From Wilde to Woolf, the great and the good have all stayed at Hotel Café Royale
Bella Fulford checks in to London's most central hotel.
There are few addresses in London more exposed to the city’s relentless pace than Hotel Café Royal in Piccadilly. Outside, tourists mill underneath flashing billboards. Inside, however, the caramel-hued marble walls of the original entranceway off Regent Street give the space a calm, decadent quality, totally removed from the urgency of the world beyond.
This tone continues seamlessly into the main lobby, designed by Piero Lissoni, with its double-height ceilings, dramatic chandelier and restrained palette punctuated by bold floral arrangements.
The building itself has lived many lives. Most famously, it was home to the Café Royal, which opened in 1865 when Daniel Nicols transformed a former oilcloth warehouse into something altogether more glamorous. London society’s answer to a Parisian salon, Café Royal became one of the capital’s great meeting places. Oscar Wilde dined here, Sir Winston Churchill entertained here, David Bowie celebrated here and figures as varied as Virginia Woolf and Muhammad Ali passed through its doors.
When the property reopened as a hotel in 2012 — after a renovation overseen by Sir David Chipperfield — the neighbouring buildings were absorbed into the development, expanding its footprint into the sweeping site it occupies today. Part contemporary luxury hotel, part custodian of a remarkable history, it balances old-world grandeur with modern expectations.
The rooms
The writer stayed in the Grand Regent Suite, pictured here and below.
My room followed the familiar neutral palette: tranquil and understated. Although, one element that was by no means understated was the freestanding marble bath.
I have a deep appreciation for a bath, and this marble masterpiece did not disappoint. Few things rival a piping-hot soak, a glass of Laurent-Perrier Champagne in hand, and the pleasure of feeding oneself grapes like a Roman empress. It is the kind of bath in which one could happily lose all sense of time. I very nearly did, forgetting for a moment that I was not, in fact, Roman nobility, but a Country Life employee rapidly running late for a drinks reservation.
The rooms broadly follow two design styles: Portland and Mansard. The former mimics the Portland stone of Regent Street, the latter favours fumed oak panelling. The signature suites, however, are the jewels in the hotel's crown, each with a distinct character — my favourite being the Dome Suite.
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
As its name might suggest, this suite sits beneath a vast domed ceiling, which, I am told, can transform into a star-filled night sky at the flick of a switch. Beneath it lies every conceivable comfort: an enormous bed, a double-sized bath, a colossal television and sound system, not to mention expansive terraces offering spectacular views across London. It is a room overflowing with sex appeal, equally suited to a romantic hideaway or a raucous party.
Eating and drinking
The Café Royal Grill follows the 1865 grill-room format.
Guests at Hotel Café Royal are spoiled for choice when it comes to eating and drinking.
There's Alex Dilling which serves refined French cuisine in an intimate setting, and Café Royal Grill which offers classic British dishes and afternoon tea. While dining here beneath gilded ceilings, a pianist tinkling in the background as we sipped wine and polished off the last of our sticky toffee pudding, we felt as though we had stepped back into an era as golden as the room itself.
Other options include Cakes & Bubbles by Albert Adrià and The Gallery, for an informal breakfast.
The Green Bar was our watering hole of choice — moody and atmospheric, its name and colour scheme nod to former patron Oscar Wilde and his fondness for absinthe. It’s not the only bar to reference a former patron: Ziggy’s Bar was inspired by David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust farewell party.
How they’ll keep you busy
The Akasha spa is a destination in itself, spanning three floors and more than 1,200 square metres. Expect a full menu of treatments, alongside a pool, jacuzzi, sauna and steam room.
And then there’s the location. Right in the heart of the West End, the city is at your disposal: the energy of Soho, the elegance of Mayfair, and London’s best-known landmarks, theatres, restaurants and bars are all within easy reach. Deluxe Suite guests can even explore in style with a chauffeur service available for up to five hours a day, as well as a house car for local drop-offs.
Who it’s for
Hotel Café Royal positions itself as a modern grand hotel — one that genuinely tries to be all things to all people. The result is a broad, international mix of guests with an atmosphere and clientele that shifts with the seasons. Put simply, a businessman could feel as comfortable here as a family enjoying a holiday or a couple on a romantic city break.
What gives it the wow factor?
It’s the personal touches and precision that set it apart. From Champagne, fruit, chocolates and a welcome message on the mirror on arrival, to monogrammed pillowcases — every detail felt carefully considered.
Triple-glazed windows shut out the city entirely, while the turndown service included a soft mat beside the bed so your feet never met the floor — my own cold, harsh bedroom floorboards have felt jarring ever since.
Add to that the fact that the hotel welcomes dogs, and it's hard to find fault.
The one thing we’d change
If there's one question mark, it's whether the hotel tries to be too many things to too many people, both in its aesthetic and offering. With so many styles and identities woven together, its sense of cohesion occasionally feels diluted.
Rooms at Hotel Café Royal start from £600 a night; the Grand Regent Suite starts from £3,165. Visit the hotel's website for more information and to book.
Bella Fulford is Country Life’s Editorial Assistant. She began her career in London’s property industry before moving to Australia, where she worked at a travel agency and magazine publisher. A History of Art graduate from the University of Leeds, she has an enduring love of art, architecture, travel and dogs — making Country Life a natural home.