Under the arches of the Grand Palais, Hermès proves it's the master of leather
Photographs by Christope Taniere; videos by Louis Sheridan.
We are officially in one of two in-between seasons—characterised by temperamental weather that calls for what the fashion industry terms ‘transitional outerwear.’
Also known as a trench coat.
The British, and more specifically Thomas Burberry and John Emary (of Aquascutum), invented the military coat, but they were out in full force last weekend in Paris, France.
I was there for the 16th iteration of Saut Hermès, an internationally-renowned show-jumping competition that takes place inside the Beaux-Arts-style Grand Palais. It is a meeting of beautiful minds: the luxury maison started life as a high-end harness and bridle workshop catering to European noblemen; the cage-like building staged equestrian events underneath its gloriously-domed roof from 1901 until the mid 1950s. The subterranean visitor facilities were once stables.
Other sports have taken centre stage at the Grand Palais too, including the 2024 Olympic fencing and taekwondo competitions. And in December 1903, it was where President Émile Loubet congratulated the first-ever winner of the Tour de France, Maurice Garin.
Hermès still crafts elegant equipment for customers and their trusty steeds and partner riders — who are integral to product development — were the smartest in the arena. At present, a saddle takes more than 30 hours and is worked on by a single craftsperson revealed the director of the Equestrian Métier, Ugo Borao. It's not unheard of for saddles produced in the 1920s to reappear in the workshop for the lightest of repairs. Recently, a partner rider brought in his grandfather's saddle from the 1950s that's still used on an almost weekly basis.
Paris gallops into each season a couple of weeks ahead of London (they will soon be shrugging off those trench coats) and horses had to contend with Olympic-like bolts of sunshine streaming in from all angles.
Outside, spring was fast taking the reins and in the Tuileries Gardens, the flowerbeds were full of sculptural fritillaries, frothy English daisies and dramatic Black Beauty tulips.
It was a tantalising taste of what's to come, but until then here are some of my favourite photographs and videos from the weekend.
The Grand Palais' stables used to be accessed via a ramp. Nowadays, the approximately 110 horses are housed in temporary stables set up specifically for the event nearby.
'It's not just a symbol [for Hermès]... the horse was the first client of the house,' says Ugo.
The 2026 spring planting in the Tuileries was inspired by 'Michelangelo and Rodin: Living Bodies', an exhibition on view at the Musée du Louvre until July 20, 2026.
Julien Épaillard (1977) is a French rider who competed at the 2024 French Olympics. He placed second in the Class N°3 Prix Hermès Sellier CSI 5*.
'We are not looking for saddles that put riders into the right position. We are developing saddles that really get the rider closer to the horse. It's very important'
Ugo Borao
The first Hermès silk scarf (or carré) was introduced in 1937, on the brand's 100th anniversary. It takes about 18 months to two years to bring a new design to market, but a new saddle can take up to double that amount of time.
James Connors Smyth of Ireland takes a victory lap after winning the Class N°4 Les talents Hermès CSI U25.
Hermès packaging used to be cream and mustard colours, but, during the Second World War, supplier shortages meant that they had to use bright orange boxes. The now iconic shade was officially adopted in 1942.
'The location is impressive, but it also extremely linked to the horse itself. It's a five-star show, indoor, with a very outdoor light, a very specific light that really creates a feeling, an atmosphere, that you cannot find anywhere else in the world.'
Ugo Borao
'We have clients asking for specific details, specific stitching, specific stamping — and this is what is beautiful for the craftsmen too because it means that all of the saddles they work on that week is new.'
Ugo Borao
