Sacred temples, world-class surf and emerald-green rice terraces — everything you need to know about Bali

The most visited of the Indonesian islands and with accessibility easier than ever as a result, Bali remains a popular destination for UK travellers thanks to its balance of unique culture and luxury hospitality.

On one hand there are the ubiquitous temples, healing rituals, skilled artists and enduring cultural traditions (many rooted in Balinese Hinduism, a religion unique to the island that around 90% of its inhabitants follow); on the other there are cosmopolitan and sumptuous hotels, surf schools, and sandy beaches.

Bali seems to have it all, a treasure trove of sustenance — both spiritual and physical — for the hungry traveller.

The downside is the inevitable crowds at all the major sites. If you can’t face these, a good alternative is a bespoke tour (arranged on request by several of the major hotels, including those listed below) to local spots that the average tourist cannot access.

Lay of the land

Bali has several distinct regions, each offering a different style of trip:

• Ubud Best for temples, rice terraces, yoga, art and traditional Balinese culture. Beware, the traffic can be surprisingly heavy in the town centre
• Seminyak Best for upscale restaurants, boutique shopping, beach clubs and stylish resorts. Beware, beaches are better for sunsets than swimming and congestion is common
• Canggu Best for surfing, cafés and co-working spaces. Beware, Canggu has some of the worst traffic on the island; beaches are generally dark volcanic sand rather than white sand and it can feel crowded
• Uluwatu Best for surfing, dramatic landscapes and sunsets. Beware, there's limited shopping and casual dining; many beaches require climbing steep staircases; swimming conditions can be rough.
• Nusa Dua Best for family-friendly resorts. Beware, Nusa Dua can feel isolated from local culture
• Amed & Tulamben Best for snorkelling and a quieter pace of travel. Beware, accommodation is simpler

What to do

Artisan villages

The region south-east of Ubud is home to contiguous villages that are home to communities of wood-carvers (Mas), stone-carvers (Batubalan), silversmiths (Celuk) and batik makers (Supratman) — where you can see artists at work and learn about their craft.

In Mas, for example, the 2,000-odd villagers are all somehow involved in carving, sanding or polishing wood, with children beginning training around the age of six. Work is of very high quality, and bargaining is de rigueur.

Jatiluwih

This UNESCO-listed region has been growing rice since the 11th Century, using the ancient subak irrigation system, whereby an appointed water chief for each area ensures that every farm receives water – diverted by stones and distributed through bamboo pipes.

You can see the subak system in action by taking one of the hiking trails that have been opened through 8,000 acres of brilliant, shimmering green rice paddies, dotted with shrines and temples, where ceremonies of thanks are regularly made to Dewi Sri, the rice goddess.

Temples

Every home in Bali has its own temple and daily rituals, and every village has at least two temples. Some, such as Batuan Temple with its bas-relief sandstone carvings, are justly famed — perhaps none more so than the spectacular Lempuyang Temple in the east, one of a complex of seven temples.

Most people stop at the first of these, Pura Penataran Agung, notable for its towering Heaven’s Gate and triple, Naga-guarded, stairways leading to the middle sanctum.

Worshippers carrying their sacrificial offerings battle resignedly past tourists posing for selfies on the steep steps, but a serious uphill hike will reward you with Lampuyang itself, quieter, and close to 4,000 feet above the sea.

Surfing

Bali is a world-renowned surf destination with multiple famous breaks. Beginner's should start at Kuta Beach. It's the island's original surf spot, full of surf schools and party-goers which means that it can get a bit hectic — but its gentle breaks make it an obvious starting point. Intermediate surfers should make for Impossibles, Racetracks and Medewi — all long, left-hand waves.

Experts have their pick of the pack, from Padang Padang, sometimes referred to as the Balinese Pipline (inspired by Pipeline in Hawaii, generally considered to be one of the best waves in the world), to Bombie in Uluwatu, a proper big wave surfing experience. Competent surfers might prefer to travel in the off-season when there's more swell.

Where to stay

Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay

The stress of any long flight evaporates as soon as you set foot in this heavenly resort — to be met, perhaps, with a fire blessing conducted by the resident priest. Set above the waters of the Indian Ocean in the country’s south, 83 gardeners tend this 35-acre, tiered property which a fleet of buggies help you to negotiate.

