Diamonds are a man’s best friend

The history of men’s jewellery dates back to ancient times, with examples found in the adornments of Chinese emperors, Indian maharajas, Mayan kings, and Egyptian pharaohs. In ancient Egypt, the first signet rings were recorded to officiate letters and documents, with the Romans also adopting the accessory. Men’s jewellery expanded during the Renaissance and Baroque eras, and in the 20th century, Cartier created a platinum necklace with thousands of diamonds for Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, the Maison’s largest ever single commission.

Fast forward to today and renowned jewellers Hancocks is seeing a significant increase in men buying jewellery for themselves, from traditional to more contemporary pieces. The company is famed for its signet rings, having made Edward VII’s signet ring when he was Prince of Wales.

From left to right: handcrafted one-of-a-kind gypsy-set rings; Hancocks’s selection of hard-stone signet rings; Vintage Bulgari ‘Monete’ cufflinks.

Hancocks’ managing director, Guy Burton, has been taken aback at how signet rings have come back into fashion recently. ‘It’s gone up a lot recently. We make about 40 a month. About five years ago it was only 10 a year. There’s a lot of new blood coming into the market.’ Hancocks’ signet rings are die-struck and hand engraved, using the traditional technique of seal engraving, meaning that when the ring is pressed into softened wax to form the seal, the resulting impression reveals the correct image.

All of Hancocks’ signet rings are meticulously crafted in the UK and can be engraved with initials, family crests, or custom designs and each signet ring offers the wearer something personal and meaningful to don every day.

Men are turning to jewellery, especially signet rings, as a form of personal expression

An alternative to the signet, Hancocks’ range of exquisite gypsy set rings offer a masculine way to enjoy the company’s exceptional curation of gemstones. The gypsy ring design harks back to the days of highwaymen, when the Victorian upper classes would avoid ostentatious ring designs and set their gemstones in thick bands of gold to conceal their true wealth.

Today, these rings are admired for their subtle sophistication, allowing a large stone to be set in a bold surround yet remain understated. Hancocks’ selection features exceptional old-cut diamonds and gemstones, which sparkle intensely under glimmering candlelight.

As well as its own designs, Hancocks holds a carefully curated selection of jewels from the finest jewellery houses and craftsmen in the world, incorporating more than 250 years of jewellery design. Vintage men’s jewellery, cufflinks, antique brooches and signed gold chains and bracelets by the likes of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari form a collection that the discerning gentleman could not pass by.

Oxford oval seal engraved signet ring with its wax seal.

Hancocks’ Georgian townhouse on St. James’s Street is perfectly situated for those who enjoy the finer things in life, with antique dealers and auctioneers, the finest artisan crafts, from shirtmaking and millinery to cheese and wine, and London’s most renowned members clubs on the doorstep.

For further information, please telephone 020–7493 8904, or visit www.hancockslondon.com; www.hancockssignetrings.com

Hancocks Managing Director Guy Burton: ‘It’s inspiring to see more men embracing this aspect of their individuality’

Have you seen a rise in interest in jewellery for men?

Absolutely. We have observed a significant increase in interest among our male clients, who are expanding their jewellery choices beyond traditional items like cufflinks. Our gypsy set rings are particularly popular with men, as they offer a stylish way for men to appreciate the finest gemstones. Jewellery serves as a personal expression and it’s inspiring to see more men embracing this aspect of their individuality.

What pieces are you finding are most popular with male clients?

In addition to signet rings and our gem- set gypsy rings, distinctive vintage gold chains with unique link designs, and vintage signed zodiac pendants are particularly sought after, alongside brooches and lapel pins. In our experience, purchasing either our one-of-a-kind pieces, or those from our vintage and antique collections, gives individuals the confidence of owning something distinctive that nobody else in the room will be wearing.

What advice would you give to men who are new to wearing jewellery? Jewellery should be a source of joy and self-expression. My best advice is to choose pieces that resonate with your personal style and make you feel comfortable and confident. Additionally, when investing in fine jewellery, it’s important to buy from reputable sources. Having access to knowledgeable expertise can greatly enhance your experience and ensure you make informed choices.