from €950; Fashion fans, handmade in Spain, start from €67. Visit the website for more information.
This feature originally appeared in the August 12, 2026, issue of Country Life. Click here for more information on how to subscribe
