The stylish surf shacks from which to explore Cornwall’s wild and ancient coastline

Hero hotel

Three Mile Beach

Cornwall, the land of saints, is divided into two different types of devotees or Kernowphiles: those that love the north with its beaches and surfing (my wife, Rachel’s, family) and those who prefer the south for its gardens and peace (me). It’s Padstow versus St Mawes. In November, Rachel drove a bit further down the A30 than normal to Gwithian Beach, as I took one of the most beautiful train journeys in Britain to St Erth, before we joined up to stay at Three Mile Beach. Here, at the toe end of Cornwall, both points of the compass are so close that you can walk from one side of the county to the other in an afternoon. There is no need for a north-south divide.

We stayed in one of the 19 beach huts with Tiger (a dog bed is supplied, as is just about everything else you could imagine you might need). Each hut has a New England-meets-Poldark feel, sumptuously kitted out with a woodburning stove, mini Everhot cooker and the types of natural products that put a big smile on Rachel’s face. Outside, in the tightly fenced, slightly claustrophobic courtyard is a hot tub, sauna and barbecue, where one evening we made pizzas from the kit left for us on arrival.

This is a place for a romantic escape, avoiding all the intrusion that hotels bring. You can, of course, order delicious food to be delivered or cook your own. It is the best of both worlds: you can have as much service or solitude as you like. There are surf schools to join or massages to enjoy for those seeking relaxation. Whatever your penchant, you will feel renewed by the peace and sea air.

A two-bedroom beach shack at Three Mile Beach costs £600 for a three-night stay. Visit their website for more information and to book.

Need to know

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There was no view of the sea from our room, which was a great shame, as the sea is so close that we could hear it. It is, however, a paradise for children and dogs. There are wonderful walks — the hotel lies on the South West Coast Path — in every direction from the hotel. You could spend the whole week setting off in different directions and never repeat a step. The hotel provides an exceptionally well-produced book listing all the local activities and directions. There is also the possibility of being picked up by the staff from a nearby station, but, to get the best out of a stay here, you really need a car.

The area has a proud mining heritage; tin and copper were dug from the earth. There is no mining today, but the remnants of this once-great industry are still visible as chimneys rising above the abandoned sunken shafts. There are Bronze Age remains to be found in the sand dunes and ancient Celtic chapels around the village of Gwithian; nature reserves abound for ornithologists — guillemots, razorbills and cormorants nest locally — and the striking Godrevy Light-house that inspired Virginia Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse stands proud at the eastern end of the beach. If you are very lucky, you may see dolphins in the bay; you are almost guaranteed to see seals.

Where to eat

Cafés abound in the area, but we particularly enjoyed Godrevy Café after a morning walk for breakfast. Lots of things are home-made, including the lemon curd. Go upstairs for the best views of the sea and choose the bacon sandwich.

You cannot better Carbis Bay Hotel for a full-on, Cornish afternoon tea with panoramic views of St Ives Bay and we enjoyed the simple, fresh, cheerful pub food at The Old Forge, Lelant.

What to do while you’re there

• Surf The sea here is good for all abilities. When we were there, the waves, pulled inexorably bigger by the full moon, lured many locals from their beds at dawn
• Walk There’s a truly exceptional offering of beach walks on golden sand, historic walks around the old tin and copper mines and pub treks, all while taking in the freshest air and admiring the wildlife, from murmurations of starlings to singing oystercatchers
• St Ives Founded in the 5th century by an Irish monk, the pretty town (above) has a rich history of fishing, mining and, more recently, art, with artists drawn to the particular light reflected from the water onto the sands. Visit Tate and the Barbara Hepworth Museum
• Visit The Lizard, the southernmost point of the British mainland; Mousehole for cobbled streets, its harbour and charming granite cottages; The Minack for its world-famous open-air theatre built into the cliffside; and the tidal island St Michael’s Mount, the English counterpart of Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy