The breathtaking Cornish cove that's 'like something from a fantasy'
Ben Lerwill takes a look at Kynance Cove, the 'scenic highlight of the Lizard Peninsula'.


Toby Keel
The Cornish coastline stretches for 422 miles, reaches heights of 732ft (at High Cliff, above Rusey Beach) and includes more than 300 beaches. The statistics tell just a tiny part of the tale, though, as Ben Lerwill writes in the May 21 issue of Country Life. 'This is a serpentine land-meets-seascape of ancient inlets and tumbling waves, of rearing cliffs and sun-caught spindrift, of smugglers’ caverns and soft sands, of winds that roar off the ocean and headlands that stand immutable,' writes Ben. 'Cornwall is a promontory that invites awe.'
Ben has picked out some of his favourites, which we'll be sharing on the Country Life website over the next couple of weeks — and we're starting with Kynance Cove.
Kynance Cove
Of all these places, Kynance Cove is likely to need the least introduction. As the scenic highlight of the Lizard Peninsula — which really is saying something — it serves up a preposterously grand spread of pinnacles, cliffs, caves, sands and rugged sea stacks. In sunshine, with the white beach offset by the turquoise wash of the shallows, it’s like something from a fantasy.
Deservedly popular, the cove is managed by the National Trust and draws big crowds over the peak summer season.
The sagest advice is not only to time your visit with low tide, when the sands are at their most impressive, but to avoid the busiest tourist months if possible.
A hulking tidal outcrop, the cove’s centrepiece, is Asparagus Island, so-called because of the native wild asparagus that grows there. The interconnected caves that appear at low tide were named by Victorian visitors, resulting in the likes of The Parlour, The Drawing Room and The Ladies Bathing Pool.
Visiting Kynance Cove
Sign up for the Country Life Newsletter
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
The cove is on the west side of the Lizard, just around from Lizard Point itself (which is 2.5 miles via the coastal path).
It's managed by the National Trust — see nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall/kynance-cove — with the car park (£2-£10, or free for members).
Look familiar? Kynance Cove has been featured in TV shows including Poldark and House of the Dragon
'Hail, fairy-featured, beautiful Kynance! / A loving smile is ever on thy face, / And Beauty revels mid thy gold arcades.' — so wrote the poet John Harris in 1855, and it's still true today of the unspoilt Kynance Cove.
Kynance Cove is worth the trip even in winter, when what you lose in warmth you gain in drama
It's run by the National Trust — so naturally there's a tea shop.
Kynance Cove's Asparagus Island is as pretty as it is oddly named.
Ben Lerwill is a multi-award-winning travel writer based in Oxford. He has written for publications and websites including national newspapers, Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, and many more. His children's books include Wildlives (Nosy Crow, 2019) and Climate Rebels and Wild Cities (both Puffin, 2020).
-
'If I was a plant, I'd want to be seen at Chelsea': Country Life's Editor Mark Hedges on his favourite things from the 2025 Chelsea Flower Show
Country Life's Editor-in-Chief has been coming to the Chelsea Flower Show for years. Here are the things he's enjoyed most from the 2025 edition.
-
Country Life's entirely unofficial Chelsea Flower Show 2025 awards
The RHS's judges give out awards based on strict criteria rather than vibes — and while there's a place for the former, we think the latter is worthwhile too. With that in mind, Country Life's team at the Royal Hospital Chelsea have awarded their own alternative prizes from the 2025 RHS Chelsea Flower Show.
-
The thrillingly bleak Devon house that inspired The Hound of the Baskervilles is now part of a peaceful farmyard retreat
Fowlescombe Farm near Ivybridge, in Devon, is a ‘complete retreat from everyday life’ — and the rumoured inspiration for one of the best known and loved Sherlock Holmes stories.
-
Sir David Attenborough’s record-breaking Nature documentary reveals the devastating effects of bottom trawling on our oceans
Bottom trawling is a disaster for fish stocks, but it also releases previously stored carbon back into the atmosphere.
-
‘I only ever want to be there when the circus is in town’: Everything you need to know about Cannes ahead of the famous Film Festival
The annual Cannes Film Festival kicks off today — and it’s a hectic as it is glamorous. Chris Cotonou breaks down exactly how to do it, from where to stay and eat, to what to do
-
Tony Juniper: 'King Charles is the most influential environmentalist of all time'
Tony Juniper CBE, the head of Natural England, on saving the world, breeding budgies and the King's importance in raising awareness of the plight of Nature.
-
The ‘utterly unique’ skincare brand that’s used in the ‘world’s best hotel’ spa
The Seed to Skin brand was the byproduct of one woman’s length fertility journey — it’s so good that today it’s used in a hotel voted the ‘world’s best’.
-
Here Today, Gone Tomorrow: 'Nature’s ephemeral beauty reminds us of our own finite existence'
A withering rosebud, the brevity of blossom and the one-day wonder of the mayfly: Nature’s ephemeral beauty reminds us of our own finite existence, but melancholy transience also offers moments of magic.
-
'All the floral world wants to do is procreate': Why pollen is nothing to sneeze at
Pollen often hits the headlines for making us sneeze, but it plays a vital role in far more serious matters.
-
The world is your oyster and here is the pearl: How to spend £100,000 on a holiday
Big budget travel is on the rise. Here's why, and how to do it properly.