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Evolving from more basic fortifications like hill forts, castles first appeared in Europe around the 9th century. William the Conqueror started building them in Britain after the Norman Conquest, and over the following 150 years the Normans built more than 1000 in England and Wales, first from wood and later using stone.
It wasn’t until the 12th century that castles began to be built in Scotland and Northern Ireland, and luckily for us endless ancient skirmishes means that today the UK is simply brimming with beautiful castles. Fortunately, some of them are available as holiday accommodation, either converted into characterful hotels or as self-catering holiday homes.
The opportunity to wander the beautiful courtyards and idyllic surroundings of a stunning castle steeped in history makes for a perfect romantic break, and a family holiday at an historic fortress is hard to beat too, where children can run riot, revelling in life as a medieval lord or lady.
Northern Ireland
Crom Castle, Co Fermanagh
The castle is owned today by John Crichton, the 7th Earl Erne.
When, some years ago, I stayed in the west wing of this magnificent fairytale castle built in 1840, Henry Crichton, 6th Earl Erne (who is sadly no longer with us), and his wife, Countess Erne, dropped in for tea. This is the kind of experience you don’t get while staying at a Travelodge.
The estate is now managed by the National Trust, and the castle owned by John Crichton, the 7th Earl Erne. Once the family owned far more land. I remember asking John’s father how big the estate used to be. ‘It extended almost to Dublin at one point,’ he replied, rather matter-of-factly. He may have been joking somewhat, but in the late 19th century his family was certainly one of the biggest landowners in Ireland.
Crom Estate is stunningly beautiful and unspoilt. You can walk in complete tranquility through 1,900 acres of rolling parkland, oak woodland and along the shores of Lough Erne past numerous fine old buildings and ruins, including the original castle dating from 1611, now a ruin. Or, you can jump on a boat and explore the islands on the lake. The Estate was also a location for the BBC television series Blandings, based on the works of P.G. Wodehouse.
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The castle is luxurious and adorned with antique furniture and pictures, including imposing oil paintings of Erne ancestors. The west wing sleeps up to 12 people and the entire property can be rented, and those without considerably large wallets can also rent cottages from the National Trust on the Estate, and camp in the grounds.
For Crom Castle stays see Loyd and Townsend Rose’s and National Trust Holidays’ website.
Scotland
Castle Fraser, Aberdeenshire
Much of Castle Fraser retains many original features, such as its medieval Great Hall.
Built between 1575 and 1636, but with parts dating back to the 1450s, Castle Fraser — one of Scotland’s largest tower houses — is an excellent example of Scottish Baronial architecture.
You can stay in its two-bedroom apartment in the east wing overlooking the grounds and castle courtyard. However, apart from the domed ceiling, the modern and rather plain interior design means that there are not many clues as to its history.
Luckily, much of the castle elsewhere (open to the public) retains many original features. There is a medieval Great Hall and elegant Victorian bedrooms installed with four-posters, and quirky features such as hidden trapdoors and secret staircases. There are numerous intricately-carved stone armorial crests, family treasures and portraits, and if you climb the round tower you are rewarded with wonderful views.
The extensive grounds include a traditional walled garden and estate trails where it is possible to spot red squirrels, roe deer, buzzards and dragonflies.
For Castle Fraser stays see the National Trust for Scotland’s website.
Bothwick Castle, Lothian
Impressive original features abound in Bothwick Castle, including stone vaulted ceilings.
Built in 1430 and situated just 12 miles from Edinburgh in the heart of the beautiful Midlothian countryside, Borthwick was the refuge of Mary Queen of Scots in 1567, and Sir Walter Scott also visited. It still bears the scars of being besieged by Oliver Cromwell, its magnificent twin towers standing 100 feet high from dungeons to battlements.
The elegantly-proportioned State Room boasts beautifully arched windows and tapestries and guests can dine in the candlelit Great Hall. Impressive original features abound, including stone vaulted ceilings, spiral staircases, chandeliers, large medieval chimney breasts and magnificent medieval fireplaces.
The very comfortable bedrooms have walls of exposed stone or wood panelling and are decked out with luxurious fabrics, carved-oak beds and antique furniture. One has a medieval ceiling mural, another a painting by Uccello of the Battle of San Romano, one of the earliest examples of the use of perspective in Renaissance art.
For Borthwick Castle stays see Celtic Castles’ website.
Saddell Castle, Argyll and Bute
Saddell Castle has accommodation for eight people sits right on the beach.
This splendid 16th century four-storey tower house with comfortable accommodation for eight people sits right on the beach, on the sheltered, western side of the Mull of Kintyre and facing the Killbrannan Sound and Isle of Arran. Probably completed in around 1612, it has some fine touches such as a decorated ceiling, panelling, carved stone panels, and a battlemented wall-walk around the roof. The windows embedded in the thick stone walls look out onto fabulous countryside and Saddell Bay, where sea birds, otters and even basking sharks can be seen near the deserted beach.
For Saddell Castle stays see The Landmark Trust’s website.
Wales
Ruthin Castle, Denbighshire
Ruthin Castle has had a dramatic history, including withstanding an 11-week siege during the Civil War.
The first documented castle on this site in the Vale of Clwyd was built for Edward I in 1277 but was destroyed during the English Civil War in 1646. Part of the ruins were incorporated into the large castellated mansion built in its place in the mid-19th century that exists today.
