Tickled pink: Jewellery designers are united in their love for colourful gemstones

Jewellery designers are always on the look out for inspiration to inform their designs. A horse bit perhaps, or a rare hothouse flower? Or, maybe, a fan-shaped sea shell from far-away shores. Last year, Jessica McCormack was drawn to mythical sea creatures, including Scotland’s folklore sea spirits; Brazilian jewellery designer Fernando Jorge thought about late discothèque nights while he was designing his Vertex collection of baguette diamond-set pieces. The thing that unites them? Colourful gems that span the rainbow, from rubies and fancy pink diamonds, to opals (a favourite of Victoire de Castellane of Dior Joaillerie and Horlogerie).

Dries Ciel on chrome tourmaline

Based in Antwerp, independent designer Dries Ciel is preparing for his first showing at specialist fair TEFAF in Maastricht 2026. Dries — a former dancer — designs pieces that are geometric and angular, yet still molded to the human form. Each material he casts or sets is traceable.

‘My favourite gemstone to work with today is chrome tourmaline,’ he says. The gem is the focal point of his yellow gold Sphinx ring. Further details are provided courtesy of white diamonds and green enamel. ‘Chrome tourmaline is an exceptionally rare variety of tourmaline, prized for its vivid emerald-like green colour caused by chromium and vanadium,’ he explains. ‘It is found almost exclusively in small, depleted deposits in Tanzania, making supply extremely limited.’ His ring features a sizable six-carat specimen. ‘Gem-quality stones, especially those above two carats, are scarce due to size, inclusions and cutting challenges. Its natural, typically untreated state and irregular availability make chrome tourmaline a true collector’s gemstone.’

Honor Wainwright of Boodles on pink diamonds

‘Pink diamonds are incredibly beautiful… and extraordinarily rare,’ says Honour. ‘Fewer than 0.01% of all diamonds are pink, and what I find so special about them is that no one really knows why they are pink — they are quite literally a gift from Nature.’

The Petal ring, set with a 2.25-carat fancy pink, cushion-cut diamond was made, last year, by Boodles, the jeweller that Honour’s family has helmed for more than six generations.

‘I also think it’s amazing that they were formed more than 1.6 billion years ago, which is why natural diamonds feel so special. Boodles is known globally for being the home of pink diamonds and they have become synonymous with who we are, reflecting not only our brand colour but also what we aspire to be: fun, unique and exceptional.’

Boodles chose to set the Petal ring’s pink diamond in platinum and single mine origin rose gold. ‘The main stone [there are additional diamonds] is encircled by exceptionally rare, brilliant-cut pink diamonds from the now-closed Argyle Mine in Australia,’ says Honour.

Jeremy Morris of David Morris on paraiba tourmaline

‘This 9.58-carat pear cut paraiba-set ring is my favourite colourful piece,’ says Jeremy Morris, the CEO and creative director of British brand David Morris.

‘It’s bold, but very easy to wear — light and comfortable. Stones this size usually have deep bellies and can be quite chunky, but this one sits beautifully on the finger, with lovely proportions.’

The paraiba ring is testament to the expertise of the David Morris artisans who deliberately exposed the back of the centre namesake stone so as not to cloud its colour and clarity. ‘[It has a] hue that instantly reminds me of the bottom of a swimming pool in Mykonos… It’s a ring that’s as much about technical brilliance as it is about sheer beauty,’ says Jeremy.

Jean Ghika of Bonhams on a Colombian emerald

‘A beautiful and rare step-cut emerald weighing 10.37 carats of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement,’ says Jean Ghika, the global jewellery director of auction house Bonhams, recalling her favourite colourful gem to sell at auction in 2025. ‘Emeralds displaying no clarity enhancement are exceptionally rare, and examples exceeding 10 carats place such stones in an entirely different category. The remarkable colour of this emerald, combined with its untreated state and impressive size, elevated it to one of the most sought-after gems for collectors and connoisseurs alike.’

Annoushka Ducas on andalusite

‘Andalusite is a gemstone I find endlessly fascinating,’ says Annoushka Ducas. ‘Its warm amber hues and natural greens shift beautifully in the light, revealing a subtle, ever-changing interplay of colour. No two stones are ever the same.’

For her Flight collection of fine jewellery, Annoushka used andalusites sourced from her personal hoard of gems. ‘They are deeply personal pieces, created using gemstones from my own collection, and designed to celebrate individuality and craftsmanship.’

Sandra Cronan on yellow diamonds

Sandra Cronan is a specialist in antique and vintage jewellery. Her standout piece of 2025 was an Art Deco brooch featuring a central marquise-cut yellow diamond surrounded by baguette diamonds, a further 10 marquise-cut yellow diamonds and more brilliant-cut diamonds — to trap and reflect light.

The brooch, cast from platinum, was finished in the USA around 1925. It’s exceptional pieces such as these that Sandra displays in her treasure chest cabinets at London’s Dover Street Market. ‘It stands out because yellow diamonds are so rare, and the fancy yellow-orange colour of these particular ones is very vivid! To find 10 similar yellow diamonds must have been very hard.'