If you get a chance to buy the huge black version of the field mushroom, do. Sliced and fried in butter for a few minutes, it makes the perfect all-purpose meal. For breakfast, have it with crisp, smoked streaky bacon and scrambled egg with toast or fried bread (a secret love of mine). For lunch or supper, add garlic to the butter and cream or white wine to the juices and eat on toast made from pain de campagne or sourdough with a sprinkling of parsley.

Fried black mushrooms are a great accompaniment to a pork chop (add grainy mustard and cream to the juices) or slices of rare roast beef (a touch of horseradish or mustard mixed into the juices is good). Or just heap them on buttered toast.