Where to eat the best risotto alla Milanese in the city where it was created, you ask? An insider’s guide to Milan, for Salone del Mobile and beyond

For too long, Milan has not been the destination of choice for travellers to Italy, overlooked in favour of the more obviously beautiful cities of Venice, Florence and Rome.

Until now.

Thanks to a flurry of cool new openings, plus the Milano-Cortina Winter Olympics, which enjoyed record-breaking digital engagement, and viral fashion and design weeks, Milan is firmly on the map. In fact, those in the know will confirm that Milan is the most exciting city in Europe right now.

It is a city that gradually reveals its beauty. You might catch a glimpse of a secret garden behind the heavy wooden doors of a residential building as they swing open, or stumble upon a restaurant’s spectacular tree-lined terrace that you’d never know was there until you set foot inside. But once you start to look for it, you’ll soon find that Milan is the epitome of understated elegance — much like its residents.

Situated in the northern region of Lombardy, Milan is within easy reach of alpine regions for skiing and hiking, and the Lakes for al fresco lunches. The beaches of Liguria and the rolling hills of Piedmontese wine country are also a short drive away. Combine its strategic position with the city’s surplus of excellent restaurants, shops and museums, and you’ll quickly understand why flocks of expats are relocating to it.

With the annual Salone del Mobile Design Week starting today (April 21), I’m sharing a handful of my favourite places across the city I call home, together with some help from friends who love it as much as I do.

Where to stay

Mandarin Oriental

A quiet oasis in the very heart of the city (complete with its own secret garden), the Mandarin Oriental’s Milan outpost is set within a series of 18th century buildings that have been elegantly renovated.

It’s impossible not to feel calm when you sink into bed in one of the serene suites, and the gargantuan bathtubs are a treat for weary feet after a hard day of shopping in the nearby Montenapoleone shopping district.

For those in town for Design Week, check into the sumptuous Fornasetti suite for maximum bragging rights.

Vico Milano

Vico Milano is run by the charming Baccheschi Berti family, who also own the inimitable Castello di Vicarello in Tuscany. Combining rustic Tuscan touches with Milanese contemporary design, this is a seriously Instagrammable hotel.

There are just a handful of suites, so staying at Vico feels like you’re spending the night at a friend’s eclectic private house. If I ever get round to renovating my bathrooms, the inspiration will come from here.

Portrait Hotel

The Ferragamo dynasty opened their first hotel in Milan in 2022 to much fanfare — and the chatter is yet to die down.

The 16th-century, former Archiepiscopal Seminary occupies a vast, historic piazza surrounded by ancient cloisters. There are 73 suites, multiple restaurants and the award-winning The Longevity Spa. Don’t miss the spectacular swimming pool with its vaulted ceilings and majestic granite columns.

Where to eat

Milan takes its food very seriously, from traditional trattorias to an ever-increasing number of contemporary eateries.

The only trouble you’ll have is choosing where to go first…

La Latteria

Have you even been to Milan if you haven’t joined the well-dressed queue outside La Latteria?

When owners Maria and Artuso Maggi decided to close the restaurant after 40 years, the uproar from the fashion crowd was epic (we observed a full year of gastronomic mourning). Thankfully, the Loro Piana family stepped in to preserve the beloved eatery’s iconic status and La Latteria is now officially back in business — with the Maggi family still at the helm.

There are seven tables and a strict no bookings policy, so you’ll need to drop everything and get in line in order to try the famous lemon and chilli spaghetti.

Pasticceria Cucchi

The chicest place for breakfast and people watching in the city. It’s also my go-to place for an aperitivo after work. If you’re travelling towards the tail end of the year, don’t miss out on their artisanal panettone.

A Santa Lucia

A proper old-school trattoria with endless character serving no nonsense, traditional dishes. Duncan Campbell, the London-based artist, designer and co-founder of design atelier Campbell-Rey, confesses that he loves to eat at A Santa Lucia when he’s in Milan ‘because they serve all day, which is very rare in Italy.’

Contraste

If you’re in the market for a once-in-a-lifetime special dinner, look no further than Contraste: the finest fine-dining option Milan has to offer.

A meal here is an entirely unique experience, from the restaurant’s exuberantly-hued interiors and ultra-charming staff to, of course, the world-class food. Uruguayan chef and co-owner Matias Perdomo’s playful creativity is spellbinding; trompe d’oeuils are his forte. Look out for the lasagne cleverly disguised as a doughnut. Frankly, I’m surprised it only has one Michelin star.