Within, traditional villas of volcanic stone and thatch are dotted, like a Balinese village, amid palm and frangipani trees, livid bougainvillaea and hibiscus. The Ocean Front villas are divine — restful in teak and natural fabrics, with large open decks, generous pools, and covered outdoor seating — and cleverly arranged to ensure total privacy.

There are four restaurants to choose from, all delicious — from breakfasts packed with both Asian and Western choices, and a to-die-for bakery, to the freshest local fish and cosy Indonesian restaurant. There’s also a private strip of sandy beach, a new spa — which offers a huge range of pampering treatments and — and classes in everything from wood-carving to martial arts.

Nirjhara, Tabanan

Reached via a tunnel of bamboo, this small, 25-room boutique hotel opened in 2020 in a remote spot in western Bali, amid rice paddies and exotic vegetation, home to white cockatoos. Named after the waterfall it overlooks, it’s within easy reach of the ocean and Hindu temple of Tanah Lot. It’s decidedly modern, from the contemporary wooden sculptures to the watery cascade that tumbles down several levels into the saltwater swimming pool.

Overlooking the cascade feature, inside a wooden pavilion, you’ll find the hotel’s bar and restaurant, which serves up a mixture of Balinese, Vietnamese and Italian dishes. Rooms come clad in wood, stone and rattan. Some have swimming pools, others walled gardens and a few private decking above the riverbed.

Make sure to explore the surrounding villages by bicycle before retreating back to the hotel’s spa, impressive library, small cinema room or bamboo yoga shala.

Four Seasons at Sayan

Set amid the verdant jungle scenery of central Bali, above the rushing Ayung River, this sweeping structure of curves and open walls that you descend into brings to mind a spaceship.

The inspiration, however, comes from the rice paddies that adjoin the property: entered via a long suspended walkway, the building represents a rice bowl and spoon, its four levels denote the four mandalas.

The natural landscape dictates the layout of the property with the rooms — 60 suites and villas — built into the hills and rice growing in small paddies between them. Glass-fronted Duplex suites, in the main building, sprawl across two floors and are decorated with a finely-tuned balance of clean lines and traditional Balinese materials; many come with private pools.

Inside the riverfront villas, there is total privacy; their interiors a textural interplay of wood, leather, stone and mother-of-pearl. Outside them, guests have their own deck, pool and seating area.

For those without a pool, it’s a short walk (or buggy ride) down to the river, where there are two pools and — crucially — a restaurant offering an excellent cocktail menu. We love the Pandan-colada, and, if you’re a fan of the local green herb, look out for the pandan-cream filled croissants at breakfast too.

Second to the pandan-themed offerings is the newly refurbished spa — reason enough to put this hotel on your list. There are seven treatment villas, each with its own bamboo lined garden-cum-changing room. You could enjoy a brilliant, but bog standard massage, but we’d suggest going for one of the considered and curated services unique to Sayan such as ‘Tirta Ening’, a 2.5 hour ‘ritual’ (for two, if you wish) that involves a steam in crystal-energised vapour, full body scrub, a head-to-toe massage on a waterbed and sound healing.

Raffles Bali

Raffles Bali is less than a 30 minute drive from Bali’s international airport — a boon in a country known for its endless traffic. Despite its proximity, you’re still immersed in Bali’s culture thanks to a greeting from Rindik musicians playing bamboo instruments, and a traditional welcoming ceremony.

Taking up nearly 50 acres of sacred ‘loloan’ land (where the river meets the sea), the area used to be a fishing village, but now comprises 32 villas, all with their own pools and most with views over the water.

Despite the luxury accommodation, nature is still prioritised: a botanical tour will highlight giant palms in impeccable health, an orchard of trees planted for couples married at the hotel, endless local herbs and flowers, and blue kingfishers and bright yellow black-naped oriole birds. In one year alone, the hotel incubated and hatched 400 turtles which were then released on their private beach (saving them from being eaten by local monitor lizards).

