Pioneering chef Raymond Blanc on never saying no and eating caviar for pudding
Lotte Brundle meets the French chef and restaurateur.
Raymond Blanc is finding being on holiday very strange. He has never had ‘more than 10 days holiday at any time.
‘You have to prepare yourself. I think preparation is the most important part of it, because it’s a big thing,’ he says in his heavy French accent.
Unlike most of us, he has hardly taken any time off since he opened his famous Oxfordshire restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel. It’s been a huge part of the self-trained chefs life every single day, which is why its recent closure for an 18-month refurbishment has been such a huge adjustment.
‘I’ve spent 41 years creating this extraordinary magic at a beautiful manor house, working five or six days a week, and the suddenly, you know — close,’ the 76-year-old says. He will be retiring from his role as chef-patron at Le Manoir, which held two Michelin stars for more than four decades, staying on in his new role of ‘lifetime ambassador and founder’.
Raymond in 1990 in the dining room of Le Manoir.
In 2005 in the hotel's vegetable garden.
‘At Le Manoir, we have trained more than 50 Michelin star chefs,’ he says. ‘I really prepared myself because I knew, emotionally, it would be difficult, but I made it,’ Raymond adds. ‘If you’re happy, and you can create something beautiful in your life then you’re a lucky person to start with. But then, if you’re able to hand it down to someone who’s going to make it even more beautiful through the years… I count myself as a lucky man.’
He has been spending time with his partner, Natalia Traxel, a doctor and nutritionist, at their flat in the South of France. Despite retiring from his chef role at Le Manoir, Raymond is still keeping busy. He has collaborated with the French bakery chain PAUL on two new limited-edition sandwiches. One contains roast beef with horseradish and celeriac remoulade. The other, creamy brie with caramelised onion chutney and sweet celery shavings. Both sound delicious and much better than the sad supermarket meal deal sandwiches that Raymond still can’t wrap his head around, despite living in the UK for many years now.
‘To be part of that French tradition and excellence… we did something very beautiful,’ he says. He has also been cooking at one-off events at Annabel’s, Royal Ascot and various other events. There is a mention of television work, and various other pursuits. ‘I think I have plenty to do,’ Raymond says, with a smile. ‘I am not very good at saying no, that’s the problem.’
Your aesthetic hero
As a chef, I must say that there are a number of chefs who have inspired me. Mauro Colagreco at Mirazur. I must say, I had an extraordinary experience there. But other chefs such as Andrew Wong, Heston Blumenthal, Luke Selby — and many more — have been very inspiring to me.
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
Heston Blumenthal in The Hinds Head in Bray, 2025.
The last thing of note that you bought for yourself
I have created, in my flat in the South of France, a huge cabinet of curiosities, eight metres wide. It had to be made three times because the Polish wood that was used is very difficult to paint on. Those poor guys worked for about two years on that. It’s still half empty, but I buy local art to put in it. I recently bought a piece by Antoine Pierini and another by Rene Lalique.
An exhibition that has really impressed you
The Rodin exhibition at the Tate Modern in 2021. I still remember the power of his sculptures, and it was so beautifully presented — the lighting was just perfect, and there was a beautiful story. His partner, Camille Claudel, was never really recognised. But she was as good of a sculptor as he was. I have two little sculptures by her.
But still the best for me would be Marc Chagall. I saw an exhibition of his at the National Museum in South of France in Nice, in 2025. I love his work because it’s so childlike and so dreamline. It puts you in another world.
Marc Chagall in 1990.
A possession you’d never sell
My sculptures by Juginder Lamba — I love his work — they live in my garden in London.
A book you’ve found inspiring
At the moment I am reading One Hundred Years of Solitude. It’s dreamlike and it will catch you through its fantasy, its imagery, through the hardship of life. It is always moving, showing new things. But I love many other books. I love Mikhail Bulgakov, he is one of my favourite writers. If you read Heart of a Dog, you will laugh. Also, Le Petit Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I would recommend every parent to buy it to read to their child before bedtime. I was also taken completely by Cooking in 10 Minutes by Edouard de Pomiane. His writing is so beautiful, so smart, so fun — he doesn’t take himself too seriously.
Your favourite painting
When I was about 12 — and I know this answer is classic, boring in terms of a lack of imagination — I fell in love with Van Gogh’s Sunflowers. I still regard it as the greatest masterpiece. It’s still my very favourite.
The music that you work to
It depends. I listen to African music, more modern music, sometimes music that is very quiet like Spiegel im Spiegel. But I love all the great classical music: Beethoven, Vivaldi, Debussy, Mozart. It’s about mood. Of course, I have a list of French music as well.
The last podcast you listened to
20 Questions With, by Matt Stadlen. He does all the big boys of politics, but some other interviews too. He has loved the work we’ve done at Le Manoir. I was interviewed by him just last week.
Who would play you in a film of your life
Dudley Moore was very similar facially, plus he was fun and didn't take himself too seriously.
What you’d take with you to a desert island
I would definitely take a fishing rod — I’m a good fisherman, so I think I would manage to survive just through my fishing. I would take my oldest kitchen knife, which is now so thin after fifty years of working with it, but that has an emotional significance. I would also take a couple of good books — maybe a whole library — including a book about survival skills.
The thing that gets you up in the morning
I just love life, and obviously though my work pattern is different, I still do. I love to walk, I love the cinema, I love to see art, I love to see friends. It’s easy to wake up. It’s easy. I am excited and I rarely have the blues.
The items you collect
Many different bits and pieces, and wine.
A hotel you could go back and back to
Locally, The Connaught, I think is the most amazing hotel. There is also a great chef there, Hélène Darroze. I also love the Cipriani [in Venice].
The Connaught hotel.
The most memorable meal you have ever had
As I mentioned before, Mirazou. That was really the best. Also Andrew Wong was an extraordinary experience. He had made a dessert that was mindblowing: extra virgin olive oil, a sorbet of fresh coconut and dessicated coconut and on the top, caviar. It sounds weird to start with, but my God, that was a genius dish. One of the best dishes of my life.
The best present you’ve ever received
A 1812 Napoleon Cognac, never opened and in the original bottle. My partner Natalia gifted it to me, she had searched for months through French cellars. Every night, after service, I would taste this extraordinary cognac, a tiny amount so it could last forever. The layering of aromatics was amazing. Then I would leave the glass unwashed to discover in the morning further hidden scents that the oxidation would reveal. It was the most appreciated present that I have ever had.
For more information on Raymond’ Blanc’s collaboration with PAUL, click here.
Lotte joined Country Life in 2025. She was previously a sub-editor on the news and foreign news desks at The Times and The Sunday Times as a graduate trainee. Before that she was The Fence's editorial assistant. She has written for The Times, New Statesman, Metro, The Fence and Dispatch magazine. She coordinates Country Life Online's weekly interview series, Consuming Passions, and writes London Life's monthly column Shop of the Month for the print magazine.