This recipe comes, with my modifications, from Simon Hopkinson’s new book Week In Week Out (Quadrille £20). Although it’s intended for these deliciously meaty mushrooms, I reckon other wild or even tame mushrooms would work.

2?3 porcini depending on size

5 small waxy potatoes such as Pink Fir Apple or La Ratte, cooked and sliced finely

2tbsp olive oil and walnut butter

4 cloves of garlic, chopped

Handful of chopped parsley

Salt, pepper and lemon juice

Heat the oil in a large, non-stick pan. Throw in the porcini and the potatoes, season them and toss them around with a wooden spoon for several minutes until they’re golden. Add the garlic and butter, then continue tossing until the butter froths and the garlic starts to cook. Finally, add a squeeze of lemon juice and serve piping hot. It’s the work of a few minutes. Delicious on its own and good, too, with pork chops or a rare grilled steak.