Ruthin Castle has had a dramatic history, including withstanding an 11-week siege during the Civil War, and the imprisonment and torture of the Welsh poet Richard Gwyn, who was hanged, drawn and quartered in 1584. In Edwardian times visitors included the Prince of Wales, actress Lillie Langtry, and Lady Randolph Churchill.
Some striking features remain, such as its medieval sandstone-dressed masonry capped by Victorian rough-cut limestone, and a huge Victorian stone carved fireplace. It is now a hotel set within gardens and sprawling woodland, and although its rooms do not convey a medieval atmosphere, occasional medieval banquets are held where guests can quaff wine from pewter goblets and mead from clay cups and eat in medieval style with a dagger.
For Ruthin Castle stays see the castle’s website.
England
Leeds Castle, Kent
Leeds Castle is a major historical tourist attraction and receives more than 600,000 visitors each year.
Situated five miles southeast of Maidstone, Leeds Castle has a rich history, with residents and owners including Edward I and II, Henry VIII, and six queens including Eleanor, Isabella and Catherine of Aragon. In the 1920s it became a glamorous country house retreat for Anglo-American heiress Lady Olive Baillie, who hosted stars like Charlie Chaplin, Errol Flynn and Cary Grant.
The castle is now a major historical tourist attraction and receives more than 600,000 visitors each year. As well as some pretty walks, there are numerous attractions in the extensive grounds including a challenging maze and underground grotto (dating from the 1980s), a birds of prey centre and a children’s play areas.
It has had many changes over the years. Initially a manor house listed in the Domesday Survey of 1086, the first stone castle was built in 1119, later enlarged and improved, becoming a Tudor palace. In 1823 a new castle was built in Tudor style because the original was in such a ruined condition. It is possible to stay in a variety of castle bedrooms and buildings on the estate.
For Leeds Castle stays see their website.
Thornbury Castle, Gloucestershire
Thornbury Castle now has a fine restaurant and 26 extremely comfortable bedchambers.
When Thornbury Castle was completed in 1521, Henry VIII promptly beheaded its owner, Edward Stafford, the 3rd Duke of Buckingham, and took ownership. He stayed here with Ann Boleyn, the castle then passing through the hands of his children, Edward VI and Mary I, once he had died.
Surrounded by walled Tudor gardens with views over the River Severn into Gloucestershire and Wales, it has thankfully been upgraded since those times and now has a fine restaurant and 26 extremely comfortable bedchambers, one having the largest four-poster bed in Britain, at an impressive 10 feet wide.
Numerous original features such as four-foot walls with crenellations, arrow slits and ornate oriel windows, mighty oak-panelled doors and grand stone Tudor fireplaces feature throughout.
For Thornbury Castle stays see their website.
Kingswear Castle, Devon
Kingswear Castle was constructed using slate rubble, with detailing using red sandstone ashlar.
This pretty artillery fort built to defend the harbour at the mouth of the River Dart at Dartmouth sleeps four. Perched on the water’s edge, from the windows you can look across to Dartmouth or down the craggy coast and pine forests, or simply watch the boats go by. At night you can stand on the battlements watching the stars. The square three-storey tower is owned by The Landmark Trust, which has painstakingly restored the castle’s ground floor to look as it did when it was completed in 1502.
The castle was constructed using slate rubble, with detailing using red sandstone ashlar. Numerous original features, both Tudor and from the Victorian renovation, remain, such as exposed stone walls and elegant wooden doors.
The accommodation is smart but unfussy. One bedroom is located 50 feet away in a blockhouse built in World War II, ideal if you have fractious kids or troublesome guests.
For Kingswear Castle stays see The Landmark Trust’s website.
Chillingham Castle, Northumberland
One room at Chillingham Castle has works by Victorian painter Sir Edwin Landseer, who was a frequent visitor to the castle.
Nestled in beautiful, secluded countryside near the attractive rural town of Wooler, this remarkable castle, complete with dungeons, state rooms, a banqueting hall and torture chamber, has been in the same family, the Earl Greys and their relations, since 1246.
You can tour the castle or stay in one of the apartments from April to November. Apartments have some impressive antiques, and one is situated at the top of a look-out tower, another has a panelled and beamed Elizabethan long gallery, and a further room has works by Victorian painter Sir Edwin Landseer, a frequent visitor to the castle.
There's a tea room, lawns, gardens and wonderful woodland too. Chillingham Park contains the world’s only surviving true wild herd of cattle, which once roamed the forests of Britain.
For Chillingham Castle stays see their website.
Snape Castle, North Yorkshire
It is possible to stay in cottage-style accommodation in the undercroft beneath Snape Castle’s 15th century chapel.
Three miles from pleasant market town Bedale, this 15th century castle has, unsurprisingly, a rich history. Previous residents include Queen Anne and in January 1537, a mob stormed the castle and took Catherine Parr, Henry VIII's sixth wife, and her two stepchildren hostage.
Although you can admire its imposing structure, the castle itself is closed to the public. However, it is possible to stay in cottage-style accommodation in the undercroft beneath the castle’s 15th century chapel. It is comfortable rather than luxurious and features a spacious open plan sitting, dining and well-equipped kitchen area.
For Snape Castle stays see Sykes Holiday Cottage’s website.
Ben West has written for many publications and websites, from The Times to The New York Times, the New Statesman to The Spectator. His play, Gertrude’s Secret, was performed at theatres around the UK for three years. He also writes the Substack, Travel: the inside track
