Is it worth queueing around the street for a pocket watch? The answer, of course, is yes
Amie Elizabeth White and Rosie Paterson reveal the very new trend for a very old accessory.
The recent collaboration between watchmakers Audemars Piguet (AP) and Swatch was always going to cause a stir, although the levels to which people went to get their hands on one was still surprising. (Swatch had to close stores in cities across the UK, after huge queues formed outside them, 'in light of safety considerations for both our customers and our staff'.)
The eight-piece collection merges the avant‑garde design of Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak and the modular ingenuity of Swatch's vibrant POP line from the 1980s.
And what were they after? A Royal Pop pocket watch, priced from £335. The cleverly-designed and colourful, eight-piece collection, inspired by the legendary AP Royal Oak, taps into a burgeoning market. In recent years, heritage and contemporary brands have rushed to release pocket watches — perhaps inspired by Peaky Blinders? — that range from the affordable to one-off masterpieces.
Some watchmakers utilise the style to mark significant anniversaries, honouring their history with a timepiece that was integral to it. For others it is a tool with which to showcase their design prowess and technical expertise, a recent example being the Hermès Pocket Roaaaaar! which features a lion’s head crafted from wood marquetry (about £160,000). It is one of several pocket models that Hermès has introduced since 2012.
AP's 150 Heritage pocket watch boasts meticulous hand-engraving, grand feu enamelling and a platinum chain.
Many have collectors in mind, but signs of demand are clear at the accessible end of the market. When British watchmakers Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g collaborated on a pocket watch last year, the 100-piece collection sold out in 15 minutes (£2,995), and The Camden Watch Company cites years of customer requests behind its new launch (£170).
Historical appeal and modern sensibilities underpin the pocket watch's revival. A myriad designs are transformable and can be taken from pocket to pendant via a chain (The Camden Watch Company includes one for free when you pre-order). Some come with a stand so that you can use it as a sort of desk or bedside table clock at home. AP and Swatch's Royal Pop has a calfskin lanyard so that you can wear it around your neck or wrist, or as a bag charm.
Where convenience is concerned, reaching for a pocket watch is no more strenuous than reaching for a mobile phone — but it's far more dignified.
