How to stand out from the crowd in the most British of outfits — morning dress

If you close your eyes and think of a classic English gentleman, the chances are you’ll have pictured, if not James Bond, then a man in morning dress: the quintessential attire of the upper classes at weddings and events such as Royal Ascot. Consisting of a black tailcoat, waistcoat, dress shirt and tie, formal striped trousers and Oxfords, it’s one of those indelibly chic and dignified uniforms where, surely, you can’t go wrong.

Or can you?

Alas, there is such a thing as a morning dress faux pas: a single-breasted waistcoat; any shoe that isn’t black or shirt that isn’t white; trousers hanging low enough for a gap to emerge between the waistcoat and the waistband. Yet for more seasoned Ascot-eers and wedding go-ers, the fear is not to do with standing out, but with blending in. Although ‘as long as you know the rules, you can break them slightly,’ says Henry Conway, a writer and socialite who attended the first day of Royal Ascot on Tuesday.

More than that: you should.

Just as Picasso earned the right to produce derivative paintings after he showed he could master a more classical style, so can frequent purveyors of morning dress break with convention and give their uniform a flourish.

One should note that the Royal Ascot uniform adds one, vital element to morning dress: a top hat, made of silk or leather. The former is more dignified, while the latter is more pleasant in the hot weather. It’s up to you whether to choose style or comfort; just know that this is the one item that cannot be altered under any circumstance. Acceptable colours are black, grey and little else.

The rest of the outfit, however, can be given a light zhuzh. A number of men will add flair to their morning dress with a flower, wedged into the buttonhole of the lapel on their tailcoat — an option especially popular at weddings. Conway is a fan; although he also adds a brooch underneath. ‘I go for gold leaves — something simple in shape,’ he says, that looks like it’s ‘pinning’ the flower into shape. ‘It’s a statement… but it’s a small statement.’ Like all the best accessories, Conway’s tell a story. ‘I wear golden cufflinks,’ he explains, ‘that were melted down from a cigarette case that belonged to my grandmother.’

As is the case for many, Conway’s morning dress is a hand-me-down. ‘I always wear my father’s suit from 1979,’ he says, ‘along with a fancy version of a waistcoat.’ A nice way to stand out here is to opt for one that’s ‘silk and pale in colour’. ‘Whatever you do,’ Conway says, ‘don’t go for grey — grey is so dull.’ Those attending Ascot multiple times this week shouldn’t shy away from switching things up, day to day. ‘Change your tie and waistcoat, whatever the event,’ Conway advises.

Another item that affords morning dress a little liberty is trousers. ‘It is perfectly acceptable to switch these up,’ Conway notes. Although striped trousers are the classic choice, some will opt for a simpler, plainer grey — ‘or even a lighter grey trouser, as all former school prefects will be familiar with’. It’s those little flourishes, those little dashes of personality, that make morning dress ‘so perfectly English’.

The shape of the trousers, however, is not so open to compromise. James Fisher, Country Life’s Digital Deputy Editor, says that ‘trousers should be a very, very nice, straight leg; nothing too tight; with the bottom stopping right at the top of the shoe.’ Another pro tip to ensure you don’t stand out for any of the wrong reasons is to ensure your trousers sit ‘higher than you think they should around the waist’.

Jack Palmer, a manager in an advertising agency, is also a fan of accessorising his morning suit, but cautions that it has to be done right. Contrast collars, for instance, look fun on men over 50, ‘but anyone younger wearing one looks like they’re on an episode of The Apprentice’. Another potential point of contention is glasses, often necessary at a summery event like Royal Ascot. These should be black or tortoiseshell, Palmer suggests, and obvious brand names or bright colours should be avoided at all costs.

One accessory that often inspires the right kind of attention is a tie pin. This started out as a practical measure to secure a shirt to a tie and prevent the latter from flapping, but has evolved into more of a decorative fastener over the years. They are small, discrete and a great way to show off a bit of you: just make sure your tie is on the plainer side, as things can risk becoming noisy.

Palmer and I differ on the subject of shoes. He believes these should never vary from an Oxford brogue; I disagree. I’m rather fond of a loafer: black, well polished and preferably with a buckle, to give it some flair — though I’m sure Palmer would call it ‘some flash’. Regardless, I will be wearing these to the races on Saturday.

For James, the best place to personalise morning dress starts just before the shoe. ‘A fun pair of socks,’ he says, is the simplest way to stand out from the crowd: although people shouldn’t be able to notice them while you’re standing as that would suggest your trousers aren’t quite long enough.

The key with Ascot accessories is that most quintessentially English of values: discretion. A fun pair of cufflinks, like Conway’s, are a preferable addition to classic morning dress than, say, an eye-grabbing watch. Similarly, James cautions, a playful sock should not be about ‘stealing the show’, but rather about adding just a spec of interest.

Personality, in dashes.