Hôtel du Couvent: This former convent on the French Riviera has rekindled the rules of luxury

Luxury follows you wherever you go in the French Riviera. Mansions and châteaux occupy prime spots on the hills, placed to gaze out over the sparkling Mediterranean and the priceless yachts that cruise lazily up and down the coast. In between, the towns and villages of this idyllic part of Europe present themselves as traditionally as they can; the illusion only broken by signs that read CHANEL, Dior, Hermes and more.

But what is luxury, really?

For many people, it’s a logo, a number at the bottom of a receipt, the latest technology, an overcomplicated menu of froths and deconstruction. For the Hôtel du Couvent, a Luxury Collection hotel, it is none of these things. At this 88-room former convent tucked into a hillside overlooking Nice’s old town, luxury is guided by two defining principles — decadence and joy.

Originally built by the Order of Saint Claire in the early 17th century, the four buildings that make up this hillside sanctuary have been sensitively restored and refurbished under the watchful eye of Valéry Grégo and Perseus Properties. It’s hard to imagine that, apart from the lights, the lift and a few plugs, much has changed. The central courtyard, dressed in a sympathetic palette of earthy yellow and cream, is shaded by orange trees and, on first glance, feels curiously austere. So too the corridors, where well-trodden flagstone floors have largely been left as is, and where, behind heavy wooden doors, you will find the rooms. It’s a space that demands quiet reflection and contemplation; it elicits respect, not only for what came before, but for what a holiday really is, which is to be at rest.

Hôtel du Couvent understands luxury by engaging the senses. Touch the rough walls, smell the gardens, the bakery, the herbalist. Your eyes will absorb a story from the antiques and oddities associated with property’s past life. You can hear the breeze blowing in from the ocean and the gulls gently swinging overhead. In the rooms, it’s emphasised by vast antique rainfall shower heads in the bathroom, controlled by thick taps, where the water feels heavy. It’s a double bed covered with hefty linen, dramatic shutters that swing over the windows, a well-stocked minibar and a terrace with dramatic views over Nice and the Riviera beyond.

To relax, wind your way up the hillside, through terraces of herbs, flowers and fresh produce to a swimming pool that seems to stretch over the entire city. Or wind your way down into the unpretentious spa, where baths hidden in the catacombs will try and cure every ache and pain, mental or physical. And then find joy in the food, all of which is drawn from the hotel’s gardens or nearby farm. Freshly baked croissants in the morning, served with eggs from the in-house hen team. A towering pan bagnat for lunch. Dinner in either Le Restaurant du Couvent, serving a delightful formal Savoyard menu, or the more laid-back and local Le Bistrot des Serruriers. Simplicity is the key to all three — the only ‘story’ that the chefs will try to tell you with their food is that it is rustic, delicious, and that you should leave feeling full. Every crunch, slurp and bite is a reminder of the power of organic local ingredients, and that flavour should be big and bold.

Hôtel du Couvent is everything that luxury should be: decadent, joyful, and unfussy. A holy trinity. Who needs a Hermès handbag or a superyacht when you can have thick chunks of the best bread you’ve ever eaten, served with salty butter and a glass of rosé, under the Mediterranean sun. Centuries ago, the nuns of Nice found peace and completion within these walls. You can still find it there now.

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Rooms at Hôtel du Couvent cost from €330 per night (about £300). For more information and to book, visit the hotel du Couvent website.