Younique Café

The fashion cafe is having a moment (Prada in Harrods, Anya Hindmarch in Belgravia, Lacoste in Monte-Carlo, Ralph Lauren in New York), and the recently-opened Younique Café by Golden Goose is Milan’s cool crowd’s favourite for everything from brunch to sundowners. Stop by for punchy cocktails and live DJ sets every Thursday evening.

Ratanà

Where to eat the best risotto alla Milanese in the city where it was created, you ask? Ratanà. No competition.

De Santis

This tiny sandwich shop on Milan’s beautiful Corso Magenta has been churning out showstoppers since 1964. Order the Ronny, a parma ham, brie, mozzarella and white truffle baguette, and thank me later.

Da Giacomo

Via Sottocorno in the trendy east of the city is Da Giacomo’s empire with multiple eateries by the group jostling for space on one street. They all serve stellar food, but splash out at the original upmarket Ristorante. Alternatively, try my favourite, Rosticceria, which serves the type of home-cooked food I could eat every day of my life. You’ll often find me in there scoffing delectable homemade meatballs.

Rovello 18

‘One of my favourite restaurants in Milan is Rovello 18,’ says Michelin-starred chef Matias Perdomo. ‘I always feel at home there, and chef Michele De Liguoro’s cooking is simple and perfectly executed, with a warm, welcoming atmosphere.’

Seta

This understated yet hugely popular restaurant is hidden inside the Mandarin Oriental and has two Michelin stars.

When chef Antonio Guida removed his iconic raspberry risotto from the menu, to make room for new inventions, outraged diners demanded its return and so it’s been the restaurant’s signature for a decade. Sounds bizarre; tastes fantastic — trust me on this one.

Where to drink

Camparino in Galleria

Brave the crowds in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan’s bustling and grandiose glass-domed shopping arcade) for the original Campari cocktail. It doesn’t get more classic than this.

Bar Paradiso

A trendy wine bar in the south east of Milan, with seriously scrumptious food to match.

Bar Basso

No visit to Milan would be complete without an aperitivo at the iconic Bar Basso bar, where the Negroni sbagliato (my go-to drink) was invented by accident in the 1970s.

What to do (according to the locals)

‘Villa Necchi Campiglio, of course,’ says Duncan Campbell, ‘followed by a peek inside the Pinacoteca di Brera art museum then lunch at Trattoria Torre di Pisa or Antica Trattoria della Pesa.’

‘I’m very drawn to the antique markets in Milan,’ says the chef and owner of Contraste, Matias Perdomo. ‘I often visit the Brera market and the antiques market along the Navigli canals.’

Bea Bongiasca, the jewellery designer whose pieces adorn the chicest people in Milan and beyond, recommends exploring the city on foot: ‘If it’s nice out, I stay outdoors as much as possible, usually heading to Parco Sempione near my home, often stopping by the Triennale Milano, one of my favorite museums, especially now that its library is open to the public. Later, I’ll head to Via Paolo Sarpi for lunch. If the weather isn’t great, I’ll maybe go to the cinema or spend the day at a cute spa, like the Armani Hotel or Palazzo Parigi.’

‘A stroll to the market in Via Fauchè is one of the Milanese local’s secrets for excellent fresh fish to cook at home,’ says Enrico Casati, co-founder of Milanese brand Velasca. ‘In the afternoon, I take my children to Parco Sempione or the park in City Life before a quick hello at our original Velasca store at the Arco della Pace. Then I might head for an aperitivo at Lom Dopolavoro, which has a nice garden for warmer evenings.’

Where to shop

Milan has an excellent selection of independent boutiques and markets, and I often spend my weekends perusing the following:

• Minina For ultra-chic contemporary womenswear
• Velasca For a pair of perfect handmade Italian leather loafers
• Cavalli e Nastri For designer vintage pieces
• Peck For a large jar of their homemade mayonnaise
• Mazzolari For heavenly scents and hair products
• Choses: for womenswear and excellent straw beach bags
• Mercato di Wagner For top quality groceries (my olive addiction is fuelled by the charming husband and wife couple who sell me green Nocellara olives by the kilo)
• Bonvini 1909 For beautiful stationary in a historic Milanese boutique