If food peaks your interest more than flora and fauna, you’re in luck. A blend of traditional fare (like chicken porridge, peanut omelettes and rendang beef curry) fill the menus, alongside top-notch burgers and pizzas. And, being Raffles, there is a local take on the renowned Singapore Sling cocktail in the Writer’s Bar.

Amandari

The second-ever Aman hotel to be built, Amandari is more than 30 years old, but, from the outside, built to resemble a Balinese village, looks even older. There are temples hidden around corners of the maze-like walls and rattan torches lighting the walkways.

Inside, the 30 villas are crisp and glossy, all polished wood and luxurious Aman amenities. It’s the small things that matter and we loved the guava sorbet, delivered to us while we sat by the pool, and the freshest pineapple juice you’ll ever taste on tap.

There’s a single restaurant and stunning pool (with views over a fulsome green valley and — if you squint — one of the Insta-famous swings), but neither get very busy because guests are encouraged to get out and immerse themselves in the local area, go on a guided hike through the rice fields, take an art tour or visit a temple — all organised by the hotel. Coffee lovers can even opt for a trip to the nearby home of Kopi luwak, a blend made with the help of a civet — a mongoose-like mammal — using coffee cherries, partly digested and harvested from their… litter trays.

There’s also an art gallery in the hotel, as well as a dance school for local children who perform twice a week — it’s adorable, and mesmerising.

Capella Ubud

Ubud is well regarded as the cultural and creative heart of Bali, with galleries and temples nestled plentifully in the lush landscape. Capella, set a good distance from the main strip of shops, feels wonderfully detached from this busyness.

The fully tented property is surrounded by forest and the architecture — from the rooms to the gym — is based on the structures built in the 1800s by merchants and traders.

There are no buggies with which to navigate the jungle, so be prepared to ‘hike’ to your suite (there are 23 — some are a few hundred steps down, and back up, from reception). Walking sticks and a ‘survival kit’ (a hessian backpack with bug spray, plasters and water) are handed out as standard.

However, the effort is worth it. Book the Bird Watching suite, set on a steep valley edge. It has a generously-sized private pool — the best possible spot for an early morning stock take of the tropical birds.

Back at the main ‘camp’ you’ll find the bar, where you’re invited to enjoy a pre-dinner drink and canapés every evening, a snooker table, board games, the gym, treatment rooms and two restaurants.

Supper at Api Jawa is a must: the multi-course, Omasake-style menu, almost all cooked over fire, is some of the best food you’ll find in the area. Think fire-smoked Chawanmushi — a savoury set custard — with asparagus and bacon (don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it), and chicken wings glazed in house honey.

The best place to digest the next day is poolside — a cleverly positioned suntrap among the trees, featuring even cleverer loungers that have holes for your face! So you can read your book while tanning your back! Alternatively, for a taste of culture you can book in for the ‘Soul reborn ritual’, a take on a traditional Balinese Hindu ceremony that involves giving offerings to the gods and a sort-of baptism in the on-site temple fountain. A warning that this involves a trek even deeper into the jungle (and back up).

Where to eat

Indigo, Canggu

French-owned Indigo actually serves up world-class Japanese food which, pre-pandemic you had to book weeks in advance. Look out for raririties such as uni (sea urchin) New Style sashimi of salmon and tuna belly sushi, served with fried lotus root and truffle salt. If you’re struggling to choose it’s worth plumping for the generous set lunch menu — a little bit of everything for just £15.

Bali Asli, Amlapura Province

Bali Asli means ‘authentic Bali’ and this gorgeous restaurant in remote eastern Bali more than lives up to its name — huddled in amongst the rice paddies and farms, from which much of its produce is sourced.

The menu is hand-written on a lontar, a type of palm leaf also used for religious text manuscripts, and features six dishes that change daily. Think fern tips with jackfruit, red beans and coconut, tilapia in banana leaf with coconut curd, and grilled chicken with shallots, chilli and coconut oil.

Open for lunch and afternoon tea.

Mama San, Seminyak

A popular and relaxed brasserie-style restaurant which turns out a medley of cuisines, predominantly inspired by Asian street food (snapper curry and crispy pork hock with tamariloo). The setting is cool too, industrial meets Mao’s parlour, with plenty of dark wood, bare brick and vintage photography. A vast painting of a Viatnamese woman dominates the space.