From underwear to outerwear: How cinema transformed the fortunes of the humble T-shirt

Amie Elizabeth White tells you how you can look like Marlon Brando. Sort of.

Amie Elizabeth White's avatar
By
published
in Features
Black and white photograph of Marlon Brando. He's wearing a white t-shirt, black leather belt with silver buckle and wool trousers
The decision to put Marlon Brando in a tight T-shirt wasn't just aesthetic — it highlighted his imposing physique.
(Image credit: Alamy)

When Marlon Brando donned a white T-shirt in A Streetcar Named Desire (1951), he transformed the conventional underwear (a vest) into casual outerwear. The real hero of this shift, however, was Thomas Hill, who had founded the company that became Sunspel almost a century before.

At his factory in Nottingham, he produced undergarments using the world’s finest materials, and adapted a traditional lace-making machine to create a lightweight, durable cotton that felt luxurious on the skin, using it to make short-sleeved undershirts. The new garment proved popular among manual workers who had resorted to cutting their long-johns into separates to keep them cool.

Image 1 of 3
Sunspel Classic T-shirt
(Image credit: Sunspel)

Today, 10 craftspeople and 12 production stages make the Sunspel Classic T-shirt. Extra-long staple Supima cotton sourced from a single farm in California, USA, is double-twisted and knitted into a specialised, open-knit jersey based on the original structure developed by Hill, before being cut and assembled by hand in the Long Eaton factory in Derbyshire where the company has operated since 1937.

Latest Videos From

Supple, with a silk-like softness, carefully balanced proportions allow it to sit close to the body yet retain its shape, whether tucked in or worn loose. The softly structured crew neck and neat-cut sleeve are universally flattering and versatile. ‘With its roots in underwear, the Classic T-shirt is designed to feel almost invisible,’ says Sunspel CEO Nick Brooke. Every garment carries the name of the artisan responsible for the final inspection. On its own or tucked beneath a suit, underwear as outerwear looks as good as it feels.

Sunspel's Classic T-shirts are available in 44 colours for £95.

Sunspel also manufacture T-shirts using rare Sea Island cotton. For more information, click here.

This feature originally appeared in the June 10, 2026, issue of Country Life. Click here for more information on how to subscribe

Amie Elizabeth White
Amie Elizabeth White

Amie Elizabeth White is Country Life's Acting Luxury Editor. She studied history at the University of Edinburgh and previously worked in fashion styling. She regularly writes for Country Life's London Life supplement and has written for Luxury London, covering everything from Chanel suits and skincare, to the best pies in the city. She has a big heart, but would sell her soul for a good pair of shoes.