The return of one of Europe's most iconic hotels is just the beginning for Bucharest
The Corinthia Bucharest, formerly the Grand Hotel du Boulevard, has reopened its doors. It shows that 'Little Paris' is ready to live up to its name.
Bucharest is an ugly city until it isn’t. The last 150 years have not been kind; from the Ottomans, to the Nazis, to the Soviet Union, the city and its people have suffered and, for a long time on the drive from the airport to its centre, that scarring is reflected in the buildings that line the streets. Grey, concrete, forlorn and forgotten.
But then it changes. The Soviet cement falls away, and a melange of medieval, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and neo-Classical elegance emerges from this chrysalis of oppression that has been surrounding Romania’s capital for generations. So much history has happened here and so much remains, and it is delightful. It is not obvious why they call it ‘Little Paris’, until it is.
All roads into Bucharest seem to lead to the Grand Hotel du Boulevard. Indeed, it is older than most of the roads, opening its doors in 1873 and drawing urban life to it. It was the first building in the city to have electricity, running water and a lift, and has long been the centre of culture here, receiving dignitaries such as Queen Victoria, Franz Josef and Constantin Brâncuși. Like many of the grand dames of Europe, she has seen and survived it all, ever present in a shifting political and socioeconomic landscape of this unshackled Eastern European democracy. For 10 years she lay silent, as she was redeveloped and restored by Corinthia Hotels and NIRO Investment Group, and reopened in March as a 30-suite triumph that is not only designed to be the very height of luxury, but a planted flag in the Romanian consciousness, one that says: ‘Anything you can do, we can do too.'
On the surface, the evidence is compelling. Here is a building that wouldn’t look out of place in Paris, Vienna or Monaco. The neo-Classical façade is iridescent, and the interiors rival anything you will see in New York, Milan or London, with shades of cream and gold, mixed with the hotel’s in house scent Elysee, dragging the senses to a world of Art Nouveau comfort that follows you wherever you go.
But the proof can be found in the staff, many of whom left Romania to work in high-end hospitality around the world, but have returned to elevate what they believe is the country’s first real effort in high-end luxury. It’s one thing being served dinner or drinks by someone being paid, and quite another by someone who walked out of a Four Seasons elsewhere to show you just how good life in Bucharest can be if you put your mind to it.
It’s a big swing from Corinthia and NIRO. Is Bucharest, so long in the minds of the English, just another eastern European city ripe for a stag weekend, ready to relaunch itself as one of Europe’s premier destinations? Let loose from the grip of barbarism, it is certainly trying its very hardest, and the Corinthia Grand Hotel du Boulevard is ready to shoulder the weight.
The rooms
In a word — vast. As mentioned, the hotel is nothing but suites, 30 of them, and while I didn’t see every one, the ones I did were all spacious as to be absurd. The bathrooms are a symphony of marble. Plush cream and the softest fabrics everywhere. A bed that could be used as a basketball court and springy enough to make slam dunks a cinch. Just the right amount of gold so as to be fancy without being ostentatious.
Floral hints and accents are almost everywhere, a nod to the Romanian poet Mihai Eminescu, and make a nice contrast to the urban environment in which you are staying. Thankfully, the good people at Corinthia have found just the right balance between technology and tradition. I liked that the curtains open and close at the touch of a button. I loved that traditional light switches haven’t been removed for one of those infuriating multi-control screens.
Eating and drinking
The making of any decent hotel, especially one with aspirations as grand as this one, is having a good bar. Thankfully, the Grand Hotel has two. The Heritage Bar has a tremendous selection of signature cocktails and spirits, with an atmosphere as elegant as a European classic and none of the snootiness. The room is split beautifully into a central space interspersed with quiet little alcoves, perfect for whispered conversations, business dealings, and hushed affairs.
Sass’ Restaurant and Lounge is more for the party people, drawing inspiration from the eponymous Monaco brand and bedecked in chinoiserie panels, leopard print and lots and lots of red. If the Heritage bar is largo, this is all out allegro. When I visited, the movers and the shakers of Bucharest were pouring in and out, ready to start whatever parties they had planned for the later hours.
Fine dining can be found in Boulevard 73, which is helmed by Portuguese chef Pedro Mendes and is served in the domed ballroom that occupies the heart of the hotel. Formerly the courtyard, it is now the home of a superb menu of Portuguese, French and Romanian fusion. Don’t miss out on the caviar and Champagne.
Can I watch any polo matches while I’m there?
What a strange question, but the answer is yes. As mentioned, Romania is very much making an effort to move on from ‘stag do and cheap beer’ and elevate itself to a serious European player. The Singureni Manor Cup, Romania’s first polo tournament, is another example.
Players compete in this year's Singureni Manor Polo Cup.
Hosted at the equestrian woodland retreat of Singureni Manor, the polo is the arena kind (although grass grounds are very much under construction), and the tournament takes place in September. For those who just like horses, or the wilderness, or luxury, Singureni Manor is open year round and is well worth the hour journey out of Bucharest to go and visit.
What else to do while you're here
The main façade of the Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest.
For those who love history, the city is basically alive with former Soviet influence. It is home to the world’s heaviest building, the Palace of the Parliament, which was begun by former dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu and finished after his execution in the revolution of 1989. It is fantastically enormous, and the interiors are completely absurd. It is well worth a guided tour, although most of the (again, vast) building is unused.
Bucharest itself is like any up and coming European capital. The coffee scene is sensational, there are lots of good bars and restaurants, serving great beers and food (from the traditional Romanian to more modern European fare) and everyone is fantastically friendly. The Old Town is still a bit seedy, and should be avoided in the nighttime, but the Grand Hotel’s location on Calea Victoriei is in exactly the spot you want to be, and everything you want to visit is well within walking distance.
Who’s it for?
Couples who are a bit bored of the traditional ‘Paris, Venice, Florence, Barcelona’ city break. Be the most interesting person at a dinner party by saying you’ve been to Bucharest. I guarantee nobody else has been. And for the level of luxury you’re getting, you’ll be paying a lot less than those other cities too.
What gives it the 'wow' factor?
The service at the hotel is just exquisite and that’s because everyone who works there has a deep sense of pride about what the Grand Hotel is, and what it means.
What I would change
While the hotel wouldn’t look out of place in Paris, Milan or New York, I think it probably should. A splash more Romanian flair, especially in the rooms, would be great.
Prices at the Corinthia Grand Hotel du Boulevard in Bucharest begin at €450 per night.
