Dumbleton Hall hotel review: Rejuvenated grandeur in Jilly Cooper country
This refreshed Cotswolds manor house makes for an elegant stay not far from London.
Cricket is being played leisurely on a nearby field while wild deer and sheep strut around with carefree abandon. All Dumbleton Hall needs is a scantily-clad MP embroiled in a TV-franchise war to make it a location right out of Dame Jilly Cooper’s Rivals.
Set within a 16-acre estate of ancient cedar trees in the North Cotswolds, this refurbished country house hotel is a star in the making. Dumbleton closed in December 2023 and re-opened this year after a two-year refurbishment. The interiors of the Grade II-listed building have been reimagined with all the glamour of the roaring 1920s: think leopard-print rugs, tasselled lamps and plush velvet armchairs in-front of crackling fireplaces.
Originally built in 1830, Dumbleton was the home of the Women’s Land Army during the Second World War. It has previously been visited by the likes of Charles Dickens, Elizabeth Gaskell, the Mitford sisters and Charles Darwin, and has an innate elegance that extends far beyond its recent rejuvenation.
The rooms
One of 34 individually designed suites, our room was originally two bedrooms, which the owner and his partner — who is an interior designer — had decided would be better as one. Because of this, it was enormous, with sweeping views out to the grounds and woodland beyond from our bay window.
The epitome of old-school elegance, our room was decorated with William Morris prints, stylish antique furniture and autumnal shades.
A chocolate brown four-poster bed was the most eye-catching feature, although the nearby freestanding bathtub did give it a run for its money.
Decorated in shades of deep green, soft brown and classy teal, it was the perfect place to unwind — with a complimentary glass of Chablis in hand.
Eating and drinking
Executive chef Dean Westcar certainly knows what he’s doing. The gluten-free lemon drizzle cake in our room was a thoughtful touch and just the start of a stay packed with delicious food. The royal blue dining room of the hotel’s restaurant, Cedar 1905, was a sophisticated setting for dinner. The service at the restaurant, which celebrates modern British cooking with locally sourced ingredients, was exceptional — and that’s before you even get to the food itself.
There were plenty of tasty-sounding options to choose from, but I opted for Isle of Wight tomatoes with basil, balsamic and ricotta as my starter. My dinner partner tucked into Cornish crab on top of a crumpet, garnished with cucumber and watercress. For our mains, I enjoyed more Cornish seafood, still reeling from my crab envy. Cod with charred leeks, sea vegetables and smoked pike roe was delicious, and the way my dining partner greedily tucked into his main – South West lamb with courgette, red pepper and basil — indicated that his was too.
The showstopper, however, was pudding: a summery take on an Eton mess with elderflower jelly, fresh slices of nectarine and a scoop of strawberry sorbet. I’d go back to Dumbleton for that alone, and to sample the fine-dining tasting menu in the hotel's Orangerie, which will be opening soon.
How they’ll keep you busy
Long walks through the countryside along the Winchcombe Way followed by cocktails next to the fire.
What else to do while you’re there
Visit the nearby lavender field and — if you’re a Jeremy Clarkson fan — tour Hawkstone Brewery. If you are staying longer, why not take a day trip to nearby Stratford-upon-Avon and brush up on your Shakespeare?
Who it’s for
City workers looking for a relaxing weekend close to home. And, because this is the Cotswolds, Americans inevitably.
What gives it the ‘wow’ factor?
The grounds, complete with scenic lake views, wild sheep and deer and woodland right on the doorstep.
The one thing we’d change
There were a few teething issues during our stay, but I put this down to Dumbleton’s recent reopening and relatively new staff.
The one thing I could not abide, however, was the lack of a phone in our room. Ordering room service over WhatsApp is not particularly dignified. I suggest a phone in each room. Maybe even two. And preferably rotary models.
Rooms at Dumbleton Hall start from £311. Visit their website for more information and to book.
